Power increase
#61
I have found this thread to be one of the most open, honest and informative threads I have seen here. Aside from the hard feelings thrown around I think it was a cleansing of misinformation and we can all go forward with a better understanding of the difference between noise and power. I am so glad I still have my cash in my pocket.
#62
What I have a problem with are vendors who tell people that it's going to give you a substantial increase in power and the people who choose to perpetuate those myths when someone has taken their own time and money to independently test the product, and found that the claims are hype.
people will see this as personal bashing since mike's word was considered the "final say" by a lot of members here. I hope these same members realize that he was a vendor, and vendors are in it for the money first and making friends later. If mike really see his customers as friends he would still be here posting even after he closed shop for good. I guess as soon as the cash flow dried up, he booked it....IMO of course!
#65
#66
The most promising (read $$$$) option I've seen is the work that Hahn Racecraft had done on the 2.4 with a turbo setup. Initially it was on a Solstice, but now releasing one for the Cobalts. It should only be a matter of piping routing changes for the HHR. Have at it!
#67
close...
during normal operations the pcm takes in all data from the sensors and tries to keep the mixture at the standard 14.7...
then at wot (usually 95% and above) the computer goes into a closed loop mode when it usually goes into a predetermined fuel "dump." it usually runs fairly rich here to keep things safe but not 13:1 - that's too lean. usually anywhere from 10-11.5:1...
my .02
during normal operations the pcm takes in all data from the sensors and tries to keep the mixture at the standard 14.7...
then at wot (usually 95% and above) the computer goes into a closed loop mode when it usually goes into a predetermined fuel "dump." it usually runs fairly rich here to keep things safe but not 13:1 - that's too lean. usually anywhere from 10-11.5:1...
my .02
Cold startup and PE are open loop. In the 2.4 there are a few parameters that control the enrichment. A factory tune will command 13.0 AFR up to the mid-RPM range then go to 12.5 AFR. This is from the actual PE EQ calibration tables. The problem is (and the biggest gains from a tune!) is that there is about a 5.0 sec. delay on PE, likely for meeting EPA or CAFE numbers. After that delay the computer says "I think he's serious!" and enters PE. On top of that, on a good full power run, two more parameters kick in.... Piston Protection, which will phase in a richer mixture, as will COT (catalytic over temp), resulting in the actual AFR heading towards 10:1 at the top end, which is NOT good for power. Ideal PE AFRs for a NA engine should be in the 12.5 to 13.0 range.
#68
The 5 sec delay needs to be gone. Now you have me wanting tune software and a cable. But I have the 2.2 and I think all the software is for 2.4's. That's probably for the best in my case. I need to leave it alone. If my wife were to catch me with a cable and laptop hooked up to our new HHR she would neuter me with a rusty butter knife on the spot.
#69
The 5 sec delay needs to be gone. Now you have me wanting tune software and a cable. But I have the 2.2 and I think all the software is for 2.4's. That's probably for the best in my case. I need to leave it alone. If my wife were to catch me with a cable and laptop hooked up to our new HHR she would neuter me with a rusty butter knife on the spot.
When they do, just tell the wife you're programming more capacity for her favorite music!
#70
the only solution for L61 E16a vehicles right now are the piggy back setups. Best one out there right now is the AEM FI/C which allows using larger injectors than stock, timing changes, fuel map changes, and so on. Since it IS a piggy back it allows you to retain the stock PCm and BCM to allow your power items (windows, mirrors, etc) to still work. That can be discussed in the 2.2 performance section though...
Monza.. I sure hope your AFR gauge is a Wideband and not a o2 tapping AFR gauge. Those things are good for nothing. A decent wideband would be a AEM UEGO or Innovative LC-1. If you are using a narrowband please throw it away!
Monza.. I sure hope your AFR gauge is a Wideband and not a o2 tapping AFR gauge. Those things are good for nothing. A decent wideband would be a AEM UEGO or Innovative LC-1. If you are using a narrowband please throw it away!