Mounting Depth In Rear Panel For Subwoofers
#1
Mounting Depth In Rear Panel For Subwoofers
Hi, how's it going? I've been wanting to install a subwoofer for quite some time now and I'm curious as to what the maximum mounting depth possible is to allow a subwoofer to be installed in the rear panel? I plan to have a custom fiberglass enclosure made at one of the local shops but I was recently offered a Kicker Solobaric L7 10" subwoofer and I'm curious if I'd be able to squeeze this into the rear panel (6-3/8" Mounting Depth). Thanks for the time!
John
John
#2
When I had mine panels off putting my amp in, there was some space behind the interior plastic panel and then a metal wall, and the outer rear quater panel. I think you should be able to get that woofer in w/o cutting that wall, there should be enough room behind the interior plastic. But my guess is your woofer will fit.
#3
Heres what I did. I removed my factory plastic box, enlarged the hole on the plastic panal (including cutting some of the metal bracket behind the panal), then attached a strip of 3/4 inch pine between where the speaker mounts and the access panal for the tail light in order to decrease the amount of air space. Next, I stuck on some Extreme dynamat on every exposed surface. Finally, I stuffed in a little fiberglass. The plastic is thick enough to hold the screws that secure the speaker itself. If it begins to get loose, then I will attach a piece of wood-either behind the panal so the screws have more to grab on to, or in front of the panal (then I would have to stain it to make it look good).
Either way, there is plenty of good bass without the inconvience of a sub box.
Either way, there is plenty of good bass without the inconvience of a sub box.
#5
You missed my point. You dont need the factory enclosure-I will give you mine if you want it. It is cheap plastic-not the best speaker box material to begin with. My speaker is just attached to the enlarged factory hole in the panal. The key to the good sound is the Dynamat. I also have it in all 4 doors. Next step is to stick it on the front of the doors behind the panals. I was told it would further insolate the car and improve the sound quality.
#6
You missed my point. You dont need the factory enclosure-I will give you mine if you want it. It is cheap plastic-not the best speaker box material to begin with. My speaker is just attached to the enlarged factory hole in the panal. The key to the good sound is the Dynamat. I also have it in all 4 doors. Next step is to stick it on the front of the doors behind the panals. I was told it would further insolate the car and improve the sound quality.
#7
Yes-the compartment behind the panal. I eliminated the plastic box that the factory 8 inch came in, as it was both too small for a 10 inch plus plastic is not the best material for a sub box. I figured that the entire area behind the panal may be too large, so I put a strip of wood in front of the access panal, blocking off the section where you reach in to change the rear light bulbs. I sealed everything with Dynamat Extreme, which made it into a sub box. Then, I added some fiberglass padding to further block off the area in front of the wheel well. The bass is very tight and strong. If this had not worked, I was going to mount one of the mini sub boxes behind the panal, but I dont think the 6 inch speakers they come with would have matched the 10 inch I am using. They actually make free air subs meant to be mounted in the trunk without a box.
Like I said before, when I crank it up, it rattles the license plate frame. And my system is not even close to being done yet. I have to run wires from the speaker plug to behind the rear seats where I have my amp mounted. Currently, I am using an old Alpine 4 channel amp-just two channels bridged for the sub-and the head unit amp. It is only 22 watts RMS. As soon as the wiring is done, I want to bring it by my friends stereo shop, and have him listen to it and help me improve it. The 4 door speakers are 8 year old Rockford Fosgates, they may need changing, along with my Auro sub. The system sounds great at low to mid volumes, but not loud.
My goal is to have as great a system as possible without intruding on the back area. That is why I think mounting the amp(s) on the back of the seat is perfect. It is hard to see through the tinted back windows (unless the light is on), gets plenty of cooling, and is out of the way. The only problem would be if I folded down the seats to carry something large. Then, it could just rest on the amp, since they only stick out a couple of inches.
Like I said before, when I crank it up, it rattles the license plate frame. And my system is not even close to being done yet. I have to run wires from the speaker plug to behind the rear seats where I have my amp mounted. Currently, I am using an old Alpine 4 channel amp-just two channels bridged for the sub-and the head unit amp. It is only 22 watts RMS. As soon as the wiring is done, I want to bring it by my friends stereo shop, and have him listen to it and help me improve it. The 4 door speakers are 8 year old Rockford Fosgates, they may need changing, along with my Auro sub. The system sounds great at low to mid volumes, but not loud.
My goal is to have as great a system as possible without intruding on the back area. That is why I think mounting the amp(s) on the back of the seat is perfect. It is hard to see through the tinted back windows (unless the light is on), gets plenty of cooling, and is out of the way. The only problem would be if I folded down the seats to carry something large. Then, it could just rest on the amp, since they only stick out a couple of inches.
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