billeesy

I think my amp is gonna blow my stock subwoofer. Do you know how much this subwoofer can handle? Also I noticed that it has a dual voice coil. Can you give me any help on how to wire that to the amp?

nacorona

Well I've got my speaker wired series-bridged to the amp. I'm going to assume you don't know much electrical. This means that the red wire from one coil is hooked to the black of the other. You should then be left with the black wire from one coil and the red from the other free.

You would connect these to the appropriate places on your amp for bridged operation. Red to + black to -. Most amps that are stereo or 2+ channels will have two connections denoted for bridged output. The PA-330 amp is exactly like this.

As for settings, always start with amp gain as far down as possible, crossover set for low-pass and if it has an adjustable setting for the cross over that should be as low a Hz setting as possible, with your signal (volume) down all the way. Slowly turn up the volume to the point you want it, and adjust the gain up slightly, then the crossover setting until you have a good sound. Then increase gain to the point you hear popping or distortion, and back it off a few. Adjust crossover and gain as necessary to compromise volume/bass fullness.

As for how much power.. I estimate 85-130 watts max, RMS like 50-70. My gain is about 40-45% crossover set to approx 60-75 Hz. Best guesstimate. Haven't taken any readings yet.. Suppose I could I have a Fluke 77-IV.

billeesy

Thanks for the help. I seen others say the same thing in different posts about wiring subs, but I just wanted to make sure this wasnt any different. I hope my amp can go as low as the rms rating for this speaker. Ill adjust it like you described. If not looks like a new sub is on the shopping list.

billeesy

i got my amp and sub hooked up tonight. Heres my first impression. Although I hear base in my system again after installing the new door speakers im a little disappointed still. I have my amp set at all minimum settings and my sub still crackles when i turn the volume up.... Also this remote i got with the amp has no effect at all. Im not sure what it is for, because when I turn it down it sounds no different from when its turned all the way up. Right now i have my amp just sitting in the little compartment above the spare tire but im going to have to fasten it down to a more permanent spot, although I do like the spot its in. Maybe ill just screw it down there. I think I got too much tweeter in my system with the 3 ways and 4 ways. Im gonna have to figure something out to level it out. I bought this Cadence mid range speaker awhile back, and that thing has an rms of 250 and 500 max into 8 ohms. When I bought it I thought it was a pair of speakers but it was only one. For the money I paid I think i got ripped off. Anyways I might put it in a box and have my amp power it. It wont fit in the doors. I already tried that. It would be nice to just put it on the opposite side of the sub but id have to do some cutting.

nacorona

Well at first glance I'd say you need to get a better amp (you do get what you pay for) and standardize your remaining speakers. Mine are all Alpine SPS-6xx series with matching specs. 600's for the rear doors, 610's for the front. Haven't used the component tweets that came with the 610's yet tho. All you need for the sub is a 300w amp which will give ample room for upgrade. Trust me, unless your goin for broadcast-annoying-sounds-like-****-outside-the-car sound, something like the kicker cvt8 will suffice, and indeed when I feel I have the 80$ it will take that's what I'm gettin. Don't forget to put some poly-fill in the speaker box. A light-medium firmness of stuffin in the stock box works admirably. Also I'm still rockin the stock XM ready deck as so far its sufficiently loud and clear enough drivin the doors. Everything is fed from auxiliary in connections still, sub amp is not wired in to the system yet.

However, can you tell me about your wiring job and components used? If the wiring isn't sound enough it can have a biiiig impact. Connection types and quality of the connectors can make a big difference. It even goes down to how well the connections are crimped and where the wiring is run.

billeesy

I wouldnt exactly call this amp cheap. I searched for the lowest price on the internet, and the lowest price I found for it was $100. When I bought mine it came with the 4 gauge cadence wire kit so I paid a little more. Seems all that is good quality. I have the amp bridged right now, so I am going to pull it back to one channel and see if that improves it. I think I am just overpowering the sub. I am pumping 540 watts RMS into it when i have it bridged. Today when I turned the remote up or down I could notice a slight difference, but very little , where as last night I couldn't tell a difference.

I still need to make some adjustments. I was just giving my first impression after installing everything. I was a little warn out last night to go any further. The heat was getting to me. I was having issues with the ground wire keep disconnecting because the wire was so short but other than that everything went sort of smooth. Not bad for my first time. I was reluctant to do anything with my car audio before now, because of a bad experience I had with a previous car (it didnt start after I was through), but now as long as I have something like the Pac converter, I will not be afraid to get into this stuff. That converter really made it simple.

billeesy

After reading the very minimal instructions that came with the amp, I was able to adjust it correctly to the low frequencies rather than the higher frequencies, and now I do not get any distortion when turning it up, and the remote volume control works perfect. I have it on one channel which gets something like 180 watts. Still though I think I need to redo something with my other speakers or amp them as well, because this is just not getting it. I still hear too much tweeter and not enough base.

foofoomaru

I'm curious how things went with your setups? I have no subwoofer but have been wanting to add one while replacing the stock speakers (front and back) while keeping the stock HU if possible.

It seems as though you guys are going through the exact stuff that I need to go through to get such results. Do you have any before and after photos of things (mainly the subwoofer).

I definitely need help on this whole ordeal. haha. Not a stereo whiz.

billeesy

Im convinced I need a bigger sub, maybe 10" or 12" might do the trick. I am used to my Onkyo system in my living room kicking out better sounds and I think it has a 10" subwoofer. As far as pictures go. I can take a few but its not really showing much. The 8 inch stock sub fits into the left hand side in the hatchback The whole box goes in there so you dont see it from the outside. I dont have a cover on my speaker face so it doesnt look right, and theres really no screws or bolts holding the box in place so I think it moves when I drive. I will open it back up and make sure its secured down shortly. The box its in is stock also, and it didnt come from my HHR so the fasteners werent with it. Ill post some pictures tomorrow, Even with that I am somewhat satisfied with my results. When I crank it up it thumps and you could hear it a half block away. lol. I think a bigger sub that can handle more wattage, would sound more crisper so I may eventually shoot for getting that but then I would have to get an enclosure also because the stock enclosure is made for an 8".

billeesy

OKay here are my pics. It may not look the greatest but i am not worried about the looks in the back. I would like to cover the speaker opening with something and hide the wires better but this is good for now.