Stabilizer Sway Bar Links -- What Length?
03-30-2021 | 08:47 PM
#1
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 10-27-2020
Posts: 28
From: Suburban Philadelphia
Stabilizer Sway Bar Links -- What Length?
Greetings once again.
An oil change & tire rotation are due shortly for my 2007 2400 LT ("Duchess") and since I had both leaky front struts replaced last month for state inspection, I wanted to add new stabilizer sway bar links while I had the wheels off. But in looking on line for the parts, vendors like RockAuto list two different lengths for an LT, one at 9.86" and another at 11.8".
Short of getting under the car with a tape measure -- which is doable, but a pain -- is there any way to discover which is the correct size for my vehicle?
Any special tricks I should know before doing this replacement?
Thanks in advance.
An oil change & tire rotation are due shortly for my 2007 2400 LT ("Duchess") and since I had both leaky front struts replaced last month for state inspection, I wanted to add new stabilizer sway bar links while I had the wheels off. But in looking on line for the parts, vendors like RockAuto list two different lengths for an LT, one at 9.86" and another at 11.8".
Short of getting under the car with a tape measure -- which is doable, but a pain -- is there any way to discover which is the correct size for my vehicle?
Any special tricks I should know before doing this replacement?
Thanks in advance.
03-31-2021 | 06:22 AM
#6
Administrator
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 37,829
From: Welland,Ont Canada
The Moog sway bar endlinks part number K750012 are correct length and have grease fittings.
No real tricks, just make sure to soak the nuts in penetrating oil , a pair of 10 inch vide grips on the ball stub and an 18 mm wrench, preferably a deep well 6 point socket and a 24 inch breaker bar to get them out. You will have some fun but it’s not that bad of a job. Torque the new nuts to 59 ft lbs. and check them again after 500 miles.
No real tricks, just make sure to soak the nuts in penetrating oil , a pair of 10 inch vide grips on the ball stub and an 18 mm wrench, preferably a deep well 6 point socket and a 24 inch breaker bar to get them out. You will have some fun but it’s not that bad of a job. Torque the new nuts to 59 ft lbs. and check them again after 500 miles.
Last edited by Oldblue; 03-31-2021 at 07:11 AM.
03-31-2021 | 12:48 PM
#7
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 10-27-2020
Posts: 28
From: Suburban Philadelphia
The Moog sway bar endlinks part number K750012 are correct length and have grease fittings.
No real tricks, just make sure to soak the nuts in penetrating oil , a pair of 10 inch vide grips on the ball stub and an 18 mm wrench, preferably a deep well 6 point socket and a 24 inch breaker bar to get them out. You will have some fun but it’s not that bad of a job. Torque the new nuts to 59 ft lbs. and check them again after 500 miles.
No real tricks, just make sure to soak the nuts in penetrating oil , a pair of 10 inch vide grips on the ball stub and an 18 mm wrench, preferably a deep well 6 point socket and a 24 inch breaker bar to get them out. You will have some fun but it’s not that bad of a job. Torque the new nuts to 59 ft lbs. and check them again after 500 miles.
I had read that removing them can be a real pain, but I asked the mechanic who replaced the struts last month if he had any problems with them and he said, "No." Given that the nuts have been turned recently, I'm hoping — fingers crossed — that when I'm rotating the tires in another month or so they'll spin off and slap back on without too much colorful language. Thanks for the torque settings.
03-31-2021 | 08:50 PM
#9
Senior Member
Joined: 02-01-2006
Posts: 1,421
From: lockport,ny
The MOOG replacement links have flats on the base of the ball so you can use an open-end wrench to hold it from spinning while you tighten the nut on the other side of the bracket.
The factory ones don't, and if the ball starts spinning inside the joint when you try to take it apart, then I knock the link off the ball with a hammer and grab the ball with vise-grips.
In one particularly bad case of rust, I used a cutoff wheel to remove it.
Steve
The factory ones don't, and if the ball starts spinning inside the joint when you try to take it apart, then I knock the link off the ball with a hammer and grab the ball with vise-grips.
In one particularly bad case of rust, I used a cutoff wheel to remove it.
Steve
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