mitzkity

I just got back from taking mitzkity for her first oil change.

They turned me down, sent me home!

I've had her for a year now, and mainly because of my heel surgery, she only has 6000+ miles on her. They said, "trust the computer", "it's because of the engine you have", "You don't want to pay money you don't need to spend". They said to wait until over 9K miles on it even though I told them it's a year old.

Isn't there something to be said for getting rid of that old oil?

Snoopy

Oh, oh..here we go again

Your Owners Manual says to change oil when told to do so by the OLI OR once a year. I'd say do it, if the year is close, or you are over....IMO

But really Cheri, the simple thing to do is to take it someplace else.

TkHHR

I would take it somewhere else. The driving conditions in So Cal are extreme. With the short trips and bumper to bumper traffic it is hard on the engine. I wouldn't go over 4500 miles between oil changes max.

captain howdy

I'm surprised you found a honest dealer that recommends what GM says to do rather than just taking the easy money.

chingchonger

That service advisor doesn't know his product. Sure, trust the computer, but also trust the owner's manual. I changed my oil after 250 miles.

There are two ways to break in a new engine. The owner's manual way or the GM Performance Crate Engine way:

Start-up and Break-in Procedures

1. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with the correct (refer to instruction sheets that come with the crate engine) motor oil (non-synthetic) to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc.

2. The engine should be primed with oil prior to starting. Do this by using an engine oil priming tool. If you do not have one, one can be obtained through GM, part number 12368084. Follow the instructions enclosed with the tool. This is the sure way to get oil to the bearings before you start the engine for the first time. Also, prime the engine if it sits for extended periods of time.

3. Safety first. If the vehicle is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked and the car cannot fall into gear.

4. Start the engine and adjust the initial timing. Set the ignition timing to timing specified in the instruction sheet and the engine idle to the speed as specified in the instruction sheet. Rotate the distributor counterclockwise to advance the timing. Rotate the distributor clockwise to retard the timing. Leave the vacuum advance disconnected.

5. When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow the oil sump and water temperature to reach 180°F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration runs.

6. Once the engine is warm, set the total advance timing as specified in the instruction sheet.

7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle (WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations.

8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and 55 MPH (if application is a vehicle), and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.

9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 5000 RPM and 55 MPH (if application is a vehicle), and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.

10. Change the oil and filter. Replace with 20w50 racing motor oil (not synthetic) and an ACDelco oil filter. Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.

11. Drive the next 500 miles (or 12 to 15 engine hours) under normal conditions. Do not run the engine at its maximum rated engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.

12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.

13.Do not use synthetic oil for break-in. It would only be suitable to use synthetic motor oil after the second recommended oil change and mileage accumulation.

Lone Ranger

Yep Chingchonger, that would be what Snoopy referred to as the "whip schedule" more or less. It is a proven method to ensure the piston rings get seated. It takes maximum cylinder pressure to seat the rings right, and this needs to be done before the cylinder walls begin to wear in.

This is how I broke Cobbs in, although I used 75% of redline as my limit, about 4700 rpm in the 2.2L ecotec's case.

Mitzkity, get the oil changed. Unless you're running full synthetic I wouldn't go beyond 6000 miles. Actually not beyond 5000 on conventional oil. I'm running Mobil Clean 5000 conventional oil which is *supposed* to be good for 5000 but I'll change it after about 4000, then I'm switching to Mobil Clean 7500 synthetic blend which is supposed to be good for 7500 miles, but I'll change it on a 5000 or 6000 mile schedule.

For what its worth, Mobil is the maker of the Goodwrench oil dealers use as well as the factory fill oil put in the engine after assembly. Also, there will be trace amounts of engine assembly lube mixed in with the factory fill oil but that's not a bad thing, if anything it helps the oil.

chingchonger

I ran Mobile 1 in my 95 Acura Integra. Changed it every 10,000 miles. Never had a problem with the engine. Had 170K miles when I sold it.

Lone_Star

So, is it recommended to change the oil and filter after the first 500 miles (initial break-in), then run it 3000 miles, and change it again?

If GM recommends not using full synthetic until after the 2nd or 3rd oil change, how are they doing break-in with the Corvettes that are filled with synthetic from the factory?

mitzkity

Well, mine is just a mild-mannered CAR but I guess I can read all these threads and posts and find a midpoint, somewhere between the "McDonald's" treatment and Ruth Criss Steakhouse? Thank goodness my husband reads and understands all of this!! Thank you for giving this topic a re-visit in my honor.

solman98

This is not a crate engine. This engine does not require a break in.

But I'm shocked they sent you away. I got a notice from mine stating the first change was due at 3K for break in.

But after a year, I would change reguardless of mileage just to make sure moisture was removed.