betterof2evils4

You're either lucky or I wasn't, because when I had my 12" in it rattled my license plate, the tray, my mirror, and stuff... It wasn't the worst rattle I've ever heard, but it was far from silent...

Have fun with the bumpin'!

stick

Thanks all. I think this one is going to get me into trouble though There are noise ordinances around here and you can get your car towed if it is to loud, might just have to pay some towing

Lee3333

When I get a chance I will run a thread on what I did, but as a tease I removed my stock 8 inch sub and amp, cut out the plastic side panals (and the metal strap on the top) and fit in a 10 inch sub. Next, a put Ultra Dynamat on every surface back there, added some fiberglass insulation, and modified a speaker grill to fit. Sounds great-it rattled the license plate until I added some foam strips to the back. And, best of all, no sub boxes to be seen or take up trunk space (this is my everyday car, and used with my family). The amp is in the lower compartment next to the battery.

Using the internal amp from my Pioneer head-60 watts per channel. Factory tweeter, and 6 3/4 Rockford Fosgate in the 4 doors. Sounds almost great-but lacking something. I need to replace the power-the sub amp is an old Carver that keeps blowing it's fuse when I crank it up, and I need to get a nice compact 4 channel amp that will fit in front of the other amp next to the battery.

stick

Sounds good, but if you go with a four channel are you going to try and run RCA's? If you did then you would have to run new speaker wire to your doors.

Lee3333

Running speaker wires to the doors is no simple task. If you look under the rubber cover, there are bus connectors there. So, to make my life easier, I simply spliced into the speaker wires that were coming out of my factory amp. The wires are about 16 gauge which should be adequate. I just ran the speaker wires up to my head unit to use it's internal amp. To switch to a separate amp, I just have to run 4 new wires from harness in the back to the new amp, which will be near the battery, so it will only take a few feet.

When I first got the car, I ran 3 sets of RCA cables and a wire to trigger the amp in preparation of future upgrades.

stick

If you are good and patient, you can fish new speaker wire through those plug-ins. Pull the boot off the body panel and disconnect the harness, there is a small quarter inch square hole at the top and bottom of the harness. I got 12 guage speaker wire to go through there. If you run tweeters and need a second wire for crossovers you can run the second wire on the bottom. After that reconnect the harness and reinstall the boot. I found it easiest to start on the farthest side from you and then pull gently with needle nose pliers.

Lee3333

But is there any need to? Wont the factory wires, about 14 or 16 gauge, be adequate for up to 100 or 150 watts per channel???

stick

I would have to double check, but I don't think they are that big. They are really small speaker wires about 20 guage I thought.

Lee3333

The wires going into the amp were thin, but the high level output were quite a bit thicker. Dont recall the exact size myself, though.

stick

Even looking at the speaker wires at the door speakers, they are small. Small enough that a blue wire connector wouldn't hold them. If that gives you a better idea.