Rotor selection
#1
Rotor selection
Not happy with my current NAPA Premium rotors. Had to have them turned 17K miles after installation, and now 10k miles later, I'm starting to feel that steering wheel shutter again. I've checked the front end components, including the hubs and that all looks fine. Everything seems tight.
I've been looking around the normal stores online, Advance, AutoZone, O'Rielly's, NAPA, Summit. All seem to offer a "premium" rotor in about the $50-$60 range.
I'm needing something that will hold up to Atlanta traffic (hard on brakes). Don't mind spending the $$$ if it will just last longer than 10-15k miles before needing to be turned. Hell I got 47K from the OE's before I swapped them. Still have them, considering just getting them turned, but thinking that might make them too thin and not last any longer. Pads are still good, but will probably swap those also (NAPA ceramics).
Suggestions, please. Links if possible.
I've been looking around the normal stores online, Advance, AutoZone, O'Rielly's, NAPA, Summit. All seem to offer a "premium" rotor in about the $50-$60 range.
I'm needing something that will hold up to Atlanta traffic (hard on brakes). Don't mind spending the $$$ if it will just last longer than 10-15k miles before needing to be turned. Hell I got 47K from the OE's before I swapped them. Still have them, considering just getting them turned, but thinking that might make them too thin and not last any longer. Pads are still good, but will probably swap those also (NAPA ceramics).
Suggestions, please. Links if possible.
#3
Traffic in Atlanta is a PITA. Many trips I take, route me through Atlanta. I try to find an alternate routes as the timing of the route normally gets me into Atlanta during rush hour. NO fun at all.
#4
I hate to compare traffic but unless you are stuck in the bumper to bumper traffic I drive through daily.... One way 27 Mile trip takes 1 1/2 hours daily. My DIC states 16 mph speed average... Used Advance Autos Rotors & Gold ceramics. No issues. The key to these HHRs is your stopping "technique" and your rear brake adjustment. My rear breaks are always at 2-3 clicks when I use the parking brake. Brakes are just at the right spot with no drag.
#5
You're probably going to get mad at me for saying this, but here goes. Have you had, or have you been keeping the rear brakes adjusted at every oil change or 5,000 miles. Brake judder is usually a symptom of the rear brakes being out of adjustment enough that the fronts are doing all the braking and getting excessively hot, then warping occurs.
#6
I replaced my oem rotors with the Raybestos Advanced Technology #580382 about 40K miles ago. I've had no problems with them. I bought mine at O'Reilly Auto Parts but they show as 'currently unavailable' on their site. I concur with BlacknighT and 843de on the proper adjustment of the rear brakes.
#7
Raybestos used to have top of the line rotors, but they started replacing their Canadian & USA Steel for Chinese. (No insult intended, just country of origin info). Be careful if you purchase them, look on box. Don't get stuck paying Canadian/USA steel prices for China steel.
#8
the adjusting of the Back drums is some great info... its been a while since I had a car with rear drums and I know they need to have a little tweek to them when I do my front... Which way do I make the little star wheel turn (up or down)when I adjust thru the little hole... sorry for the TECHNICAL talk there..LOL..
#9
I hate to compare traffic but unless you are stuck in the bumper to bumper traffic I drive through daily.... One way 27 Mile trip takes 1 1/2 hours daily. My DIC states 16 mph speed average... Used Advance Autos Rotors & Gold ceramics. No issues. The key to these HHRs is your stopping "technique" and your rear brake adjustment. My rear breaks are always at 2-3 clicks when I use the parking brake. Brakes are just at the right spot with no drag.
You're probably going to get mad at me for saying this, but here goes. Have you had, or have you been keeping the rear brakes adjusted at every oil change or 5,000 miles. Brake judder is usually a symptom of the rear brakes being out of adjustment enough that the fronts are doing all the braking and getting excessively hot, then warping occurs.
And to compare bumper to bumper, which is slow and steady, to hey idiot I'm driving here.... type of braking is a big diggerance.... It' usually the latter. I get about 3-4 click right now on hand brake, and I use it everytime it's parked. Considering a drum rebuild with hopes new adjusters will actually work like they are supposed to.
My only real complaint with the HHR is the brakes. When I live in Charleston, never an issue, here in the Atlanta area, seems I can't get a year before it starts shaking again. What really gets me is the wifes car is still on the original rotors (new pads about 3 months ago) , and it's 3 years older..... Same driving.
#10
Rear brake adjustment is critical, but your front hub assemblies could also be bad. You can't really check them on the car unless they are totally gone and making noise. They can exceed the tolerance for run out way before they make noise or are loose enough to feel. If you have over 75,000 miles, I would just replace them.