Which one is the "Remote turn on" wire?
08-24-2018 | 01:23 PM
#11
Senior Member
Joined: 04-07-2014
Posts: 505
From: San Diego
Also, For those that have added an amp and used the low level inputs, does the mute button still work on the steering wheel?
I guess I will have to check what the HU adapters do when you want to change out the factory HU. Because they will need to recreate that signal night? Or is it coming from another location than the HU?
I guess I will have to check what the HU adapters do when you want to change out the factory HU. Because they will need to recreate that signal night? Or is it coming from another location than the HU?
08-24-2018 | 01:27 PM
#12
Senior Member
Joined: 04-07-2014
Posts: 505
From: San Diego
Maybe it is a mono line in? When the radio is muted all low level outputs get shut off and a mono line input from onstar goes to the amp? Which would explain when they talk to you all speakers output there voice equally???
If this is true you could technically take the mono input and have it power it’s own speaker somewhere in the front of the car when the rest of your system is muted.
(The only reason I suggest this instead of have some kind of dioded connection to splice the signals together is to keep good quality audio)(But maybe a simple RCA switching circuit is possible without loss added into the system)
Thoughts?
If this is true you could technically take the mono input and have it power it’s own speaker somewhere in the front of the car when the rest of your system is muted.
(The only reason I suggest this instead of have some kind of dioded connection to splice the signals together is to keep good quality audio)(But maybe a simple RCA switching circuit is possible without loss added into the system)
Thoughts?
08-24-2018 | 01:56 PM
#13
Senior Member
Joined: 04-07-2014
Posts: 505
From: San Diego
Hmm, mono input would still need two wires.
Anyone tried leaving everything stock and cutting the green wire to see what happens?
I have a feeling it is the secondary remote trigger on line, for when the radio is off.
If you have ever noticed when the radio is off and you use your blinker, your amp and speakers will turn on even though the radio is still off. This would then allow the chimes and such to work without the radio being on.
The fix would then be to combine the pink and green wire together with diode protection and you could then eliminate the amp completely.
Sorry about all the posts, but I just wanted to get all my thoughts out there Incase someone would like to help me with this.
Voltmeter to the connector is next.
Anyone tried leaving everything stock and cutting the green wire to see what happens?
I have a feeling it is the secondary remote trigger on line, for when the radio is off.
If you have ever noticed when the radio is off and you use your blinker, your amp and speakers will turn on even though the radio is still off. This would then allow the chimes and such to work without the radio being on.
The fix would then be to combine the pink and green wire together with diode protection and you could then eliminate the amp completely.
Sorry about all the posts, but I just wanted to get all my thoughts out there Incase someone would like to help me with this.
Voltmeter to the connector is next.
08-24-2018 | 02:46 PM
#14
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 25,345
From: Fredericksburg,VA
"Remote Radio Control" Lt Green is pin 15. I believe it is the control for XM/Sirius. But it is right next to the "voice lo ref".
I don't see any other control wires going to the digital radio.
The signals from the buttons are analog. Each button sends a different voltage signal from 0 to 10V. Each one means something different to the HU. I am guessing that either that is standard or the adapter deals with it.
I don't see any other control wires going to the digital radio.
The signals from the buttons are analog. Each button sends a different voltage signal from 0 to 10V. Each one means something different to the HU. I am guessing that either that is standard or the adapter deals with it.
08-24-2018 | 02:49 PM
#15
Moderator
Joined: 05-01-2014
Posts: 8,174
From: California
Also, For those that have added an amp and used the low level inputs, does the mute button still work on the steering wheel?
I guess I will have to check what the HU adapters do when you want to change out the factory HU. Because they will need to recreate that signal night? Or is it coming from another location than the HU?
I guess I will have to check what the HU adapters do when you want to change out the factory HU. Because they will need to recreate that signal night? Or is it coming from another location than the HU?
08-24-2018 | 05:19 PM
#16
Senior Member
Joined: 04-07-2014
Posts: 505
From: San Diego
Ok, great. Then it is definitely not a mute to the amplifier.
I am not changing the factory HU, so last thing before I remove the factory amp completely is...
Your saying the green wire is a 0-10v signal to the amp from the Sirius Xm Radio?
Or are you saying it is a signal from the amp to the Sirius Xm Radio?
Both seem odd, as that would mean the amp would have internal programming in order to do something with the data input.
The only thing I can think of the amp doing when receiving a canbus signal is adjusting the bass/mid/treble based on signals sent by the radio, if the radio does not do this internally?
But if that is all that is lost by not having the green wire an aftermarket equalizer would work even better.
I am not changing the factory HU, so last thing before I remove the factory amp completely is...
Your saying the green wire is a 0-10v signal to the amp from the Sirius Xm Radio?
Or are you saying it is a signal from the amp to the Sirius Xm Radio?
Both seem odd, as that would mean the amp would have internal programming in order to do something with the data input.
The only thing I can think of the amp doing when receiving a canbus signal is adjusting the bass/mid/treble based on signals sent by the radio, if the radio does not do this internally?
But if that is all that is lost by not having the green wire an aftermarket equalizer would work even better.
08-24-2018 | 05:48 PM
#17
Senior Member
Joined: 04-07-2014
Posts: 505
From: San Diego
I can see by this post:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/audi...ory-amp-23420/
No one really knows what happens when you remove the green wire.
Some say you lose the AM/FM radio, some say you lose the ability to mute, and some say you can’t start the car.
Does anyone have a good wiring diagram of what the wires from the amp go to?
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/audi...ory-amp-23420/
No one really knows what happens when you remove the green wire.
Some say you lose the AM/FM radio, some say you lose the ability to mute, and some say you can’t start the car.
Does anyone have a good wiring diagram of what the wires from the amp go to?
08-24-2018 | 07:34 PM
#19
Senior Member
Joined: 04-07-2014
Posts: 505
From: San Diego
Ok, let me run this by you.
Based on that schematic, the only outputs from the amplifier are speaker audio outputs.
The wire you highlighted in blue has a similar name as the green wire in question. The blue wire however works by reading different resistance values based on the buttons you click on the steering wheel, making it a smart input. However it still pulls 10V from the same area as the green wire in question, meaning it is just a voltage input. Different voltages do different things based on resistance.
Following the wires you can see voice low ref is just a ground to the voice signal wire.
Lastly, radio on signal, which turns on the amplifier and AM/FM antenna, is the only power on signal to the amplifier. Let’s just say the radio is off and you need to let the chimes and onstar audio through the speakers, you would need a separate remote radio control signal to turn on the amp while the radio remains off.
I know this happens, because with the radio off and the blinker on, or chimes, or what have you, the amplifier turns on producing tweeter hum.
So in conclusion, I believe the remote radio control signal is the same 10v output that is right next to it, but triggered like a relay internally to allow an output only when needed during a radio off condition.
What do you guys say to that? I don’t currently have my car apart, otherwise I would stick a multimeter on the contact and see what happens in those conditions mentioned above to confirm.
The solution would then be a diode protected splice of the two wires pink and green and problem solved, with factory amp removed.
Based on that schematic, the only outputs from the amplifier are speaker audio outputs.
The wire you highlighted in blue has a similar name as the green wire in question. The blue wire however works by reading different resistance values based on the buttons you click on the steering wheel, making it a smart input. However it still pulls 10V from the same area as the green wire in question, meaning it is just a voltage input. Different voltages do different things based on resistance.
Following the wires you can see voice low ref is just a ground to the voice signal wire.
Lastly, radio on signal, which turns on the amplifier and AM/FM antenna, is the only power on signal to the amplifier. Let’s just say the radio is off and you need to let the chimes and onstar audio through the speakers, you would need a separate remote radio control signal to turn on the amp while the radio remains off.
I know this happens, because with the radio off and the blinker on, or chimes, or what have you, the amplifier turns on producing tweeter hum.
So in conclusion, I believe the remote radio control signal is the same 10v output that is right next to it, but triggered like a relay internally to allow an output only when needed during a radio off condition.
What do you guys say to that? I don’t currently have my car apart, otherwise I would stick a multimeter on the contact and see what happens in those conditions mentioned above to confirm.
The solution would then be a diode protected splice of the two wires pink and green and problem solved, with factory amp removed.
08-24-2018 | 07:45 PM
#20
Senior Member
Joined: 04-07-2014
Posts: 505
From: San Diego
The only thing that would throw a wrench in things is if the pink wire is active with radio off and chimes working.
Anyone tested this?
It looks like post 8 and 9 on this forum state the pink wire is on at all times? Meaning maybe the green wire acts as an input to a relay allowing the pink wire to provide power only when there is a 10v power signal provided by the green wire?
In this case, adding a relay would be the solution.
By why the need for the pink wire right?
Hmm.
Anyone tested this?
It looks like post 8 and 9 on this forum state the pink wire is on at all times? Meaning maybe the green wire acts as an input to a relay allowing the pink wire to provide power only when there is a 10v power signal provided by the green wire?
In this case, adding a relay would be the solution.
By why the need for the pink wire right?
Hmm.