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Wheel Hub Assemblies

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Old 06-27-2014 | 10:54 AM
  #1  
Beaglelover's Avatar
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From: Kansas
Wheel Hub Assemblies

Front, driver side wheel bearing going out on 07 LT2 with ABS. I want to go ahead and replace both front wheel hub assemblies. Suggestions on what brand to get, warranties, installation, etc.?
Old 06-27-2014 | 11:01 AM
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Give the search a go. That is probably the second most posted subject.
As to favorite brand, they are like belly buttons...
Old 06-27-2014 | 08:22 PM
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flip a coin, I'm on my 4th set in 166.000 miles , Ive had AC Delco, F.A.G., Timken and now have Chinese mystery brand they all last about the same mileage
Old 07-05-2014 | 10:42 AM
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I've taken this vehicle to 3 different mechanics and gotten 3 differing opinions. One says I just need to replace the left front wheel hub assembly. He is a "suspension specialist" and wants over $700.00 for the job. The second one says to replace both hub assemblies. He will do both for about $600.00. The third one (NTB, thought I would try the national chain) says it's not the hub assemblies but "only" the front control arms. NTB quoted me $680.00 for the job. Auto mechanics are like doctors. Each one has an opinion, each have the latest technologies that the layman can't understand but must pay for anyway, each get paid VERY well, and neither one offers a refund if the repair doesn't fix the problem.
Old 07-05-2014 | 01:24 PM
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whopper's Avatar
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Replacing a hub is probably one of the easiest "maintenance" jobs - to charge $700 to replace one hub is absolute robbery!!!!!

There is lots of info here and prices of the different brands, sources for hubs, as well as a "how-to" article. It's a max 1 hour job.

Now you have to figure out why the one mechanic says it's lower control arms and not hubs. LCA's too are well covered here, and also take about an hour a side to do, and are not that difficult a job either.
Old 07-06-2014 | 01:49 PM
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Both the hubs and LCAs being bad would not surprise me. However, the "suspension" guy would know what to look for in the LCA.
MSRP for a hub is $360 + labor, nobody pays MSRP! You can get them online from a GM dealer for way under $300 each, you can get them from NAPA for under $200 each or Ebay for under $100 each.

MAX 45 minutes labor per side.
Old 07-06-2014 | 06:57 PM
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you'll need a lot of busted knuckle sauve if you don't have the correct tools or the skills but a quick search for the how to here on the site and Bob's your Uncle, but he won't change the hub for you!!
Old 07-06-2014 | 09:39 PM
  #8  
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From: Savanna Illinois
Beaglelover,
here are some links to help you out
Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly-Front | 2006 Chevrolet HHR 4 Cylinders D 2.2L SFI DOHC | AutoZone.com

and this

You can see how easy it really is to do with basic tools.

Be sure to use decent jack stands of some kind, a torque wrench is needed but mine only goes to 150 ft lb so I use my 2' breaker bar to turn it about 1/6 of a turn more I may be over torqueing a little but so far all is good.
Old 08-03-2014 | 06:25 PM
  #9  
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Joined: 08-06-2013
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From: Chicago, IL
front wheel bearing hub - DIY

My 2007 HHR LT has 97K miles. In the last year I have replaced quite a bit of the front suspension including struts, control arms, stabilizer bar, brake rotor & pads. For the last two weeks the whirring and high pitch grinding sounds took me to searches including this forum to know it is time for the wheel bearings to be replaced.
I decided to try one side first as the driver's side was apparently the loudest. Purchased an OEM replacement from Chevy dealer. MLRSP of $209 but the discount as a customer who purchased the vehicle from same dealer, I paid $146.
I used a loaner tool called the Sliding Hammer and it did the trick. First after wheel lugs are loosened, jack up vehicle safely and then remove tire. Spray penetrating lubricant on the axle nut, the three rear mounting hub bolts and the brake caliper bolts. Using a breaker bar on my 30mm socket I was able to take off the axle nut. Then remove the brake caliper being sure to hang it off of your strut. Don't crimp the brake hose. Remove the rotor. From behind the knuckle remove the three hub mounting bolt. Attach the slide hammer flange onto the hub wheel posts and tighten across using large washers with your wheel lugs. Attach the slide hammer and screw it into the hammer flange. I think I used four or five good slides and off it came. I then used a wire brush and a rag to clean off the rust and debris caked on the inside of the assembly.
Then I installed the new hub bearing and put everything back on in reverse order. It went so easily that I immediately went to my local AutoZone and purchased the Timken Hub Bearing Assembly ($88) and went back at it and replaced the passenger side bearing. On a scale of 1-10 of difficulty I would rate this as a 7 if you have the right tools. https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...357dad6593c6cb
Old 08-03-2014 | 08:34 PM
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Why the slide hammer? A love tap with a framing hammer usually works.


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