Didn't know if I posted this. Spec Clutches for the HHR SS
#11
Guys, check with Aaron at TurboTech Racing. He will likely recommend the SPEC Stage 3+, which has not only more holding power, but a full-face disc that makes for better streetability. Puck discs can be "grabby" for everyday driving.
I've had a Stage 3+ in my 2.4 a while now and am very happy with it. Very small increase in pedal effort, too, which is great for the stop and go city traffic.
Installed myself. Not a fun job, but not that bad either. Having the GM tech docs for the job, I did find that they recommended doing things that added more work and were not really necessary, like pulling the steering rack, for example. And, it's one of those jobs that you just know you could do in 1/2 the time the next time, but hope you don't have to!!
I've had a Stage 3+ in my 2.4 a while now and am very happy with it. Very small increase in pedal effort, too, which is great for the stop and go city traffic.
Installed myself. Not a fun job, but not that bad either. Having the GM tech docs for the job, I did find that they recommended doing things that added more work and were not really necessary, like pulling the steering rack, for example. And, it's one of those jobs that you just know you could do in 1/2 the time the next time, but hope you don't have to!!
#13
Diff be changed at same time?
If the drive train is out for a clutch change can the diff be changed or does it require a complete teardown of the trans to get at it? Does anyone offer a diff that would fit?
Inquiring minds need to know
Inquiring minds need to know
#15
#16
which one are they using and are they beating them to death? All Clutches are going to fail if thats the case. I've heard nothing but greatness from these clutches. Hays clutches are good as well from what I've seen. Most of us with minor mods will be over the limits of the stock clutch so this mod is in order. really not sure what the Cobalt guys would be doing to kill a clutch unless "Can't Find It? Grind It"
#18
http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showt...highlight=spec
http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showt...highlight=spec
http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showt...highlight=spec
http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showt...highlight=spec
here are just a few, i would go with exedy or stock , i have 250 whp and have 50k on my clutch, i leaned stick on this car and taught 5 others, and it has about 30 track passes on it as well. Besides you guys have stronger clutches in your stock cars then i do that are rated for 300hp. So unless your going big power i say stock clutch.
http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showt...highlight=spec
http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showt...highlight=spec
http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showt...highlight=spec
here are just a few, i would go with exedy or stock , i have 250 whp and have 50k on my clutch, i leaned stick on this car and taught 5 others, and it has about 30 track passes on it as well. Besides you guys have stronger clutches in your stock cars then i do that are rated for 300hp. So unless your going big power i say stock clutch.
#19
At 300ish to the wheels (and 350is torque), the stock clutches are starting to slip in the midrange and glaze up. You can feel them come loose just driving regular highway speeds and doing a 4th gear roll-on. Most of the tunes will get you to this power level with no additions. I'm planning a rather large snail and looking to get into the 450 range.
At that level, the stock clutch is going to run for its life.
At that level, the stock clutch is going to run for its life.