alexrckid

found the SOURCE of one of my "clunking/knocking" sounds in the front end. can see where the (one inch) sway bar makes contact with the (right side, in this case) aluminum control arm. there's even slight wear marks on the arm and bar(more pronounced on the arm) where contact has been made. dont see it on the left side of the HHR(2006/LT model)....only the right side. have new struts(monroe quick struts) as well as new (rear) control arm bushings(MOOG solid mounts). had this contact condition prior to replacing these parts......also replaced the sway bar links with moog units.is it possible that the sway bar moves side to side..?? the sway bar bushings have no deflection in them....................

solman98

Sure this isn't the problem? Been lots of complaints with these struts on HHR's.

barfan1

Monroe quickstruts do not work on the HHR, the spring is for the Cobalt, not the HHR. If you have your old struts you need to put the old springs on your new struts. The springs rub and will fatigue quickly, I went throught this 4 months ago and believe me, the springs will not last. If your sway bar is hitting your control arm, you probably got the wrong length end links when you replaced them, there are two different lengths depending on what suspension your model of HHR was equipped with, you may want to check that out. It sounds like you got the long links when you probably needed the shorter ones.

donbrew

A) are the sway bar links 12 inch or 10 inch?
B) have you looked the control arm bushings?

In my case, both were the problem. MOSTLY the control arm. On the right side only in my case, too. Check RockAuto for new control arms around $75 each, only 4 bolts to replace, no alignment needed.

alexrckid

replaced the links with the same length(10 inch) that i took off. sway bar bushings have no "play" in them. but, do have energy suspension pieces to replace the stockers. car's got 30,000 miles on it. measured the body9fender lip0 height before doing the strut swap.....was 27 1/4 before...EXACT same now after doing the swap and putting bout 200 miles on the struts. even with a different spring rate, dont think that the sway should be contacting the control arm.........especially with the wheels pointed straight ahead when i hear the clunk from the contact......had this deal before and after swapping out the struts and control arm bushings. what, if anything,

donbrew

The Sway Bar DOES move side-to-side, especially if you have the "greasable" type. In my case replacing the right control arm solved that particular problem; the interference on the right side. I am currently in the process of rebuilding the entire suspension and brakes, front and rear except for the tie rod ends inward.

I hope to get another 220K out of the engine & trans.

alexrckid

funny....the right control arm's where i see the sway/arm contact. what was wrong with your original control arm..?? was it the aluminum type of arm or stamped steel..?? does the aluminum arm take a set(bend) somehow over time..???? EVERYTHING on my HHR is fine except for the annoying sway/control contact...runs like a top, otherwise.

donbrew

The rear bushing was trashed. I just replaced the other side today, and it was also shredded, but not so that it could be seen while installed.

I have decided that after 200K to install new control arms (cast,complete) new front bearings (again) new front brakes (complete) new rear brakes (complete) new rear springs new rear shocks (again) new rear bearings new front struts/springs/mount (strut again).

My guess, is the other side is bad/not matched. Control arm are Sooo easy to replace, why not? RockAuto less than $80 each, less than an hour each labor. And you get the front bushing and the ball joint.

alexrckid

i hear ya, donbrew, about the EASY control arm replacement.....ESPECIALLY if the pressed-in bushing's already in place. i had to have a local machine shop remove/install(press in) the new MOOG's that i have now........the old GM bushings came out in pieces...........now, just gotta go ahead and replace the sway bar bushings with the energy suspension one's.........

donbrew

The sway bar bushings are way easy, except if you insists on the grease fitting type! And I forgot the new axles at $60 each. If you put in the MOOG bushings that are solid rubber, then you need to replace both sides to match them up, there seem to be several versions of the bushings, and my guess is that they need to match L to R for handling. The OEM ones have holes thru them, the new Dorman arms have gouged out portions, the NAPA part is solid rubber. I assume the different configs for different characteristics and need to match. The basic, if you fix one side then fix the other for GPs.