IgottaWoody

Got me thinking..I did all my doors and the whole back end but did not do floors or roof...even at low volume I dont hear the exhaust..though it is stock...about the only noise I get is road noise from the front,,but no turbo..window has to be open and actually listening for it...its quiet enuf that I dont remember I downshifted(auto) and forgot to upshift to D untill I look at the tach....
I used Rammat BXT2

hhrfreek

I will have my Audio Barrier on Wednesday. I just ordered 36 sq ft. I didn't want to throw 200 bucks at this so I just did the 36 sq ft for $104 shipped. I ordered mine off halfpricecaraudio.com. I'll let you guys know how much it will cover for the floor with some pics. My main concern is the rear spare tire area and wheel wells to deaden my exhaust drone a little. Though I'm calling it a drone and my buddies say it sounds good

American & Proud

Cool.

Don't be surprized if your box actually says this on it.








I got mine from the same the same place you did, I emailed them when it arrived saying they sent me the wrong stuff, they replied it is the Same just a name change or something.

The box has a website and a phone number on it, but I did not call it, I think these ASC guys may make it and sell under different brand names maybe?

Who knows, I wasnt gonna send it back for a name on the box.

The box colors and basic design concept are the same.



I figured they must be the same product. I was very happy with it.

My doors are done on the inside of the outter doorskin and on the inner door as well. Then directly behind each door speaker I put 2 more layers of a piece 9"X8" so I have 3 layers directly behind the speakers.

For exhaust noise you may need more than 1 layer, do some research and go from there.

American & Proud

I got all my interior door panels back on now.

When you seal up your doors as I did.












You will need to cut or sand off the Expanded Foam Protrusions on the backs of the door panels to reinstall them.





I cut off the first doors with my air body saw, then after that just used my DA sander with 80 grit.

sleeper

A&P-

Good to see you used the Expansion foam I suggested..

American & Proud

No, thats OEM Factory installed Foam on the door panels, I am removing the Protrusions that would go into the doors openings that I completely filled in.

I saw your post on that subject on the daily HHR thread, but you must have deleted it before I got a chance wanting to reply to you about it.

I know guys use it between metal panels, and I have known guys using the minimal expanding foams and had Problems with it ending up Bulging out the metal. Mislabeled can, Old shelf stock ? Who knows.

In the upper area of the Panels rear doors that's a pretty large flat area and I did not want to take the chance of it expanding to much and Bulging out the door. (Thin sheet metal on the HHR and new cars in general now days.)

Would have shown like crazy on a Black car.

Thats why I chose to use the clear silicone caulk and inject it into the 5 access holes that are in the upper area of the Panels rear doors, there was no chance of too much expansion, and ruining my doors.

In certain ares it's fine to use the expanding foams, but I felt it was too risky in the upper rear door areas.

Andy2.0

Wow, that looks amazing so far! How much weight do you think you added between the Mat, and Subs?

hhrfreek

Hey did it come with the roller applicator as pictured? Also, I noticed you have the torch out. Are you heating up the areas your applying it too or do you just like playing with fire?

American & Proud

The bulk kits I bought were 50-55 pounds each kit, so about 110 pounds spread throughout my whole Panel, and there is just 1 subwoofer. 12" I don't recall off hand how much it weighs in at.

I have a much smaller kit for my rear hatch, don't recall what the weight was on that kit. Not much tho.

Sub woofer will be in a Custom built box/amp rack combo down low in the spare tire well area below the normal floor height. The sub box in my Panel now is only a Temporary box.

So maybe like haulin a teenager around, spread thinnly all over, all the time.

I havent noticed any loss in performance if thats what your after. The actual Gains far outweigh any power loss. Actually Better performance as the whole cars body is Stiffer.

My Panel now Feels and acts like a much more expensive car. Tight.

Overall a better and stiffer feeling body, the doors open and close, sound, and feel like more expensive luxury cars.
It makes a Huge Difference. A GOOD one.

American & Proud

Yes they do. If your kit don't for some reason, let me know, I have 3 sitting here I will send you one.

I mentioned the torch in my earlier post reply to you.

I only used it a little, working late at night when temps dropped to the low 70's into the upper 60's.

Otherwise it was in the mid 90's when I was installing it and No added heat was needed.

Be Careful if you heat it, it turns melty gooey Quickly. Peel off the backing First, then quickly pass the heat gun or torch over it if you need to.

Even in the 70's and 60's temps it is very sticky. Start with easy areas first until you get used to using it.

You want to get it FULLY stuck down, INTO the floors rolls and dips. Leave No bubbles or air pockets. Make it fit like a pair of leather driving gloves.

Some guys remove the factory oem stuff on the floor with dry ice and a hammer and scrappers before starting.
I just cleaned mine really well first with automotive laquer thinner and then again with denatured alcohol right before placing a piece in over it.

All Doors Wide Open and Plenty of Fresh Air!

You Must either remove it or clean off that waxy/oily feeling surface.