If you guys have any detailing questions...
#21
First off, you do very nice work. It tells me a lot that you are trusted to work on that quality of auto, and have the results you have shown. I'm a novice at detailing, but I'm wanting to learn the proper way to remove swirls and light scratches. I have bought a variable/high speed buffer and I'm ready to go, but I do have a couple of questions if you don't mind. First off, how do you polish corners, or places that are not flat? I would guess you do those parts by hand so as not to burn the paint, but perhaps with training, you are able to hit those spots without harm? Also I have vinyl pinstripes, and I'm not sure if I should avoid those, or if it would be OK to hit those lightly with the buffer on a slower speed? Finally I use Mirror Glaze products by Meguiars, starting with the Swirl Mark Remover (#9) and work up from there. Also I use Meguiars clay bar and Meguiars NXT Tech Wax. I have always had very good results with Meguiars, so I tend to stick with them. I realize there are products out there that probably do a better job, for a higher price, but do Meguiars products do a good job for the price in your opinion? Thanks for your time, and again, you do GREAT work. I would be a nervous wreck just brushing the dust off any of those cars.
#23
I normally know what i'm doing with detailing but i am lost on something, the black trim around the windows on my hhr seems extremely dry. I tried using back to black but that didn't work. A couple of days after the back to black its back to being dry and gray again. What kind of product would you recomend using?
#24
As for myself and I can't brag, with the hard water in my neigborhood I can ruin a poor car wash. Which is why I let the Pros like TH wash/detail my ride.
#25
Wow thats great work. My brother has a 69 Vette and he is all about Zaino products. They send him all kinds of stuff. Watching him agonize over his car turned me off to keeping mine anything more then washed and waxed . But everytime I sell a car I pay to have it detailed first.
I would say your work would more then pay for itself when it comes time to sell a car. Very very nice.
For those of us who are looking for the best protection if not the best shine what store bought products do you recommend in the interim. I run mine through a touch less car wash and wax it with liquid Glass. Not the best but it looks as clean as most cars on the road. I would wash it at home but I think I would do MORE "damage" then a car wash.
BTW This is the first black car i have ever owned. My brother laughed when he saw the color. He knows I'm not capable of keeping it looking as he believes it should. He's right. Every other car I have owned was white. I guess Im in trouble LOL
I would say your work would more then pay for itself when it comes time to sell a car. Very very nice.
For those of us who are looking for the best protection if not the best shine what store bought products do you recommend in the interim. I run mine through a touch less car wash and wax it with liquid Glass. Not the best but it looks as clean as most cars on the road. I would wash it at home but I think I would do MORE "damage" then a car wash.
BTW This is the first black car i have ever owned. My brother laughed when he saw the color. He knows I'm not capable of keeping it looking as he believes it should. He's right. Every other car I have owned was white. I guess Im in trouble LOL
I think if your happy with the results with the effort your putting in, then you don't need to change a thing! Liquid Glass is super high in silicone, which can cause problems in the future if you need a touch up, but otherwise its a nice product.
Originally Posted by Z-Man
if you ever work on a vehicle like an HHR please take some pics, The paint job is not the same as the ones that you work on, So I would like to see the out come of the products that you use on a High Value vehicle vs an HHR. It's just not the same.
Originally Posted by mizzouHHR
First off, you do very nice work. It tells me a lot that you are trusted to work on that quality of auto, and have the results you have shown. I'm a novice at detailing, but I'm wanting to learn the proper way to remove swirls and light scratches. I have bought a variable/high speed buffer and I'm ready to go, but I do have a couple of questions if you don't mind. First off, how do you polish corners, or places that are not flat? I would guess you do those parts by hand so as not to burn the paint, but perhaps with training, you are able to hit those spots without harm? Also I have vinyl pinstripes, and I'm not sure if I should avoid those, or if it would be OK to hit those lightly with the buffer on a slower speed? Finally I use Mirror Glaze products by Meguiars, starting with the Swirl Mark Remover (#9) and work up from there. Also I use Meguiars clay bar and Meguiars NXT Tech Wax. I have always had very good results with Meguiars, so I tend to stick with them. I realize there are products out there that probably do a better job, for a higher price, but do Meguiars products do a good job for the price in your opinion? Thanks for your time, and again, you do GREAT work. I would be a nervous wreck just brushing the dust off any of those cars.
To answer your questions, I use a beveled Lake Country pads on my machine (are you using a Porter Cable or a rotary) which allows be to play the angles and work the the buffer close to edges. I don't do much by hand.
As far as buffing creases, I always tape the opposite edge of the paint so I don't have to worry about the edge of the pad burning through the paint, as evidenced by this photo. Here I have the lower lip of the bend taped so I can buff right to the edge of this Ferrari. This Ferrari has orginal 25 year old lacquer, which was very thin, so a lot of caution had to be used.
As far as pinstriping, its probably better safe then sorry. I would tape over the area's with a 3M painters tape.
Originally Posted by SindyDix
What does this service cost?
I am not allowed to discuss pricing on here because of vendor rules, but I will say I am not here looking for bussiness, I am booked about 5 weeks in advance and don't have enough time to get accept new clients anyways. But I love to help out. I personally charge 115/hr and usually put in between 3 to 12 hours per car. On certain rare exotics I am prepparing for Concours De' Elegance shows, I can have upwards of 35-50 hours.
Here is a link to a car I recently did (you can see the HHR in some of the later pictures on the thread , which I have 28 hours into so far, and will need another 10 hours before its ready to go). http://autopia.org/forum/click-brag/...3-99-pics.html
I normally know what i'm doing with detailing but i am lost on something, the black trim around the windows on my hhr seems extremely dry. I tried using back to black but that didn't work. A couple of days after the back to black its back to being dry and gray again. What kind of product would you recomend using?
Last edited by HillsdaleHHR; 10-16-2007 at 07:37 AM. Reason: Reduce Pic size
#26
Z-man I'm with you on this. Th, not meant as as an insult, it looks like you do good work on the higher grade cars but if you can work miracles with an HHR...
As for myself and I can't brag, with the hard water in my neigborhood I can ruin a poor car wash. Which is why I let the Pros like TH wash/detail my ride.
As for myself and I can't brag, with the hard water in my neigborhood I can ruin a poor car wash. Which is why I let the Pros like TH wash/detail my ride.
Here is some more regular cars I have done...
#28
Dry Wash
What do you think about the so-called Dry Wash products. Some folks think they are great but it scares the hell out of me. It would be handy right now as the entire north Georgia area is under a water ban. I prefer to wash my cars myself, but can't right now.