stg 1 concern
10-27-2010, 04:50 PM
#4
Member
Join Date: 09-29-2009
Location: Pasco, WA.
Posts: 45
Mine took 3 trips to get it right. After the first trip, the engine performed quite well. About three days later, the previously scheduled brake repair was performed, and when I got the car back, most of the Stg.1 extra boost was gone. Third trip fixed that, but it was slightly less peak boost than before. I could tell the difference by SOTP, as well as the boost gauge, but the difference was minor, so I decided to let it ride for the time being. I've read about this ''Trifecta" tune, but I know nothing about it, and it may be worth doing.
10-30-2010, 12:34 PM
#6
Premium Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 10-09-2010
Location: Tacoma
Posts: 14,420
thanks for the feed back they got it and they soldered the top conections so maybe I wont have that problem later WOW WHAT A DIFFERENCE !!!!!!! SMOKED those MXM4s all the way over to discount tire traded them in on conti DWS extreme contacts 245x40 we are racing now
Last edited by SS fan; 10-30-2010 at 12:42 PM. Reason: add pic
10-30-2010, 03:29 PM
#7
Platinum Member
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,037
10-31-2010, 09:58 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-10-2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 314
I had to drive a bit out of my way to get a dealer to install it but it is worth it. Just make sure they do a real good job connecting the wires. Just had mine in the shop and a couple of the wires were corroded through. I asked them to solder them but they said that they would do that only if necessary. Got it back now and so far so good.
Do you have an automatic or manual? I have an automatic and even with that there is a difference in how smooth the acceleration is and overall power. Worth the money IMO.
Do you have an automatic or manual? I have an automatic and even with that there is a difference in how smooth the acceleration is and overall power. Worth the money IMO.
11-25-2010, 09:26 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: 11-15-2008
Location: Newburgh, NY
Posts: 1,599
I have over 20,000 trouble free miles on my HHR since the Turbo Upgrade Kit was installed. I did the upgrade at 7,000 miles, now I have about 28,000. This was over 1.5 years ago.
Due to paranoia resulting from advice on this site from owners who experienced poor installation practices from dealers who were unfamiliar with the process, I did some intense research as well as "interviewing" the dealer service departments in order to assess their competancy. I found one that had already done a few HHRs, but many Cobalts and Solstices.
Two things are crucial:
1) Good connectivity (not just electrical conduction during the installation, but to insure that they do not eventually corrode if the factory connectors or field soldering is exposed to moisture).
2) To protect the wiring from eventual abrasion.
In regard to the connectors, I specifically asked if the service department that I ended up using if they knew what the J-38125 terminal repair kit was. Without going into detail, a tech that happened to be at the counter said something to the effect that "yeah, we have the proper dies and use the torch to seal the connections". I had also asked if they were aware of the clearance requirement between the lower TMAP sensor and the A/C piping. They said that they would take care of it. And they did.
If the wiring is even very close to the piping, they can wear due to engine movement under hard acceleration, so this should be checked post-installation. You need to put the car on a jack to get far enough under to see it. It's on the pass side. I attached a photo (cell phone pic; sorry about the poor res) to give an idea of what to look for. The clearance between the white wiring and the piping (the obscured white object to the right) shows that there is adequate clearance which will not cause eventual abrasion. If the wiring touches the piping or is very close, carefully bend the piping to obtain adequate clearance. My dealer did this for me, so I didn't have to.
Due to paranoia resulting from advice on this site from owners who experienced poor installation practices from dealers who were unfamiliar with the process, I did some intense research as well as "interviewing" the dealer service departments in order to assess their competancy. I found one that had already done a few HHRs, but many Cobalts and Solstices.
Two things are crucial:
1) Good connectivity (not just electrical conduction during the installation, but to insure that they do not eventually corrode if the factory connectors or field soldering is exposed to moisture).
2) To protect the wiring from eventual abrasion.
In regard to the connectors, I specifically asked if the service department that I ended up using if they knew what the J-38125 terminal repair kit was. Without going into detail, a tech that happened to be at the counter said something to the effect that "yeah, we have the proper dies and use the torch to seal the connections". I had also asked if they were aware of the clearance requirement between the lower TMAP sensor and the A/C piping. They said that they would take care of it. And they did.
If the wiring is even very close to the piping, they can wear due to engine movement under hard acceleration, so this should be checked post-installation. You need to put the car on a jack to get far enough under to see it. It's on the pass side. I attached a photo (cell phone pic; sorry about the poor res) to give an idea of what to look for. The clearance between the white wiring and the piping (the obscured white object to the right) shows that there is adequate clearance which will not cause eventual abrasion. If the wiring touches the piping or is very close, carefully bend the piping to obtain adequate clearance. My dealer did this for me, so I didn't have to.
11-25-2010, 03:15 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-05-2008
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 5,464
I have over 20,000 trouble free miles on my HHR since the Turbo Upgrade Kit was installed. I did the upgrade at 7,000 miles, now I have about 28,000. This was over 1.5 years ago.
Due to paranoia resulting from advice on this site from owners who experienced poor installation practices from dealers who were unfamiliar with the process, I did some intense research as well as "interviewing" the dealer service departments in order to assess their competancy. I found one that had already done a few HHRs, but many Cobalts and Solstices.
Two things are crucial:
1) Good connectivity (not just electrical conduction during the installation, but to insure that they do not eventually corrode if the factory connectors or field soldering is exposed to moisture).
2) To protect the wiring from eventual abrasion.
In regard to the connectors, I specifically asked if the service department that I ended up using if they knew what the J-38125 terminal repair kit was. Without going into detail, a tech that happened to be at the counter said something to the effect that "yeah, we have the proper dies and use the torch to seal the connections". I had also asked if they were aware of the clearance requirement between the lower TMAP sensor and the A/C piping. They said that they would take care of it. And they did.
If the wiring is even very close to the piping, they can wear due to engine movement under hard acceleration, so this should be checked post-installation. You need to put the car on a jack to get far enough under to see it. It's on the pass side. I attached a photo (cell phone pic; sorry about the poor res) to give an idea of what to look for. The clearance between the white wiring and the piping (the obscured white object to the right) shows that there is adequate clearance which will not cause eventual abrasion. If the wiring touches the piping or is very close, carefully bend the piping to obtain adequate clearance. My dealer did this for me, so I didn't have to.
Due to paranoia resulting from advice on this site from owners who experienced poor installation practices from dealers who were unfamiliar with the process, I did some intense research as well as "interviewing" the dealer service departments in order to assess their competancy. I found one that had already done a few HHRs, but many Cobalts and Solstices.
Two things are crucial:
1) Good connectivity (not just electrical conduction during the installation, but to insure that they do not eventually corrode if the factory connectors or field soldering is exposed to moisture).
2) To protect the wiring from eventual abrasion.
In regard to the connectors, I specifically asked if the service department that I ended up using if they knew what the J-38125 terminal repair kit was. Without going into detail, a tech that happened to be at the counter said something to the effect that "yeah, we have the proper dies and use the torch to seal the connections". I had also asked if they were aware of the clearance requirement between the lower TMAP sensor and the A/C piping. They said that they would take care of it. And they did.
If the wiring is even very close to the piping, they can wear due to engine movement under hard acceleration, so this should be checked post-installation. You need to put the car on a jack to get far enough under to see it. It's on the pass side. I attached a photo (cell phone pic; sorry about the poor res) to give an idea of what to look for. The clearance between the white wiring and the piping (the obscured white object to the right) shows that there is adequate clearance which will not cause eventual abrasion. If the wiring touches the piping or is very close, carefully bend the piping to obtain adequate clearance. My dealer did this for me, so I didn't have to.
I suspect some who soldered may have problems down the road. I may work good now but if they did not protect the connection and support it it will carrode and crack. If you solder you still need to put a shrink sleeve on the connection. With only tape it can and will break the joint just from vibration long term.
The connections GM uses are fine if the tech uses the proper tools. They will connect and seal the connection well. But as we have seen here some were not done properly.
I too also worry about the lower Map hitting the AC pipe or AC compressor. After the kit is installed it is important to check this after a couple thousand miles. They will not be close with the car sitting still but the engne under a load in acceleration it can put the map right on either of these and do damage to the wires. It will short and overboost.
You either have to push the tube on more to the IC or take the bumper off and shim the IC forward about 1/8-1/4 inch. This solves the issue.
I am coming up on a year and a half myself with crimps and not an issue at all. My tech was a GM trained Turbo tech so he knew what he was doing. He also owned a Turbo Cobalt too so he knew the engine well.
GM trained Turbo techs will be easier to find soon. With the new 2.0 and 1.4 Turbo's that are out and with the Twin Turbo V6 coming most of GM new engines will be DI and Turbo'd.