I think you will find that the rotors are not the issue but the symptom.

The big lie is Rotors warp. They do not there are several reason for the issue.

Often the hub bearing has too much play and lets the rotor wobble while going down the road. This lets the rotor hit back and forth on the pads and wears them uneven. It is called rotor thickness variation. This will let the rotors act like they are warped but in truth they worn uneven. The hub bearing needs to have less than .002-.001 play any more will cause issues in most cars.

The other issue that will cause the issues is brake Judder from brakes not seated in properly or as they call it burnished. Non seated or Burnished pads leave embeded material in the rotor that makes it grab. Sometime is may happen and go away with wear other time it will only get worse.

The rotors you have are not defective unless there was a material failure like a crack etc. I would not blaime them for this. I do think they should have responsed and told you how it happened and how to correct it.

Seating the pads puts a even coat of brake material on the rotor and helps prevent this judder issue.

To understand this go to Raybestos.com and in their tech section they have a video of what and how both of these conditions happen. It is one of the best things I have seen to explain it.

If the rotors were that bad everyone would have the issue but not everyone does. I used too till I learned how to prevent it and have not had this issues since on any of my cars or trucks.

You can also go to Bendix and most other brake web sites and they all are in agrement.

If the rotor hub bearing is not corrected or the brake pads are burnished in properly it will happen again and again.

If you go to web sites for about any model nearly all of them have these same issues. Too few people know the truth and fail to ever get a handel on how to solve it.

Contrary to what some want to think the brake companies are giving the truth and not covering up for the car companies.

 

You are kidding right?

Edit: And what is the name of your company, I would like to not accidentally buy something from you.

 

So you really buy the line that the holes work? Believe what you want.

That is ok as guys like you that believe this add to my profit sharing .....Thanks!

You are not disagreeing with me but the people who make these. Just read the tech sections on Willwood, Bendix, Raybestos and other. Most address the rotor issues and are very honest on what is best. The truth is they tell you the best rotor is not their most expensive unless you want the looks or less unsprug weight. The more you spend the more they make so they are better off if you ignore their tech info and buy the holes.

Here is what the tirerack has to say on the Brembo rotors.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...s&make=Brembo&

NOTE: Brembo Sport drilled brake rotors are not recommended by The Tire Rack for track use or intended to be used in conjunction with race compound brake pads on the street. For severe duty brake demands see Brembo Sport slotted brake rotors.

IMPORTANT REMINDER: Slotted, drilled or dimpled rotors offered as OEM replacements should not be considered appropriate for high-speed track use.

While grooved, drilled and slotted rotors offer an enhanced appearance and add some resistance to the boundary layer of gasses that can build up between the pad and rotor, they are not designed to withstand the extreme temperatures that are produced on the racetrack. If they are used on the track, it is very important that the rotors be carefully inspected and should not be driven on if even minor signs of deterioration are seen. Note, too, that if any products are used on the track they are not warrantable.

 

True. Slots and holes shave away material on the pads. The pads will wear more. Been there, done that.

 

They can effect wear a little but not really that much.The chamfered on the holes help prevent much in the way of damage or wear to the pads. They also can and will make noises in some cases.

 

Yah THOSE rotors are not recommended for track use because of the MATERIAL they are created with..not because of the holes.

For a normal everyday street car you aren't going to have carbon brakes, but for a street car a slotted/drilled or both rotor will offer some advantage in the way of heat dispersion and deposit dispersion.

 

Material, Material, Material. Many of the OEM and all of the lower cost rotors you can buy at your local auto parts stores are crap. They are made with inferior steel in China. These rotors have a very narrow operating window and if everything is not perfect like what is mentioned in the Raybestos information above; the rotors will warp. There may be something the hub tolerance thing but a rotor made from better steel will be able to compensate for it better.

Powerslot, Brembo, EBC, Wilwood, Bendix, Proffesional Grade Raybestos, etc. rotors are all good quality rotors. These rotors all use better quality steel. The highier quality steel gives them a larger operating window and lets them better handle all of the issues that Raybestos is talking about.

I agree that the holes and slots are more for looks than anything else, but they should work fine on the street if you want that look. Raybestos has two or three price points for rotors. I would only use their Professional Grade or top level rotors.

G.B.

 

Almost all the rotors are from China now. Some are very good and some are very bad. What I run into the most is not that metal quality so much but the the tolerance mand spec the rotor is machined to.

I have on perfromance company that I deal with. They make everything in their kits here like calipers and brackets and line here but the rotors as there are few people who make them here anymore they have to have them made there. He said every thing if they get it right is as good as anything they ever had made here but if they are off on spec every one forgets how to speak english when you call them.

Many of your cast items are all made over seas or out of country. Many of the name brand pistons are made in CHina and sent here to be machined. Other items like Lifters and valves are coming from China and South America. Much of the sheet metal and plastic body parts made for restoration are now from China. While most of the parts are up to spec some are not and they can cause problems.

While it is nothing new it has always been suggested to take a light cut on a rotor even if it is new incase it was not correct from the factory. More MFG today are now saying to use the on the car lathe to cut the rotors. [In the case of many Honda models that is all they recomend.]

But on the other hand I bought a set of rotors a few years back and one rotor was made here and the other was made in China. The one from here was scewed up as they did not balance the rotor right and the weight was lose in the cooling fin of the rotor.

But you are correct in most cases you get what you pay for with many items. But watch sometimes you get the same thing in a differnt box.

 

Having worked in the printing industry for years, material is the key.
Asian companies buy steel from the U.S and then add filler metal to it, to make it stretch further. because that is how they make it cost effective for shipping it to their country.

Our Japanese presses always rusted out, and the American and German printing presses last for years and years.

Don't expect asian steel to last.

 

I have had R1 rotors for a year with no issues now. I cleaned the hubs before installing and properly torqued the wheels.