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Severe inside tire wear

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Old 11-13-2013 | 05:51 PM
  #11  
Blue Beast (aka Boydie)'s Avatar
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Hello

Paragraphs help the reading tremendously.

Also for us older eyes bold is very nice. I try to use bold print when I send a message.

Boydie
Old 11-13-2013 | 09:31 PM
  #12  
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I agree with whopper. All of you problems seem to revolve around replacing the struts. If there were no problems before the struts were installed I would work on that problem first. I have never used quick struts but I wouldn't be surprised if they used springs that are close to the factory spring but may not be exactly the same as what was removed. As for the lower control arm bushing mine where completely worn out by 70.000 miles.
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Old 11-14-2013 | 05:32 AM
  #13  
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Joined: 11-13-2013
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From: MA
Thanks guys. I did a bunch of searching when I bought the struts. The forum and reliable webstores indicated I only had OEM, KYB, and Monroe options.

I went to the physical Monroe store and the guy sold me what the computer said was a quickstrut for the SS. He double-checked because he was surprised at the price of $245/pc. I needed them, and was not confident with online checks for the SS fitup.

I thought I saw a forum post where someone tried to put non-SS struts on and the tires rubbed. I checked the clearance from that picture and though I was safe.

Nevertheless, my part numbers match Whopper's.

My next step is to return to the Monroe store and see if we can settle out on the correct new struts and replacement tires

Assuming I am successful, should I replace the control arm bushings while this front end is torn apart? Any other parts? Is it best to buy an entire control arm assembly?

Thanks for help.
Old 11-14-2013 | 07:39 AM
  #14  
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If you are going to do the labor yourself, it is easier to get the entire LCA. Be absolutely sure that you get SS LCAs as they are different ball joints.

I do not know what the differences in the "complete" struts are. $245 is about what I've seen for Monroe Quick Struts. If GM sells a complete SS strut, that is your only other option besides a bare strut + bearing + springs + bellows + bumper.

Other parts: hubs, sway bar links and bushings. Inspect the CVs.

I am now thinking that the main difference between SS & LT/LS strut assemblies (besides valving maybe) is the springs are longer to make the car higher, which would have an effect on camber and maybe toe. I suppose you could just go buy some SS springs and replace the Quick Strut springs, springs shouldn't cost more than $100.

Last edited by donbrew; 11-14-2013 at 08:17 AM.
Old 11-14-2013 | 10:18 AM
  #15  
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Here is a write-up on replacing the entire Lower control Arms - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/replacing-lower-control-arms-44378/

You can replace just the rear bushings in your existing LCA's, however the LCA's do have to be removed and the old bushing pressed out and the new ones pressed in (some have done it with a big vice). The bushings in Canada were $80 each - however in the USA, they range from ~ $10 - $30.
Old 11-14-2013 | 10:24 AM
  #16  
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Quickstruts are NOT for an SS..The springs are taller, the SS at factory height are alot shorter then an LS or LT..That alone will knock your front end alignment all to hell. Wrong struts, wrong springs! LCA bushings..common wear item at that age...all depends on where/how you drive(road conditions)so doubt the struts were a major contributor.
Old 11-14-2013 | 01:53 PM
  #17  
whopper's Avatar
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The Monroe Quickstrut measurements for the LT/LS:

Overall length from the bottom of the strut, to the top of the lowest point of the top mounting plate (it is on an angle): 21.5 inches

Spring length from the bottom of the lower end of the coil, to the top of the plate holding the upper part of the spring: 10 3/8"

Outer Spring diameter: 5 7/8"

Not sure how that compares to the SS struts/springs.

Last edited by whopper; 11-15-2013 at 11:30 AM.
Old 11-14-2013 | 02:17 PM
  #18  
firemangeorge's Avatar
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Originally Posted by whopper
The Monroe Quickstrut measurements for the LT/LS:

Overall length to the bottom of the strut to the top of the lowest point of the mounting plate (it is on an angle): 21.5 inches

Spring length from the bottom of the lower end of the coil, to the top of the plate holding the upper part of the spring: 10 3/8"

Outer Spring diameter: 5 7/8"

Not sure how that compares to the SS struts/springs.
I'm guessing these measurements are with your car on the ground and not jacked up?
Anyhow. Some good numbers to compare by.

OR. A SS with stock rims and tire size should measure around 27.5 inches at the fender edge of the wheelwell straight down to the ground. Give or take a small bit either way.
If it's any where higher than 28 inches, it's most likely the wrong struts/assembly and will screw up the alignment.
Old 11-14-2013 | 02:47 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by IgottaWoody
Quickstruts are NOT for an SS..The springs are taller, the SS at factory height are alot shorter then an LS or LT..That alone will knock your front end alignment all to hell. Wrong struts, wrong springs! LCA bushings..common wear item at that age...all depends on where/how you drive(road conditions)so doubt the struts were a major contributor.
While I agree with you on your hypothesis regarding the alignment and height change, I WONDER WHY MOST PEOPLE SAY AN ALIGNMENT IS NOT NEEDED WHEN YOU LOWER THE CAR??????/
Old 11-14-2013 | 02:54 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Snoopy
While I agree with you on your hypothesis regarding the alignment and height change, I WONDER WHY MOST PEOPLE SAY AN ALIGNMENT IS NOT NEEDED WHEN YOU LOWER THE CAR??????/
Who said that? I have always said that's about the ONLY time you need to. The other is when you put "trick" tires on (way out of OE spec).

BTW, My 2011 LT with new Monroe Quick Struts and OEM tires measured 27.5 ground to top center of wheel opening.


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