Pillar Removal??
#5
I cut mine out with a Bluepoint mini air saw....then I fiberglassed in some 4x6" waveguides for my JBL tweeters. definately not a DIY for the average person. But, if you just want to replace, a T-20 torx driver and a 7mm(if I remeber right) is all that is needed to remove the factory static maker. the inside of the pillar is molded to fit only a factory tweeter, so some slight mods are needed to fit an aftermarket tweeter there. You will have better results with a hole saw and flush mounting the new tweeter from the surface into the pillar. The holes molded into the pillar as a "grille" are too small and far between to allow the correct radiation pattern from the tweeter. This causes near side bias and irratic frequency response. The same defonately holds true for the door locations as well. The aftermarket speaker sits flush into the door sheetmetal about 1.75" inches behind a slightly offest group of poorly executed holes. The sound from the aftermarket speakers is mostly directed into the INSIDE of the door panels and makes imaging and frequency response suffer. It also causes the door panel to vibrate giving off sympathetic vibrations and imaging cues.
But...it looks factory :)
But...it looks factory :)
#6
I cut mine out with a Bluepoint mini air saw....then I fiberglassed in some 4x6" waveguides for my JBL tweeters. definately not a DIY for the average person. But, if you just want to replace, a T-20 torx driver and a 7mm(if I remeber right) is all that is needed to remove the factory static maker. the inside of the pillar is molded to fit only a factory tweeter, so some slight mods are needed to fit an aftermarket tweeter there. You will have better results with a hole saw and flush mounting the new tweeter from the surface into the pillar. The holes molded into the pillar as a "grille" are too small and far between to allow the correct radiation pattern from the tweeter. This causes near side bias and irratic frequency response. The same defonately holds true for the door locations as well. The aftermarket speaker sits flush into the door sheetmetal about 1.75" inches behind a slightly offest group of poorly executed holes. The sound from the aftermarket speakers is mostly directed into the INSIDE of the door panels and makes imaging and frequency response suffer. It also causes the door panel to vibrate giving off sympathetic vibrations and imaging cues.
But...it looks factory :)
But...it looks factory :)
Also any suggestions on mounting the woofers in the doors? Although they sound better than factory, the frequency response still isn't right :-\.
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