Synthetic oil
08-19-2008, 05:37 PM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: 01-10-2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 681
Ok, I've done some more research. When I got my HHR, Amsoil did not list the GM spec 4718M. Their website claims their oil is recommended replacement for GM Spec 4718M. It is there in writing , for any legal types to see.I also found this quote in a chevy forum about "the list"
"That list is NOT all inclusive. That list is strictly for oils that specifically tested for the standard but it does not mean that any oil not on the list doesn't qualify. I also have seen that list many times( different dates )and they routinely have oils that meet it and are even certified not listed. Just a resource GM provides but by no means is it an all inclusive list. Also, as I have explained to you time and again, plus provided the statistical info to back up my point, an oil only needs to meet ANY standard or exceed it, not list it on the bottle, to qualify for warranty purposes under the Federal Law called the Magnuson-Moss act of 1974. Royal Purple exceeds the 6094M standard( + GM4718M is listed on the bottle if it makes you happy ), and is API certified. That is ALL that is required of you to fulfill your warranty obligations."
"That list is NOT all inclusive. That list is strictly for oils that specifically tested for the standard but it does not mean that any oil not on the list doesn't qualify. I also have seen that list many times( different dates )and they routinely have oils that meet it and are even certified not listed. Just a resource GM provides but by no means is it an all inclusive list. Also, as I have explained to you time and again, plus provided the statistical info to back up my point, an oil only needs to meet ANY standard or exceed it, not list it on the bottle, to qualify for warranty purposes under the Federal Law called the Magnuson-Moss act of 1974. Royal Purple exceeds the 6094M standard( + GM4718M is listed on the bottle if it makes you happy ), and is API certified. That is ALL that is required of you to fulfill your warranty obligations."
11-11-2008, 08:33 AM
#22
Member
Join Date: 02-17-2008
Location: minneapolis
Posts: 58
Just took Amsoil out after 7500 miles and one filter change at 5K. DIC showed 23% oil life remaining. Looked awfully dirty (I know you can't judge oil life visually). Switched back to Mobil 1, I'll see how it compares at the same mileage. Seems hard to justify the Amsoil price if I'm replacing it at the same interval as Mobil 1.
11-11-2008, 11:01 AM
#25
Member
Join Date: 08-07-2008
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 88
My dealer offered a years worth of free oil changes, but as I'm not in love with my dealer (new car delivered with issues they've not taken care of), I won't be bringing it back unless there's a problem with it.
As the manual (and everyone connected with GM) seems to feel you're OK following the recommendation of the oil life gauge, I figured they'd decline to actually do anything until the gauge reached "0" (or close to it). Its nice to see that others' dealers take care of their customers.
As the manual (and everyone connected with GM) seems to feel you're OK following the recommendation of the oil life gauge, I figured they'd decline to actually do anything until the gauge reached "0" (or close to it). Its nice to see that others' dealers take care of their customers.
11-12-2008, 01:00 AM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: 01-13-2008
Location: Washington State, where it rains
Posts: 4,708
Oil doesn't get dirty because of who or how its made..Oil gets dirty from blow by in the cylinders,dirty air cleaners,garbage in the eng because it wasn't cleaned properly and other trival things. What you MAY have discovered is that the oil "cleaned" your system out and that was the by-product.If you want to see consistantly "clean" oil,switch to LP Gas.There are no carbon by-products to dilute the oil.The only other thing that will change oil is the heat.
And syn oil is alot more tolerant to heat then mineral based oils.Just think back to the old Quakerstate oil days and the gummed up valve covers.( and its not totally from not keeping oil changes regular,its because QS used parrafin..thats wax for those who don't know,and wax does funny things in heat).Ran syn for most the 287k miles in my truck(motor changed since then,broke rocker arm)and on tear down the block had a slight tinge of brown coloration.Reg oil blocks tend to be blackish because of heat breakdown.Anyways, a good oil will clean a block out,so IF that was the first time you used syn oil,that could be the case,otherwise your cylinders may not be sealing properly( or any other thing else that ties into the oil system
)..as for Amsoil..its good schtuff!!And the 0-30 is great with turbos(believe it or not,thicker oils cause drag).You may actually see a milage increase running the lighter oils.As far as Factory recommendations...that was set up as a "compromise" of all oils under averaged use and climate conditions.That does not mean that another weight oil can not be used or get better results.For example..in extreme hot conditions, a heaverier oil may be better as its already "preheated" therefor not molases as it would,say,in Alaska.As with all things factory,its the best "all around" recomendations that suits "MOST" of the "AVERAGE" drivers.The only oils I've seen that are "REQUIRED" belong to the transmission groups as the seals and clutches are compatable to these oils, and another oil may deteriorate/swell them.
Anyways, as stated above,its your car,its your oil,run what YOU think is necessary or "COMFORTABLE" with.If anyone wishes to take the time to do a little research you'll better understand the science behind it and probably form a different opinion.Its quite an interesting read.
And syn oil is alot more tolerant to heat then mineral based oils.Just think back to the old Quakerstate oil days and the gummed up valve covers.( and its not totally from not keeping oil changes regular,its because QS used parrafin..thats wax for those who don't know,and wax does funny things in heat).Ran syn for most the 287k miles in my truck(motor changed since then,broke rocker arm)and on tear down the block had a slight tinge of brown coloration.Reg oil blocks tend to be blackish because of heat breakdown.Anyways, a good oil will clean a block out,so IF that was the first time you used syn oil,that could be the case,otherwise your cylinders may not be sealing properly( or any other thing else that ties into the oil system
)..as for Amsoil..its good schtuff!!And the 0-30 is great with turbos(believe it or not,thicker oils cause drag).You may actually see a milage increase running the lighter oils.As far as Factory recommendations...that was set up as a "compromise" of all oils under averaged use and climate conditions.That does not mean that another weight oil can not be used or get better results.For example..in extreme hot conditions, a heaverier oil may be better as its already "preheated" therefor not molases as it would,say,in Alaska.As with all things factory,its the best "all around" recomendations that suits "MOST" of the "AVERAGE" drivers.The only oils I've seen that are "REQUIRED" belong to the transmission groups as the seals and clutches are compatable to these oils, and another oil may deteriorate/swell them.
Anyways, as stated above,its your car,its your oil,run what YOU think is necessary or "COMFORTABLE" with.If anyone wishes to take the time to do a little research you'll better understand the science behind it and probably form a different opinion.Its quite an interesting read.
11-14-2008, 07:42 AM
#27
Member
Join Date: 02-17-2008
Location: minneapolis
Posts: 58
I know all that stuff, but something about dirty "looking" oil just makes me feel uncomfortable. I used the Amsoil "cleaner" to minimize the dirt from the engine getting into the oil, but I figured at 18K the engine could not be THAT dirty. I put syn. in my used Subaru, the oil cleaned out so much junk the first time I dumped it after 3K. Was better after that. I ran Mobil 1 in my Honda about 12K, stayed fairly clean. Different engines, who knows???
I'll see how the Mobil 1 does, may switch back to the Amsoil. I agree it's excellent oil, just not worth the money if Mobil 1 stays in THIS engine as long.
I researched oil and filter several weeks before putting in the Amsoil.
I'll see how the Mobil 1 does, may switch back to the Amsoil. I agree it's excellent oil, just not worth the money if Mobil 1 stays in THIS engine as long.
I researched oil and filter several weeks before putting in the Amsoil.
11-16-2008, 06:25 AM
#29
Member
Join Date: 02-17-2008
Location: minneapolis
Posts: 58
Did filter change at 5K and still "looked" dirty at the 7K mark. Hopefully the first Amsoil change cleaned out most of the gunk and the changes going forward will stay a bit cleaner.
The DIC would have run out at about 10K, would be happy if I could go to 10K with an oil change at 5K
The DIC would have run out at about 10K, would be happy if I could go to 10K with an oil change at 5K