Jallen8482

Hello and thanks in advance for any help I may receive. I have scoured forums for two days and have not found what I am looking for. I have an 07 HHR. Two days ago i was in a relatively mild accident. Just dented the drivers door. Car ran fine afterwards. Drove it 45 minutes home and parked it. I went out the next day and it wouldnt crank over. The dash reads Power steering and low fuel. It has half a tank of fuel but during this no crank issue the guage doesnt work. I went out an hour or two later and unhooked the battery for 15 minutes. Still no crank. The next day (yesterday) i went out and it fired right up. Power steering worked fine the dash didnt read low fuel or power steering no more. I drove it around the block and it shut off and i had to push it home. It read power steering and low fuel once again. I tried starting it in nuetral. Nothing. I tried reseating the fuses and fuse box. Nothing. I tested the ground by the radiator and the positive on the side of the fuse box. 12.40 volts and doesnt drop when the key is turned to crank. I tested the ground on the transmission. Same thing. I tested the alternator and it read the same and i checked it for ground as well and it is still 12.40. All i hear is the relay engage when key is turned. I dont hear the fuel pump either. After 30 minutes of fidgeting under the hood on grounds and positive connections i turned the key and heard the fuel pump and the car cranked. I drove it to the grocery store. Shut it off got groceries. Came home just fine. Went back out last night and it started and ran just fine multiple times. I made sure to let it run to recharge the battery from multiple starts. The battery is 5 months old. The alternator is less than 7 months old. This morning i go out to take my son to school and guess what, no crank. No amount of fidgeting with ground wires worked this time. Re tested all the same grounds again and they all read 12.30+. The dash once again reads power steering and low fuel. If it says that on the dash it will not crank. The interior lights and dash work fine. The radio works fine. The windows and locks work. Everything works except no crank and im pretty sure the fuel pump isnt cycling with the key when the dash reads that as well. Im assuming its a ground issue somewhere or maybe the fuse box has a short in it. Im hoping someone else has had this problem and know what ground wire affects only the ability to crank over and fuel pump/guage.

RJ_RS_SS_350

: welcomewagon: to the forums!!

Have the ignition related recalls been performed?

mongo

Try reseating the fuses and relays in the box under the hood. Not saying that's the definite cause, but I always try the free and easy troubleshooting first.

Jallen8482

I am not sure if they have been. I have only had this vehicle for a year. Im not sure what all issues the ignition causes but from what i have read it doesnt do any of the things a bad one does. I could be wrong though. It has never had the key stuck in the ignition. I have two keys as well as two fobs. It is also a remote start optioned vehicle.

mongo

Does it start with the remote every time? If the transponder for the chip in the key is having issues the car will not start. I've had a few where you had to hold the key in a specific position for it to work

Jallen8482

I am not sure if they have been. I have only had this vehicle for a year. Im not sure what all issues the ignition causes but from what i have read it doesnt do any of the things a bad one does. I could be wrong though. It has never had the key stuck in the ignition. I have two keys as well as two fobs. It is also a remote start optioned vehicle. Which doesnt work because of a stuck open thermostat.

donbrew

Is there 12 volts on the large wire on the starter? That comes directly from the connection on the side of the fuse box.
Then check for 12 volts on the smaller wire when the key is turned to start. That checks the start circuit.
Make sure the run/crank relays are securely seated. Make sure the starter relay is securely seated.
If there is no label on the fuse box it is in the Owner Manual (available via link in my sig).

Sounds to me like the fuses and relays were loose from the factory (like most) and one or more got cattywampus in the collision. Check the fuses and relays on the inside fuse box too.

Check for recalls: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/gm-r...-status-50716/

Replacing t-stat is a 2 bolt job. Use ONLY ACDelco 131-158 GM P/N 12622410, accept no other part number.

Oldblue

12.3 volts is a dead battery, yes change the thermostat, fresh Dexcool 50/50 coolant.
the computer can’t function correctly while it’s directing voltage to the starter. The fuses , relays and grounds could have been dislodged in the accident, but if it started and ran, then the voltage was ran down, seems to me like a defective or dead battery . At 7 months old , does it have any kind of warranty?

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...l-p0128-24493/

Jallen8482

I have reseated and checked all fuses multiple times. Visual inspection only. I can hear the crank relay click when the key is turned. The fuel pump does not cycle when the key is turned into the on position. I seen in another thread here where a guy had the exact readout on dash as I do with no crank and he jumped a ground from the ECM and it solved his problem. I also tried that and it didnt help me. Im wondering if the ECM is just going bad or has a loose connection. Im not sure. Im going to pull the fuse box and look for signs of wear or bad connections.

donbrew

The RUN relay is what to check. bad ECM and innards of fuse box are last on the list of suspects.
The crank relay clicking rules out the BCM. Is there 12 volts getting to the start solenoid?
The messages on the dash are from a bad 12 volts to the fuse box, either bad battery or bad wires. Running ground wires to modules is very dangerous; if you accidentally cause a spark you will kill the module.

If there is 12 volts to the starter motor and 12 volts to the solenoid the problem is the starter, if there is no voltage to the solenoid the problem is between the solenoid and the relay. That is why I asked those unanswered questions.