GM Performance Parts Turbo Upgrade Kit
#262
The boat guys do like to discuss soldered vs crimped also http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...soldering.html
Personally, I like a solder joint with good heat shrink which will prevent concentration of bending stress at the transition from the rigid solder to the copper strands (which is where the fatigue failure occurs). Each to his own. I am not good at making consistant crimps, but I am also told part of that is the crappy quality of most crimp type connectors at the local auto parts compared to true marine grade crimp connectors.
Personally, I like a solder joint with good heat shrink which will prevent concentration of bending stress at the transition from the rigid solder to the copper strands (which is where the fatigue failure occurs). Each to his own. I am not good at making consistant crimps, but I am also told part of that is the crappy quality of most crimp type connectors at the local auto parts compared to true marine grade crimp connectors.
#263
ChevyMgr
I don't feel you are part of any problem. In fact you are an excellent resource here. Not sure why you feel that because someone happens to disagree with you on a few issues that things are going bad. In fact, until someone started with his same old personal attack crap this conversation was fine.
There are right and wrong ways to disagree and calling people an ass is never the right way. Not sure why the moderators allow that sort of thing but discussing going fast is taboo!
I don't feel you are part of any problem. In fact you are an excellent resource here. Not sure why you feel that because someone happens to disagree with you on a few issues that things are going bad. In fact, until someone started with his same old personal attack crap this conversation was fine.
There are right and wrong ways to disagree and calling people an ass is never the right way. Not sure why the moderators allow that sort of thing but discussing going fast is taboo!
#264
I notice a lot of the NASA builders moonlight at GM repair facilities. I'm sure they use the exact same techniques as well. Amazing what you can do with a $39.99 Radio Shack soldering gun.
#265
The last few pages of posts have strayed from the original intent of this thread and are starting to lean towards flaming each other. If you would like to continue this discussion then please take it PM.
#266
#269
I collected this from this and other forums. It is code sets or issues with the install:
No Start – Most likely cause is wires #1 & #3 crossed on the Inlet Duct TMAP sensor.
P2227 Code Set - 1. Reflash not completed correctly. 2. Car was driven on new sensors without the reflash. (Takes 2 key cycles to set)
Sensor contacts AC line HHR – bend ac line slightly.
P0236 Code set – Only one sensor replaced. On HHR SS’s the TMAP in the inlet duct is very hard to access and there is a report of that sensor not being installed at all.
No Start – Most likely cause is wires #1 & #3 crossed on the Inlet Duct TMAP sensor.
P2227 Code Set - 1. Reflash not completed correctly. 2. Car was driven on new sensors without the reflash. (Takes 2 key cycles to set)
Sensor contacts AC line HHR – bend ac line slightly.
P0236 Code set – Only one sensor replaced. On HHR SS’s the TMAP in the inlet duct is very hard to access and there is a report of that sensor not being installed at all.
#270
Thanks
I'm starting to wonder if the kit is worth the hit in dependability.
For those whose stage 1 kits have been installed correctly do you have any regrets about it. I guess since you can't test drive one with a kit it's hard to know what to expect as far as engine noise, or reliability issues.
For those whose stage 1 kits have been installed correctly do you have any regrets about it. I guess since you can't test drive one with a kit it's hard to know what to expect as far as engine noise, or reliability issues.