flipher

Thanks everyone for all the info i will be installimg a cap. this weekend if i find time

SpaceCowboy

A capacitor is not the answer you will be wasting your money. Caps are buffers only needed if your battery is slow to release its charge. Get a better battery or add another. Look at a Kinetic, Deka, or Optima.

MECP Certified Installer

Sno White

Thanks, good info. Finally had time to go through it.

collinjones

I just added another battery using a solenoid kit. I was told the solenoid switch can create a voltage spike so I created an RC circuit with a fuse and I attached it to the primary battery and so far it seems to work. I have not installed my amps yet so this will be the test and I will post pics once I determine it is safe and effective.

collinjones

I used a 350v 47uF capacitor in series with a 5 Ohm resistor and a 25 amp fuse and that circuit in parallel on the primary battery to deal with the potential spike when switching batteries. For my first idea, I got a 20 AMP voltage cutoff switch at 12.1 volts which would prevent the primary battery from going dead. Then I was going to get a 12v to 12v DC battery charger rated at 20 amps with an internal current regulator. I got the cutoff circuit for $70, but the chargers with current limiter runs over $200 then it would not be possible to start the car from the 2nd battery without moving wires around. The same is true with battery isolators. Any diode will reduce voltage by .6 volts so you don't want to start the car through a diode. You will have to move wires in that case too. This is why I went with a solenoid and a Odyssey PC625 battery so I could start the car using the second battery without moving wires. You just hit a button on the controller and it will attach both batteries in parallel for 45 seconds. There is a concern that if the primary battery is very low and good, you can have a rush of current which could cause issues. To avoid this, just leave it in automatic mode and if the primary battery goes bad it will be ok since the internal resistance of batteries goes up when they go bad.
My first attempt at a battery box was wood and that is probably not a good idea so I cut out a box out of 18 gauge steel by hand and formed it over a 2x4. I then made another one for that one to fit in to and I riveted them together and rubber coated it and sealed it with silicone and painted it.

ltdoc

I have a 2010 HHR and have had electrical system problems. OEM was a 60 Ahr AGM battery. It lasted about 6 months before it was an almost daily thing to recharge the thing. Finally took it to the local dealer (not the seller of this car) for service. Took them 4 hours to decide to replace the thing, and came up with the excuse that there was a 'small' short under the dash. The second battery worked for about 6 months and started developing the same symptoms, recharging etc. Took it back, same routine about the cause of the battery not working correctly. I asked about installing a second battery and was told only if Chev. approved parts were used. Those 'approved' parts amounted to $1600.00, primarily for a larger cable front to back. When I very politely told them what they could do with that idea, I was told that there was an alternative that would not void the warranty. That alternative amounted to adding a second battery in the form of a 'booster'. To make a long story shorter I won't repeat what I told them. I added a second battery myself, using an "isolator", it works just dandy.
I have attempted to talk to someone from Chevrolet but keep getting a run around. Anyone know who I can talk to about this nonsense?
And just for grins, I have a degree in electronics, and have done this sort of stuff for over 30 years. I can't remember ever being handed such a load of 'BS' before.
- 'Doc

collinjones

My last car ate up batteries twice. The first was because my alternator cable was not tight so the battery never got a full charge. The second time was because the stereo I added had a small short in it. These can be a pain to troubleshoot. I used an ammeter to measure the current when the car was off and then I would unplug things until it dropped and then added them back one at a time until I found it. If the stereo has a removable face plate always remove it when parked so it doesn't drain the battery as much. I also replace my car alarms every few years because they can do this over time as the circuit boards tend to break down over time.

ChevroletCustomerService

If you would like to send me a private message with the information you would like me to document for you, I would be happy to do this. Please, include your first name, last name, contact information, VIN and current mileage on the vehicle. I will also need the name and location of the dealership you have had the vehicle to for this.

Michelle, Chevrolet Customer Service

EcotecRacer

Weird I run a 2400 watt rms system on stock battery and alternator no issues
But I'm smart enough upgrade my wiring from factory
Number one issue I find is people do not wire and ground correctly



Caps are snake oil gimmicks plain and simple

A power cell is only to boost reserve power aka if already have electrical issues it just adds to issue


Our alternator never drops below 12.1 at any given rpm I have seen it spike to 15.4 once or twice when load testing it

Besides several companies offer 250 to 370 amp hi out alternators

SpaceCowboy

Amen Brother!