Instructions to install aftermarket Amp and Sub
08-20-2008 | 11:01 AM
#21
Member
Joined: 07-06-2008
Posts: 26
From: Buffalo NY
I installed an 8" powered sub to my factory system using these instructions.
Thanks again for posting them. I was going to pay someone to do it but after reading your instructions and taking my time, i did it myself in about and hour and a half.
Thanks again for posting them. I was going to pay someone to do it but after reading your instructions and taking my time, i did it myself in about and hour and a half.
08-20-2008 | 05:40 PM
#23
Senior Member
Joined: 07-26-2007
Posts: 1,789
From: Pekin, Illinois
Ok the first set of information was helpful. Pictures would have been nice. However it did not specify if it was for the base audio package or the premier package. I have the 800w pioneer system. I want to tap into the sub's input (which would only be one pair of wires) I plan to leave the factory sup hooked up and add the after market sub. I decided to go straight to the factory amp, so I had more room to work. I pulled the driver side rear panel off found the wiring harness but never found the wires that where described at the beginning. So I started testing different ones but gave up because I never could find the sub input. So does any one have the for sure sub input for the 800w pioneer system. I have already built my custom box and have everything ready to go but I need this very critical piece of information. I don’t plan to have the factory head unit forever but I need some bump now, and I am saving up for the head unit I want. Please some one give me a straight clear answer, ex what two wire colors I need to tap into and if they are striped or solid. Thanks!!
11-26-2008 | 01:58 PM
#24
Senior Member
Joined: 12-14-2007
Posts: 2,964
From: Toronto ON Canada
So it looks like you guys are leaving the rear speakers connected and just adding wires to go to amp. Does that work ok for output level? I want to retain rears if possible or be able to switch back to them when the sub box is removed for cargo. If the rears have to be disconnected when using the sub I guess the best way is to run extra wires to a switch panel in the back.
And the best place to catch rear speaker wires is under the carpet inside the front doors?
How do you remove the plastic trim from the bottom of the door frame, just pull it up?
And the best place to catch rear speaker wires is under the carpet inside the front doors?
How do you remove the plastic trim from the bottom of the door frame, just pull it up?
11-26-2008 | 09:12 PM
#25
Senior Member
Joined: 07-26-2007
Posts: 1,789
From: Pekin, Illinois
So it looks like you guys are leaving the rear speakers connected and just adding wires to go to amp. Does that work ok for output level? I want to retain rears if possible or be able to switch back to them when the sub box is removed for cargo. If the rears have to be disconnected when using the sub I guess the best way is to run extra wires to a switch panel in the back.
And the best place to catch rear speaker wires is under the carpet inside the front doors?
How do you remove the plastic trim from the bottom of the door frame, just pull it up?
And the best place to catch rear speaker wires is under the carpet inside the front doors?
How do you remove the plastic trim from the bottom of the door frame, just pull it up?
12-02-2008 | 01:17 PM
#26
Senior Member
Joined: 12-14-2007
Posts: 2,964
From: Toronto ON Canada
Thanks for the response.
Whats the best way to catch the rear door speaker wires? Do you splice into them under the carpet and continue running wire to the rear under the carpet and storage bins?
I tried pulling on the plastic trim piece along the bottom of the front door, but I dont want to snap any tabs. Does it pull straight up?
And can I get the pink remote wire in the same place or is it only behind the HU?
Whats the best way to catch the rear door speaker wires? Do you splice into them under the carpet and continue running wire to the rear under the carpet and storage bins?
I tried pulling on the plastic trim piece along the bottom of the front door, but I dont want to snap any tabs. Does it pull straight up?
And can I get the pink remote wire in the same place or is it only behind the HU?
12-02-2008 | 07:51 PM
#27
Senior Member
Joined: 07-26-2007
Posts: 1,789
From: Pekin, Illinois
Are you running a amp to the rear door speakers? If so you should run a rca converter and I spliced into mine right behind the head unit. The converter then sits down hiden in the center console. If your just upgrading your speakers and not running a amp, just get them in the door. As far as the sub goes, I don't know. I would personally just run all new wires for it.
12-02-2008 | 09:46 PM
#28
Member
Joined: 05-26-2008
Posts: 43
From: Plainfield IL
when we did mine we grabbed the wires from the amp in the back and spliced in without ever going forward of the back seat. I even ran my power and every thing right in back and found a wire that only goes on with the key. I am running a 2400 watt amp to an l7 sub that i built a box for and the way its wired i can take out the sub in 15 sec, just unplug and its gone and my amp is on the shelf so you have full access to the back if needed and have never had any heating up issues with the amp under there. I can get some pics but it will be this weekend if you want to see them.
12-04-2008 | 12:06 PM
#29
Senior Member
Joined: 12-14-2007
Posts: 2,964
From: Toronto ON Canada
Are you running a amp to the rear door speakers? If so you should run a rca converter and I spliced into mine right behind the head unit. The converter then sits down hiden in the center console. If your just upgrading your speakers and not running a amp, just get them in the door. As far as the sub goes, I don't know. I would personally just run all new wires for it.
I dont have a 4channel for the doors yet, not enough cash at the moment.
I was going to put in the 4ch LOC behind the head unit anyway, but when I looked back there it seemed to be all enclosed. Did you have to pull out the head unit to get to all the speaker wires? I figured for now it was easier to connect in the front footwells.
I pulled straight up on the door frame trim, but still managed to snap off the small tab connecting it to the kickpanel, probably because of the cold. The wires were pretty easy to find thanks to this thread. Looks like about 14' to get from the front footwell back into the storage tray with a couple feet to work with.
12-04-2008 | 05:46 PM
#30
Senior Member
Joined: 07-26-2007
Posts: 1,789
From: Pekin, Illinois
Yeah I pulled the head unit to get to my wires. I wanted everything to be new and the guage I wanted it to be, not just reuse GM little wires. That is just me though, I dropped enough money in my system that I went all out and did it the way I think is right. Worked so far, some stereo guys around here can't believe the sound I get out of it. My rule of thumb here is you get what you pay for, and the amount of work/time you put into it will determine the outcome.