ChiTownHHR

Does anyone by chance know the weight capacity for any of the lowering springs, mainly for the rear?

I have 4 AWES10P (Audiobahn Eternal) Subs, an amp for each sub, a capacitor and 2 Yellowtops (on order) that I will be adding (hopefully) by my birthday this month. The subs are about 27 lbs. each, the mono amps are easily 12 lbs. and the capacitor is about 15ish lbs.. Now, the 225 extra lbs. isn't that big of a deal but all said and done using MDF for the whole project I fear may make the "rear-end" sag requiring me to go to the surgeon for "implants".

I guess what I'd like to know is if it would be better to go with a lesser drop than the Gold-lines to offset the weight possibly giving the HHR a level ride height?

ANY help would be GREATLY appreciate!

Thanks,
Jeremy

P.S. A 4' X 8' sheet of MDF is about 96 lbs. and the project will require atleast 2 sheets. (417 total lbs. give or take)

SoCalHHR

Coming from experience, I think you're going to need to add air shocks to compensate for that kind of load. Most lowered HHR's have a tough time with a full tank of gas & 2 people in back!

TruckSHOP.com

You may not even need drop springs in back with that kind of weight over and behind the rear wheels! You might end up needing helper bags (inside the springs), or air shocks, cause it'll ride like mush and bottom out. Have a couple 200+ lb buddies just sit inside the liftgate and see what size drop you get

ChiTownHHR

If that weight is going to have that much of an impact, I may have to fiberglass another box to house everything, though the one I have made to "hang" on the rear "holder things" in the cargo area is still unfinished. Being such the procrastinator is going to make for a long job

Thanks guys for the input. Now to make a decision. If anyone has an alternative idea, please let me know. I'm not much of a fiberglasser due to the time consuming nature of it.

Acrylic or plexiglass might not be a bad idea though Acrylic is expensive and I know of no place to get the amount of plexiglass I would need.

Thank you again.

P.S. On a side note, the back seats may be coming out as I never use them, so displacing the weight a bit might help? Any thoughts?

captain howdy

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Harpozep

My Buick Rainer has bags and Bilstines stock. The spring bags automatically add/subtract air to a pre determined ride height. The air compressor goes on as needed and I have a compressor hose with an air gage as a stock extra from the compressor setup.

Can the HHR airbag controller keep a constant ride height, or is it just access to a number of manual presets? Both would be ideal of course. That is, being able to change as wanted AND not worrying as passengers embark/disembark and the ride keeps self adjusting.

ChiTownHHR

Thanks for the link, CH. I can't hardly justify paying $350 for a 4'X8' piece of Acrylic though. Ouch, just ouch to that price.

captain howdy

Yeah I know. But at least they have it. One of the many good things about McMaster-Carr is the have cast acrylic flourescent sheets. It looks real nice with some neon lights hidden, especially if you have a design or logo cut into it so it the design glows.

ChiTownHHR

There are no doubts about how great it would look, but as I mentioned, that price is just killer.

I found some MDF alternative, I believe it was called "WheatBoard" or something similar. That idea brings back bad memories of when I had 4 Orion 10's in my '98 Regal GS 25th Anniv. I ignorantly made the box out of particle board . Anyone that has been around stereo systems with that much pressure knows what particle board does. I definately wasn't feeling like a at that moment.

Anyone with any viable options? I normally use 3/4" MDF, possibly using 1/2" MDF may work in my favor, but would it be strong enough and not flex with that kind of pressure? I've always known MDF to be a superior building material, but never messed with a thickness less than 3/4".

captain howdy

I'm the same as you, I like to use 3/4 MDF.