Using your stock door speaker adapters
#11
The front speakers are 4 ohm and the rears are 8 ohm but other than that pretty much any speaker will work as a replacement. Chevy speakers are an odd shape to fill the hole in the door but you can buy or make adaptors for them.
For a while I was using all 4 ohm Bose speakers in my car with the stock stereo. I decided to go with a new set of 8 ohm speakers and my home made adaptors.
There was no particular reason for changing out the Bose speakers except that I just wanted to have all new ones in the car.
Some HHR's do have sub woofers in them, mine does not. The HHR's that do have a sub woofer have them located in the rear drivers side panel, you can see the spot where they are located in the interior trim even if your car did not come with one, for a short time I did wire in a tube sub woofer that had a small amplifier in it that I got in a trade. It did give me more boom but seemed to always be in the way so I traded it off.
For a while I was using all 4 ohm Bose speakers in my car with the stock stereo. I decided to go with a new set of 8 ohm speakers and my home made adaptors.
There was no particular reason for changing out the Bose speakers except that I just wanted to have all new ones in the car.
Some HHR's do have sub woofers in them, mine does not. The HHR's that do have a sub woofer have them located in the rear drivers side panel, you can see the spot where they are located in the interior trim even if your car did not come with one, for a short time I did wire in a tube sub woofer that had a small amplifier in it that I got in a trade. It did give me more boom but seemed to always be in the way so I traded it off.
#13
Here's how my adapters turned out. After cutting out the basket, I cut the front lip off to get the speaker to sit flat and drilled pilot holes in the adapter. The screws went in on an angle. I went with JL Audio speakers - C2-650X in the front and TR-650-CXi in the back. The half foam baffles are intended as drip shields. The speakers sound great. I originally used whole baffles and found the bass was fuller with the half baffles.
#14
Rich, couple of questions. 1) are your adapters only trimmed? or did you add a piece? 2) I assume baffles will keep new speakers working longer?(I did not know our doors leak) 3) I assume the stock fronts are only one speaker, should/could I clip the feed to a coax to eliminate the tweeter?
#17
Rich, couple of questions. 1) are your adapters only trimmed? or did you add a piece? 2) I assume baffles will keep new speakers working longer?(I did not know our doors leak) 3) I assume the stock fronts are only one speaker, should/could I clip the feed to a coax to eliminate the tweeter?
1. I only trimmed the mounts - no added material. There was a lip on the front that I cut off flat to the face. It is important to know that the rear mounts are about 1/4" thicker than the fronts. This may give the impression of added material.
2. Correct - the baffles are rain hats only. While I did not see evidence of water damage, they're cheap insurance.
3. I used the complete coaxial speaker (no cutting the tweeter wire) and left the original A-pillar tweeter hooked up and operational. Technically not right but working well for me. I'm about to do my '05 Suburban and I'm using component speaker sets to replace the door and the A and D pillar Tweeters.
My goal was to replace the two non-working speakers and get decent sound. I'm really happy with the result, so I'm putting the JL TR speakers in the 'burban.
Last edited by RichW; 01-28-2015 at 05:24 PM. Reason: more details
#20
To answer agmc4me's questions"
1. I only trimmed the mounts - no added material. There was a lip on the front that I cut off flat to the face. It is important to know that the rear mounts are about 1/4" thicker than the fronts. This may give the impression of added material.
2. Correct - the baffles are rain hats only. While I did not see evidence of water damage, they're cheap insurance.
3. I used the complete coaxial speaker (no cutting the tweeter wire) and left the original A-pillar tweeter hooked up and operational. Technically not right but working well for me. I'm about to do my '05 Suburban and I'm using component speaker sets to replace the door and the A and D pillar Tweeters.
My goal was to replace the two non-working speakers and get decent sound. I'm really happy with the result, so I'm putting the JL TR speakers in the 'burban.
1. I only trimmed the mounts - no added material. There was a lip on the front that I cut off flat to the face. It is important to know that the rear mounts are about 1/4" thicker than the fronts. This may give the impression of added material.
2. Correct - the baffles are rain hats only. While I did not see evidence of water damage, they're cheap insurance.
3. I used the complete coaxial speaker (no cutting the tweeter wire) and left the original A-pillar tweeter hooked up and operational. Technically not right but working well for me. I'm about to do my '05 Suburban and I'm using component speaker sets to replace the door and the A and D pillar Tweeters.
My goal was to replace the two non-working speakers and get decent sound. I'm really happy with the result, so I'm putting the JL TR speakers in the 'burban.
Thanks for the reply and the info. I had replaced the fronts in my impala the other year and left the factory tweeter hooked up. It is right next to the 6.5" speaker. Seemed the result was too much tweeter. I don't drive it anymore since I got the HHR. I put infinity speakers in that, maybe I'll use them in the HHR. Just for knowledge would cutting the tweeter wire out of a coax make the resistance more compatible with the factory stereo?
P.S. where did you get the half hat from?