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2006 Part # Clarification

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Old 01-03-2020 | 04:01 PM
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RainmanQQ's Avatar
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2006 Part # Clarification

HI: Looking to replace the Coolant Temperature Sensor that provides the signal back to the ECM. I downloaded the parts manual that was listed in one of the sticky's, and it is showing the part number as 12608814. When I went to rockauto.com, it shows 2 numbers, 19236568 & 12608814, however for 12608814, it says I need to use a specific pigtail connector PT1798. Any idea of what the difference is between the 2 part numbers? I really would prefer not to splice into any of the factory wiring. All the CTS's I've replaced in the past on my GM vehicles have always been plug & play. Some of the items on E-bay have a white connector and some have a black connector, I haven't had the chance to remove the old one yet to see which color is currently in there now.

Regards, Rainman.

Add to Cart ACDELCO 2134514 {#19236568} Sensor; Professional Info
$12.82
Add to Cart ACDELCO 2134333 {#12608814, 15326388, 213953} Sensor; GM Original Equipment Info
FitsUSE TOGETHER WITH MATING CONNECTOR PT1798; 4 speed Automatic trans.
orTrans. code 5T45MI; USE TOGETHER WITH MATING CONNECTOR PT1798; 5 speed Manual trans.
$14.78
Old 01-03-2020 | 04:06 PM
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Doc brown's Avatar
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It appears that GM redesigned the part. I know this was the case with Vapor Canister Vent Valves on the HHR and GMT trucks. You had to buy a pigtail adapter to plug them in. Notice that 12608814 is in parentheses. That's an old part #.
Old 01-03-2020 | 04:13 PM
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RainmanQQ's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Doc brown
It appears that GM redesigned the part. I know this was the case with Vapor Canister Vent Valves on the HHR and GMT trucks. You had to buy a pigtail adapter to plug them in. Notice that 12608814 is in parentheses. That's an old part #.
I just took a quick look, and mine has the black electrical connector on it. I was hoping to use that 1st part number since that looks exactly like the original, and no wires to cut.
Old 01-03-2020 | 04:17 PM
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Just curious why you're replacing the engine temperature sender ?
If the reason is because you loose the dash temperature readout, then that's probably not the bad part. If you're getting no readout and just dashes (-----) then 99% of the time it's because of a bad thermostat.

(If this isn't the issue, just disregard)
Old 01-03-2020 | 04:29 PM
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RainmanQQ's Avatar
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Originally Posted by firemangeorge
Just curious why you're replacing the engine temperature sender ?
If the reason is because you loose the dash temperature readout, then that's probably not the bad part. If you're getting no readout and just dashes (-----) then 99% of the time it's because of a bad thermostat.

(If this isn't the issue, just disregard)

I always like to change this and the Oxygen sensors when I pick up a used vehicle, as those are 2 of the most critical sensors regarding fuel mileage. Inaccurate readings from old cruddy sensors will definitely richen up the air/fuel mixture and decrease gas mileage. Most of the time they are original to the vehicle, unless someone had to change them due to a fault code.
Old 01-03-2020 | 04:49 PM
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OK. I understand.
If that's your reasoning (fuel mileage/sensors) then I would suggest changing the thermostat also since it is more prone to failure than the ECTS and works in conjunction with that sensor.
Also the MAF sensor. Either clean it or replace it.
Old 01-03-2020 | 04:50 PM
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Doc brown's Avatar
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Originally Posted by RainmanQQ
I just took a quick look, and mine has the black electrical connector on it. I was hoping to use that 1st part number since that looks exactly like the original, and no wires to cut.
If you buy the pigtail adapter that's recommended it will be plug and play. It's annoying, I know. But you should never have to cut and splice wires.
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