SS lower control arm rebuild
#1
SS lower control arm rebuild
I gotta fix the rear bushing on both control arms on my 09 SS. I have seen many many posts about buy the entire unit , nope just fix what you got, wait auto parts will sell you stamped steel , dont use that only use cast alum etc etc.
So im gonna try to fix the control arms i have. What i need to know is i was about to order MOOG part #k201285 to replace rear bushing and moog part# k80567 to replace the ball joint.
I am just not 100% they are correct for the SS model. Can anyone verify these are the right parts.
So im gonna try to fix the control arms i have. What i need to know is i was about to order MOOG part #k201285 to replace rear bushing and moog part# k80567 to replace the ball joint.
I am just not 100% they are correct for the SS model. Can anyone verify these are the right parts.
#2
For the SS, that Moog number is wrong!
only your GM supplier has the correct LCA
Please see this list, and read carefully for the correct part numbers
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/comm...-thread-48833/
Lower Control Arm - SS models ONLY (FE5 suspension)
IMPORTANT: they are only available thru GM - No after-market suppliers make a compatible part at this time, even though they may say the parts they have are for all HHR's
- GM - P/N: 25930724 - Right
- GM - P/N: 25930725 - Left
(note: Do NOT substitute a FE1 or FE3 LCA - the ball joint stub on them is 20MM and is not compatible with the spindle on a FE5/SS which is 20.5MM)
Lower Control Arm Rebuild Parts
- Duralast Rear Bushing (autozone) P/N - FB782 (2.37" or 60.2mm outer diameter)
- MOOG "problem solver" Rear Bushing - K200792 - also K201285 which is zinc coated for use in aluminium LCAs
- MOOG Ball Joint - K80567 (require drilling out old one and bolting this in - FE1/3 ONLY - does NOT fit FE5)
only your GM supplier has the correct LCA
Please see this list, and read carefully for the correct part numbers
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/comm...-thread-48833/
Lower Control Arm - SS models ONLY (FE5 suspension)
IMPORTANT: they are only available thru GM - No after-market suppliers make a compatible part at this time, even though they may say the parts they have are for all HHR's
- GM - P/N: 25930724 - Right
- GM - P/N: 25930725 - Left
(note: Do NOT substitute a FE1 or FE3 LCA - the ball joint stub on them is 20MM and is not compatible with the spindle on a FE5/SS which is 20.5MM)
Lower Control Arm Rebuild Parts
- Duralast Rear Bushing (autozone) P/N - FB782 (2.37" or 60.2mm outer diameter)
- MOOG "problem solver" Rear Bushing - K200792 - also K201285 which is zinc coated for use in aluminium LCAs
- MOOG Ball Joint - K80567 (require drilling out old one and bolting this in - FE1/3 ONLY - does NOT fit FE5)
#5
I looked thru some other threads about this and the only thing I see is the stud diameter between the FE1/3 vs FE5. FE1/3 is 19.96mm vs FE5 20.5mm. That is a .022 inch difference in diameter. You could take shim stock (.010) and make a sleeve if need be. Yeah I know the answer "You can't do that!"
#8
This groove on this Moog ball joint for FE1 FE3 If you use this in the FE5 knuckle the pinch bolt can’t tighten up on this and can crack and break the knuckle
The retaining groove the pinch bolt slides though
#9
The pinch bolt goes into the groove to insure the stud does not pull out (sounds dirty). Ideally you would want the sleeve to also be held by the pinch bolt. I am assuming that the groove is also .022 smaller.
I am sure a machinist could figure it out, it is beyond my expertise.
That groove is the only thing keeping the stud in the knuckle when you install the smaller ball joint since the pinch doesn't close enough.
I am sure there is a ball joint that meets the specs. I corresponded with the Moog catalog guy; they have no book of specs like they used to have and they are unwilling to take a micrometer into the warehouse and check through thousands of items. Used to be a good parts guy could find a part by looking in a book and matching measurements.
I am sure a machinist could figure it out, it is beyond my expertise.
That groove is the only thing keeping the stud in the knuckle when you install the smaller ball joint since the pinch doesn't close enough.
I am sure there is a ball joint that meets the specs. I corresponded with the Moog catalog guy; they have no book of specs like they used to have and they are unwilling to take a micrometer into the warehouse and check through thousands of items. Used to be a good parts guy could find a part by looking in a book and matching measurements.