HHR Performance Module +25HP Kit
08-28-2007, 05:55 AM
#31
Join Date: 08-28-2007
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1
As a compare putting a NOS kit will maybe give you 35 to 50hp. on a 2.2 or 2.4 ecotec motor
As for a magic electric kit First off, all those mods will do is adjust your fuel/air for you. As any car fool can tell you that all depends on the ambient pressure and the air density or heat of were your at. These magic products are fixed to give you as much fuel as possible. But now since its a fake output on your air side your timing is off. The O2 sensor will read your not burning all your gas and retard your spark,That means less power at high rpm. This may give power within a cretin bandwidth but you loose more power in others. They are not worth the money to ship them.
If you want to make one just go to your local electronics store and buy a diode, and 5ohm resistor and put them between your V+ and V-ref on your Mass air flow meter. it wall coast under a dollar.
Now If you want to do tuning first thing is go to eBay and look for a product made by HKS. called a AFR (Air Fuel Ratio Regulator). This plugs in between your wiring harness and MAF (mass air flow meter). It allows you to adjust the voltage input to you ECU that means air. If you do not understand what I am saying don't touch your car.
Second is add a wideband O2 sensor that has a VAR from .2 to 7.5 volts instead of .5 to 5.0 . This will allow you to adjust your timing. You can tune.
Last is add a vacuum fuel pressure regulator to adjust your fuel press. RK sports makes a nice model that's easy to install. I've noticed with my 2.2l ecotec the stock injectors begin cavitation at 42>psi.
Then
Put a exhaust system around 2.5 form cat back and an intake and you might pick up around 25hp for about 1000 rpms. like 4200 to 5200. and a few more horse power above that.
As for a magic electric kit First off, all those mods will do is adjust your fuel/air for you. As any car fool can tell you that all depends on the ambient pressure and the air density or heat of were your at. These magic products are fixed to give you as much fuel as possible. But now since its a fake output on your air side your timing is off. The O2 sensor will read your not burning all your gas and retard your spark,That means less power at high rpm. This may give power within a cretin bandwidth but you loose more power in others. They are not worth the money to ship them.
If you want to make one just go to your local electronics store and buy a diode, and 5ohm resistor and put them between your V+ and V-ref on your Mass air flow meter. it wall coast under a dollar.
Now If you want to do tuning first thing is go to eBay and look for a product made by HKS. called a AFR (Air Fuel Ratio Regulator). This plugs in between your wiring harness and MAF (mass air flow meter). It allows you to adjust the voltage input to you ECU that means air. If you do not understand what I am saying don't touch your car.
Second is add a wideband O2 sensor that has a VAR from .2 to 7.5 volts instead of .5 to 5.0 . This will allow you to adjust your timing. You can tune.
Last is add a vacuum fuel pressure regulator to adjust your fuel press. RK sports makes a nice model that's easy to install. I've noticed with my 2.2l ecotec the stock injectors begin cavitation at 42>psi.
Then
Put a exhaust system around 2.5 form cat back and an intake and you might pick up around 25hp for about 1000 rpms. like 4200 to 5200. and a few more horse power above that.
08-28-2007, 11:32 AM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: 10-02-2005
Location: VA
Posts: 1,245
Wow! Talk about resurrrecting myth and lore from the dead with even more! 
The 2.4 E67 ECM is one of the most sophisticated of the GM units available. Any of these resistor-type devices will only trick the ECM during the very short open loop warmup period. Once the system goes into closed loop, the primary O2 sensor will detect any variance from stoic and correct the AFR via fuel trims on an ongoing basis.
Other than a piggy-back type system for unusual setups like N2O for FI system, only reprogramming the ECM will work, and with good results if done right. Expect 10-15 HP gains in reality.
The 2.4 E67 ECM is one of the most sophisticated of the GM units available. Any of these resistor-type devices will only trick the ECM during the very short open loop warmup period. Once the system goes into closed loop, the primary O2 sensor will detect any variance from stoic and correct the AFR via fuel trims on an ongoing basis.
Other than a piggy-back type system for unusual setups like N2O for FI system, only reprogramming the ECM will work, and with good results if done right. Expect 10-15 HP gains in reality.
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