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Knocking sound from the front end

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Old 07-23-2010 | 07:26 PM
  #21  
Stryker's Avatar
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Joined: 09-10-2009
Posts: 170
From: Durham
Originally Posted by dantesab
well I replace both end links with moog links and both struts and the knock is still there. Inner sway bar bushings are next.If you want to pinpoint the noise unhook the end links from the sway bar and drive the vehicle and see if the noise is gone then you will know if it is from sway bar assy
That's what I am doing tomorrow :P
Old 07-24-2010 | 07:36 AM
  #22  
hhrgreg's Avatar
 
Joined: 10-03-2006
Posts: 2
From: AL
Update: I've now replaced the sway links with the moogs, and yep, knocking still there. The sway bar bushings are sitting on my bench awaiting installation now. The right side is a ***** to get to, so this isn't going to be as simple a project as the rest of the suspension items were. I did note that the lower control arm bushing on the "back" of the part (closest to the rear of the vehicle) is torn. The mevotech MS50117 replacement parts are $134/ea. Damnit this is frustrating.
Old 07-24-2010 | 03:38 PM
  #23  
Stryker's Avatar
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Joined: 09-10-2009
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From: Durham
Originally Posted by hhrgreg
Update: I've now replaced the sway links with the moogs, and yep, knocking still there. The sway bar bushings are sitting on my bench awaiting installation now. The right side is a ***** to get to, so this isn't going to be as simple a project as the rest of the suspension items were. I did note that the lower control arm bushing on the "back" of the part (closest to the rear of the vehicle) is torn. The mevotech MS50117 replacement parts are $134/ea. Damnit this is frustrating.
I ordered my Moogs through RockAuto. And if that is the correct part number for the Mevotech you have listed they are only $86.79 at RockAuto. Shipping shows $7.57 to NC for a total of $94.36 to the door. Just in case you were intrested.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...MS50117-265033
Old 12-16-2011 | 11:19 PM
  #24  
FileNotFound's Avatar
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Joined: 08-04-2006
Posts: 11
From: Somewhere over in Rainbow, SoCal
Clunking = Replace Rack n Pinion

My son's 07 LT had the front end bump clunking problem. He replaced the struts, issue was still there. Finally he took it to the Dealer (Jimmy Johnson in SD) where they replaced the rack pinion and intermediate steering shaft... Drives like new without the clunk. ... Initial bill was 2500.00 Warranty covered all but 400.00.
Old 02-28-2012 | 06:42 PM
  #25  
GOLFHHR's Avatar
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Joined: 01-22-2010
Posts: 224
From: Ontario Canada
Clunking noise in front end, had the vertical stabilizer link replaced 2 times in 18 months on passenger side. Never had to replace the drivers side. I wonder if it is a factory design flaw.
Old 03-24-2012 | 07:33 PM
  #26  
pmarth's Avatar
 
Joined: 12-13-2008
Posts: 9
From: San Antonio
I had the same noise and replaced the sway bar links with the recommended
MOOG parts. The noise went away for awahile and came back and now with new wheels and tires (stock size) it's worse then ever. Any ideas?
Update: I greased the MMOG sway bar links again, and after a couple of miles the noise went away. Next day it came back. Is this HHR haunted?

Last edited by pmarth; 03-27-2012 at 05:20 PM.
Old 08-31-2013 | 09:59 PM
  #27  
texasmagpie's Avatar
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Joined: 07-22-2013
Posts: 13
From: Temple, Texas
I am chasing this problem myself. On rare occasion I can get the front end to clunk by turning the steering wheel. Some times it doesn't clunk at all. I have been told that I might have installed the wrong length sway bar end links. ( Mine should be 10" not the longer 11" or 12" or what ever they are) The noise is getting worse. And since it's right under my feet it is quite worrying.

I am so tired of chasing this noise.
Old 09-01-2013 | 08:03 AM
  #28  
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Joined: 01-28-2009
Posts: 154
From: south carolina
GM vehicles are NOTORIOUS for "intermediate steering shaft" failures. From a 98 GMC full size pickup, to a 2004 Avalanche, to my current 08 HHR, had to have the same part replaced on all. So if it isn't the end links (the part that attaches to the strut at the top and the sway bar at the bottom) the struts, or the rubber sway bar bushings, check the intermediate shaft on the steering assembly. This is basically a "U joint" and none of the stock ones are worth a crap. My 08 2LT has had all of these items replaced and at 96k I still love to drive it. Monroe makes a "complete strut assembly" that includes the springs so you can replace them yourself if you are so inclined. (make your appointment at the alignment shop, and make it your first stop). Moog seems to make the best replacement for the end links. When you replace the sway bar bushings, for gosh sakes use the polyurethane ones that have the grease fitting!! These are good cars if you can find a capable mechanic, a good "front end man" and never, ever, ever let someone use an air tool to install your lug nuts. I do all my brake work and I use only a torque wrench on the lugs. I have never had a rotor to warp. I ran the stock ones for about 30k, switched to EBC slotted rotors and "red stuff" pads for another 25 k. I'm now back to the ORIGINAL stock rotors that I've had turned once. I found that Bendix makes a great pad (ceramic) that won't eat the rotors. I replace them BEFORE they wear out. Just my 2 cents from a wanna be mechanic, and not to be taken as the gospel truth!

Last edited by mrarff; 09-01-2013 at 08:06 AM. Reason: spelling
Old 09-04-2013 | 09:20 AM
  #29  
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Joined: 07-22-2013
Posts: 13
From: Temple, Texas
Update

Monday I took a trip totaling 80 miles. The front end rattled and clunked (and squeeked occasionally) like it was going to fall of. Replaced the end links last night. The only issue i had was a tab that is attached to the strut which holds the abs electrics rubbed the new Moog end links. Simple fix; bend them out of the way. I tried to grease them this morning, but I can't get the grease through the zerk fitting. I managed to get SOME grease in. I took it for a test spin and at least it doesn't sound and feel like it's going fall off.
How can I shoot more grease in?
Right now its oozing out the end of the gun and not through the zerk.

Texasmagpie
Old 09-04-2013 | 09:30 AM
  #30  
Oldblue's Avatar
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Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 37,825
From: Welland,Ont Canada
replace the zerk or adjust the nozzle on the grease gun to fit the zerk


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