nacorona

Well, here's what I have so far (work and other items have kept me away)

Stock sub replaced with a Memphis M-Class 8" 300w MAX subwoofer. There are 3 varieties, all very similar in specs. However I've only tried the one I have. I can produce a model number on request.

Retained stock box.
Retained all other components.
No settings changed. Will post pics of the amp when I can so you can see what exactly I did with it.

HOLY $H17!!!!!

Ahem.

Notes:

Bolt hole on the back of the stock box needs to be widened to accommodate the vent on the back of the subwoofer.
Sub could likely benefit from a larger box, say, the equivalent of the cubby between the cargo tray and the cover over the spare wheel, but doesn't sound anything approaching bad at all as-is.
After getting a geek-slap upside the head, I was reminded I am an electrician.

For the chimes, here's the interesting part:
* All connections are made in-dash, so disassembly is of course needed.
* Any new wire installation uses 16AWG minimum.
* Any 12vDC wiring runs exceeding 18 inches or that runs through an area that could be subject to damage should include a fuse in-line as close to where the wiring begins as possible to avoid potential for fire due to shorts or grounds.
* For the AUX connection to the amp, use of a 500 milliamp fuse is recommended unless your equipment specifies a different current requirement on the AUX connection.
* The beginning of a wire run is defined as the point at which the 12vDC supply is tapped into. The end of the run being at the device being supplied.

-Obtain a small speaker, about 3-25 watts 4 OHM, small in structure like a 4" or less

-Obtain 2 SPST relays (single pole single throw, functions like a light switch) relay 1 must be Normally Open with a coil current of 500mA MAX at 12VDC, relay 2 must be Normally Closed, coil current 500mA MAX 12VDC

-Both relays should be capable of greater than 2ADC (amps DC) on their secondary (switched) contacts

-Wire the COIL of relay 1 to the AUX wire coming off the PAC adapter

-Wire a 12V+ line using a 16G wire from the cigarette lighter to one side of the relay switched contacts of relay 1

-wire the other switched contact of relay 1 using a SAFE and INSULATED Y style or (has 3 wires, 1 input 2 output) or splice connection to a wire that will lead to your amplifier Remote and to the next relay (relay 2). Must be able to support 2 Amps DC minimum.

-splice into the Driver side Front speaker + line BEFORE it enters the PAC adapter from the deck (should be able to obtain a splice connection at Home Depot or Radio Shack that will do the job) and run the new line to a relay 2 switched contact

-wire small speaker + to the last remaining relay 2 switched contact

-wire small speaker - to matching - on HU using a splice connection as above

Speaker can be positioned anywhere you want. If done correctly, this speaker will only sound the chime when the auxiliary power is off. All other chime sounds while system is on will be amplified.

Description of operation:

During key-on, stereo (HU) powers on
-AUX is energized, sending power through AUX wire in the PAC adapter
--Relay 1 energizes (AUX powers the coil on relay 1) closing Switch 1 (relay 1 switched contacts)
---12V+ flows to both AMP and relay 2 coil
----AMP turns on (boomboomboom)
----Relay 2 energizes, opening relay 2 switched contacts
-----Audio and chime sounds are passed to the amplified system, all functions are retained.

During key-off:

Only functional difference is relay 2 is not energized, relay 2 switched contacts remain closed, little speaker remains hooked up to the sound system and will pass all chimes or other sounds. All functions are retained.

This is as good as my addled brain can make it right now. PLEASE please let me know if I can clear anything up for you.

yur_maker

Yes Yes and Yes
I have the same setup but a 2010 LT-1.
I installed a PAC kit, JL2 500.1 amp
and a JL10wx Sub in a box in the rear.
It sounds really good even with the factory head.

Here is a list of Components I used.

1. PAC AOEM-GM1416A Add Amp Interface ($36 @Ebay)
1. "Cadence Acoustics AMPKIT8 8 Gauge Professional Amplifier Installation Kit"
$24.95 @Amazon.com
1. JL10WX 10" Sub in a small Truck box.
1. JL2 500.1 Mono Block Amp
1. Small Package of 8" Black Cable Ties
1. Solder Iron With Good electrical Solder (For Signal Trigger Wire)
1. Small Package of Heat Shrink tube (For Signal Trigger Wire.
1. 2"x4" Velcro Tape to mount PAC under Dash.

INSTRUCTIONs to remove Radio here: http://www.socalhhrs.com/hhrradioremoval.html
Tip Remove The bezel starting from the top outer corners, you will
feel where the screw driver or panel tool will go in easier once you lift the corner slightly.


Hope this helps some of you.

evowake

Will that PAC kit work on a 2011?

can't seem to find info on 09+ for a PAC.

Thanks!

nacorona

I don't see why not, I can't see GM changing the connection configuration on the stock deck. The adapter should just plug in.

ALSO! I found out quite to my pleasure that the PAC kit I got does do straight pass-thru of the speaker connections, so my speakers are still being powered by the deck directly. That crazy assembly I discribed is not needed. Apparently tho PAC has kits that do not passthru.

Also, dash disassembly is pretty easy, just grip the vent ducts above the deck and pull out. It clips in easy. just be careful there are a mass of wires connected to the items on that center panel. Once you do that, you can see the screws holding the deck in, and you can also see what else you might need to pull off to work around there. Most of the panels just pull off, tho some you have to pull off before you can get to others.