Lee3333

Nope, and I was beginning to think I would be ok. The vibration seemed to be going away...until today. I was on the highway and over 50 mph, the vibration is back. Not as bad as before, but no fun stepping on the brakes. A few shops I spoke to are hesistant about resufacing the slotted and dimpled rotors. And, while everyone says to replace the pads, with under 2000 miles on them, it seems like a waste. Since they are meant to wear, shouldnt they be able to flatten out and break in again? I am not trying to be cheap or unsafe, but with shipping it is close to another $100 plus the time of removing the rotors yet again and the expense of having them cut if I can find someone to do it.

If you look on the EBC website, they have a special section that discusses the problem I am having, blaming it on uneven rotor thickness. They even predicted pretty accurately how many miles it would take before the vibration began again. Apparantly, enough other people have this issue that they decided to answer the question before it was asked. But, how will cutting the almost new rotors solve the problem? What will prevent it from happening again? And why isnt there a phone number on the EBC web site? They never responded to either of my 2 emails, though they did say that they would ignore questions or comments that were addressed on their site. I guess they felt no need to reply to me.

The big question is why am I going through these hassles after spending hundreds of dollars for new rotors and pads? Shouldnt they just work for the next 30 or 40 thousand miles????? Installing rotors and pads is not exactly rocket science. You are bolt them on, and then you are supposed to be able to stop the car without having the steering wheel shake in your hands.

My only guess here is that perhaps something is wrong with some of the hubs that the rotors mount on. This could explain why some HHR owners have no problems, while others keep having their rotors cut and replaced but still get the vibratins back after a few thousand miles.

tireman1554

Nice how to. I wonder what it will take to compress the calipers also because I am installing new pads at the same time. Can I use the traditional "C-Clamp" method?

Maven

As has been pointed out you DO NOT need to remove the blue bolt closest to the axle, its very much best not to touch it, it holds the hub to the knuckle.

Brake pulsation on a properly torqued and cleanly assembled non defective brake is caused by thickness variation. That is the uneven buildup of debris and corrosion and the uneven deposition of friction material on the rotor. This can be avoided by proper burnishing techniques, not coming to a stop after heavy brake use and holding pressure on brakes, by using moderate brake pressure over shorter stopping distances as opposed to very light pressure over long distances(quick stops hurt fuel economy a tad, but the brakes like it better)

resurfacing or machining the rotors makes the issue go away because you cut off all the high spots.

Improperly assembled(over or under torqued) brake assemblies and wheels, brakes assembled with dirt or corrosion on hub flange, also are common causes of pulsation.

Lee3333

All good points. The first time I did my brakes, I made the mistake of removing all 3 bolts, not realizing that the third one could stay. In my case, I was very careful about braking in my pads and it was silky smooth for the first 12 or 13 hundred miles. Then, all of a sudden the pulsation began and rapidly progressed so bad that the steering wheel shook badly and you could even hear the parts vibrating/knocking. It is about 70% better now after reversing the rotors, not being hardly noticible at speeds under 50 mph. I am still hoping that in a little while the pads wear in more and the problem goes away. Or not. Then I have to have them cut.

Gr8ful

I am doing pads and rotors in the morning and need to clear up the top bolt issue. Does it need removed to replace the pads or not.
Thanks

fastsuv

The top bolt does NOT need to be removed to replace the pads. I just did my pads last week. The caliper swings up out of the way of the pads after removing the lower bolt, pivoting on the top bolt . You do not need to even loosen the top bolt. You still need to tie the caliper with a piece of wire to keep stress off the brake hose while you are replacing the pads.

Steve

andoll83

where did the pics go in the OP?

09 Panel

Probably linked from a external hosting site and the link changed.

Lee3333

I just put my new rotors and pads on from R1 Concepts and they are great so far. I called them on Thursday March 19 (unlike EBC, they have actually have a phone number) and the person I spoke to was great. They make them to order, and I received mine on Friday March 27. Remember to open the brake master cylinder before you squeeze the calipers open. I used a conventional spreader tool and left the inboard old brake on so I was pressing against it. Also remember to pump the brakes a few times before driving to build up the pressure.

Now I have to see how they are after 1500 miles, which is when my EBC rotors crapped out on me. But, the R1 have a one year warranty. Finally, I have to see about returning the defective EBC rotors. As I said before, they are not perfectly round, as seen when I removed the wheels, secured the rotor with spacers and lug nuts, and started the engine. You could actually see the rotor vibrating and that the shape was slightly oblong.

Lee3333

It feels so great to step on the brakes and not have the steering wheel vibrate. The only problem is now I am nervous that it will come back. Each time I stop, I am a little afraid. I guess driving around for 5 months with that condition will do it to you.