2.4L Performance Tech 16 valve 172 hp EcoTec with 162 lb-ft of torque

2.4l acceleration question....

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Old 08-31-2008 | 12:11 AM
  #11  
meriquillo's Avatar
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From: Texas
Thanks i'll check the hoses for any leaks.

Originally Posted by Lone Ranger
Check the brake booster vacuum hose is securely connected to the intake manifold (on driver side end of manifold). Check the Vapor Canister line is securely attched to the intake manifold (on topside of manifold to left of throttle body, plastic tube that goes around to driver side of head and connects to a solenoid, other section of the canister line connects to other end of this solenoid and then routes to firewall and then underneath the car-- runs next to the fuel line.) These are the most common to check for vacuum leaks, although leaks are rare. You could also slide underneath from the rear bumper and make sure the vac lines are secure on the actual Vapor canister itself. Road debris or something could potentially knock them c0ckeyed, since the canister accessories aren't really shielded from road debris hazards. Vapor canister is mounted aft of the gas tank and near the cross beam for the rear wheels.
Old 08-31-2008 | 09:23 AM
  #12  
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I never drove a 2.2, but I was impressed with the 2.4 auto from my first test drive when I did a burnout from a stop sign at about 3/4 throttle. In my case, I did add a few performance boosters-most noticable was the computer tune, which eliminated the hesitation when stepping on the gas. I also added a CGS intake and IMCO muffler and Autolite spark plugs.

Be be forewarned that in some cases, the intakes have been suspected of causing computer codes (I am one of the victims). The GM intake is reported to be free of these problems.

I have a computer timer from Escort, and according to it I am pushing 213 HP and should do the quater mile in the mid 15"s which is not to shabby. The car will smoke the tires at half gas, and will chirp second gear at full throttle.

Handling wise, a rear sway bar is a VERY easy add on and makes a big difference.

Enjoy your HHR
Old 08-31-2008 | 10:06 AM
  #13  
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thanks for the info, i was going to buy an intake but now that you mention that i guess i'll have to buy a GM.
Old 08-31-2008 | 10:49 AM
  #14  
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Just to add, CGS, Airrade and K&N intake/filter set ups are fine. Dont over-oil the element and it wont fux with the sensor. Also, Since it is drawing in engine compartment hot air, it really isnt a cold air intake. I bought mine for the look and the sound.
Old 08-31-2008 | 10:58 AM
  #15  
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so you guys think is better if i just drop a K&N filter in the stock box instead of the whole intake?
Old 08-31-2008 | 01:57 PM
  #16  
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meriquillo, here is how Chevrolet officially feels about K&N type oiled gauze air filters, note the last paragraph (bold emphasis mine):

-----------------
Bulletin No. : 04-07-30-013B

Date: February 01, 2007

INFORMATION

Subject:
Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon (SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air Filter

Models:
2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks
2007 and Prior Saturn Models
2003-2007 HUMMER H2
2006-2007 HUMMER H3
2005-2007 Saab 9-7X

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).





The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:

Service Engine Soon (SES) light on

Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)

Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range

The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.

When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the concern.

The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.

If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.

Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not considered to be warrantable repair items

-----------------
Old 09-01-2008 | 11:12 AM
  #17  
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I installed my filter as it came in the box and never oiled it myself. And my problem began with the code coming on only when I did a burnout, and has progressed to the point where I get the code when just driving normally or sitting at a traffic light. Generally, though, it happens when I am accelerating. I recently replaced it with an oiless filter, cleaned my MAF, and still have the problem.

I hope my MAF was not permanently damaged. I want to try a friends to see if it solves the problem before buying a new one. My only other guess could be a change in airflow from the different intake tube that triggers the code.

I really prefer the way the CGS looks over the other systems. And I am really mystified as to why some people have this problem while others do not.

In carefully reading the service bulletin, I noticed that it included oil deposits on the hose. So, I will try removing the entire intake and cleaning the insides of it, as well as recleaning my MAF. Wish me luck...
Old 09-01-2008 | 04:41 PM
  #18  
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Well i tried this last night and it really helped. Acceleration is better now

Originally Posted by Hotrodbob
If memory serves me, the computer is "Block learn" in that it learns the driving style of the driver and constant conditions. As such if you bought the car used then the driving pattern that has been learned is that of the previous driver. To reset the computer to the base setting I think you need to disconect the battery for a minute or so and reconnect it. After that the system will learn your driving style and adjust to provide your opimum settings.

Maybe one of the true tech guys can confirm this.
Old 09-03-2008 | 05:05 PM
  #19  
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Joined: 10-02-2005
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From: VA
Most of the current cars have a delay programmed into the ECM for entering Power Enrichment, for both emissions and mileage.

A good tune will get rid of it, giving much better response and power.

If you "can" keep you foot out of it.... You'll notice no loss in mileage.

In fact, a good tune can result in much better mileage.

For anyone thinking that power and mileage is an either/or situation, that's not true.
Old 09-12-2008 | 02:12 PM
  #20  
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Joined: 07-18-2008
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From: GA
Originally Posted by Lee3333
I never drove a 2.2, but I was impressed with the 2.4 auto from my first test drive when I did a burnout from a stop sign at about 3/4 throttle. In my case, I did add a few performance boosters-most noticable was the computer tune, which eliminated the hesitation when stepping on the gas. I also added a CGS intake and IMCO muffler and Autolite spark plugs.

Be be forewarned that in some cases, the intakes have been suspected of causing computer codes (I am one of the victims). The GM intake is reported to be free of these problems.

I have a computer timer from Escort, and according to it I am pushing 213 HP and should do the quater mile in the mid 15"s which is not to shabby. The car will smoke the tires at half gas, and will chirp second gear at full throttle.

Handling wise, a rear sway bar is a VERY easy add on and makes a big difference.

Enjoy your HHR
What has happened to your gas mileage as a result of upping your HP to 213? I would be very interested in trying this as long as the gains in HP don't crush my fuel efficiency. Also, does that impact the warranty?

Thanks.


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