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Pillar Removal??

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Old 10-31-2008, 09:54 AM
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Pillar Removal??

Anyone change the tweeters in the pillars?? How did they come off and what tweeters did you use??
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Old 11-03-2008, 12:32 PM
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No one knows how to remove the front pillar to replace the tweeters???
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Old 11-03-2008, 01:34 PM
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there is a screw or bolt dont remember which at the top and then they just pop off. i used exile tweeters in mine. had to trim the tweet a lil tho.
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Old 11-03-2008, 02:33 PM
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Just pop out the oval plug and there is a torgue bolt. Then it's real easy.
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:49 AM
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I cut mine out with a Bluepoint mini air saw....then I fiberglassed in some 4x6" waveguides for my JBL tweeters. definately not a DIY for the average person. But, if you just want to replace, a T-20 torx driver and a 7mm(if I remeber right) is all that is needed to remove the factory static maker. the inside of the pillar is molded to fit only a factory tweeter, so some slight mods are needed to fit an aftermarket tweeter there. You will have better results with a hole saw and flush mounting the new tweeter from the surface into the pillar. The holes molded into the pillar as a "grille" are too small and far between to allow the correct radiation pattern from the tweeter. This causes near side bias and irratic frequency response. The same defonately holds true for the door locations as well. The aftermarket speaker sits flush into the door sheetmetal about 1.75" inches behind a slightly offest group of poorly executed holes. The sound from the aftermarket speakers is mostly directed into the INSIDE of the door panels and makes imaging and frequency response suffer. It also causes the door panel to vibrate giving off sympathetic vibrations and imaging cues.

But...it looks factory :)
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Old 11-09-2008, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by collyn
I cut mine out with a Bluepoint mini air saw....then I fiberglassed in some 4x6" waveguides for my JBL tweeters. definately not a DIY for the average person. But, if you just want to replace, a T-20 torx driver and a 7mm(if I remeber right) is all that is needed to remove the factory static maker. the inside of the pillar is molded to fit only a factory tweeter, so some slight mods are needed to fit an aftermarket tweeter there. You will have better results with a hole saw and flush mounting the new tweeter from the surface into the pillar. The holes molded into the pillar as a "grille" are too small and far between to allow the correct radiation pattern from the tweeter. This causes near side bias and irratic frequency response. The same defonately holds true for the door locations as well. The aftermarket speaker sits flush into the door sheetmetal about 1.75" inches behind a slightly offest group of poorly executed holes. The sound from the aftermarket speakers is mostly directed into the INSIDE of the door panels and makes imaging and frequency response suffer. It also causes the door panel to vibrate giving off sympathetic vibrations and imaging cues.

But...it looks factory :)
Do you have pics of the tweeters? I put Kappa's in my car and currently using stock locations, its a tiny hole and I've been debating taking a hole say to it to mount them properly, but worried about how it'll look.

Also any suggestions on mounting the woofers in the doors? Although they sound better than factory, the frequency response still isn't right :-\.
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Old 11-09-2008, 12:26 PM
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I used Rockford Fosgate in mine that came with the component set I bought.

Name:  Tweeter002.jpg
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Name:  Tweeter001.jpg
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Old 11-09-2008, 12:27 PM
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I just used a knife to cut out the old covering and used the mounting hardware supplied to mount the new ones too.
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Old 11-09-2008, 05:11 PM
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Yea, the Kappa tweeters are quite a bit larger than the factory ones...
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