AC Issues
07-04-2024, 11:10 AM
#11
Thread Starter
Join Date: 06-29-2024
Location: Carrollton Texas
Posts: 5
Greetings everyone and I hope you are having a great 4th.
I started this post on 6/30 and have been working on the problem every day since, mostly all day. I have traced wires, checked components, grew more grey hair but didn't give up. I was on the HHR Facebook page and found someone smarter than all of us,and was given a suggestion by the subscriber (I don't remember his name or I would send him a gift card) and he ask me if I had reset my BCM. He told me to unhook the battery for a hour or so, I left it off all night, and hook the battery back up and that will reset the computers in the car. He said it will sometime fix a multitude of problems. So, I did that. Went out this morning, hooked the battery back up and now the AC works like a charm. Got the charge up where it should be and now ready to put it all back together.Thanks to everyone that replied to this thread for your suggestions. I guess this is a trick we can all keep in our toolbox.
I started this post on 6/30 and have been working on the problem every day since, mostly all day. I have traced wires, checked components, grew more grey hair but didn't give up. I was on the HHR Facebook page and found someone smarter than all of us,and was given a suggestion by the subscriber (I don't remember his name or I would send him a gift card) and he ask me if I had reset my BCM. He told me to unhook the battery for a hour or so, I left it off all night, and hook the battery back up and that will reset the computers in the car. He said it will sometime fix a multitude of problems. So, I did that. Went out this morning, hooked the battery back up and now the AC works like a charm. Got the charge up where it should be and now ready to put it all back together.Thanks to everyone that replied to this thread for your suggestions. I guess this is a trick we can all keep in our toolbox.
07-04-2024, 11:44 AM
#12
Moderator
Join Date: 05-01-2014
Location: California
Posts: 8,134
Yes Oldblue often recommends that, the battery lobotomy. Although only a short disconnect, maybe 30 minutes. We probably would have got to that, but you weren't answering any of our questions, so...
2008 has a problem with the RCDLR. If the battery is disconnected for a longer period, some functionality is lost, I think it is TPMS. But your 2011 wouldn't have that issue.
Glad it's fixed!
2008 has a problem with the RCDLR. If the battery is disconnected for a longer period, some functionality is lost, I think it is TPMS. But your 2011 wouldn't have that issue.
Glad it's fixed!
07-04-2024, 02:55 PM
#13
Platinum Member
Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 11,366
Doing a battery lobotomy will clear any trouble codes/CEL’s in the BCM. ( Donbrew asked about any CEL’s -Check Engine Lights but you never answered him.
Certain trouble codes that are performance related will disable functions like AC compressor or cruise control. I’ll make a guess that you just “cleared the codes” and now the AC works again. I’ll also bet that trouble code will probably return and disable the AC again.
If you would have returned to this thread and answered those questions we could have helped. I was waiting on Donbrew’s question to be answered about the CEL but you didn’t. My next suggestion was going to be that the BCM was shutting it down.
Oh well. At least it’s partially fixed.
Certain trouble codes that are performance related will disable functions like AC compressor or cruise control. I’ll make a guess that you just “cleared the codes” and now the AC works again. I’ll also bet that trouble code will probably return and disable the AC again.
If you would have returned to this thread and answered those questions we could have helped. I was waiting on Donbrew’s question to be answered about the CEL but you didn’t. My next suggestion was going to be that the BCM was shutting it down.
Oh well. At least it’s partially fixed.
07-05-2024, 06:59 AM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-27-2021
Location: Alabama
Posts: 427
You say low pressure side has 37 psi and high side has about the same? ….I assume those pressures are static,…meaning that the compressor was not running. That tells me there is not enough refrigerant in the system.
Now, if you had 37 psi on low side and about 180-200 psi on high side with compressor running that would be close to right (depends on ambient temp.). I think Old Blue posted a r134 cheat sheet pressures chart I shared somewhere on the site. If cant find it I can send you a copy.
Now, if you had 37 psi on low side and about 180-200 psi on high side with compressor running that would be close to right (depends on ambient temp.). I think Old Blue posted a r134 cheat sheet pressures chart I shared somewhere on the site. If cant find it I can send you a copy.
07-05-2024, 07:17 AM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-27-2021
Location: Alabama
Posts: 427
yes, I read that. What I dont understand is….he says he jumped the compressor clutch to make it engage with an external source and still no change in refrigerant line temps. Assuming the compressor is good….there would have to be a pressure differential similar to what I mentioned….if there is enough refrigerant in the system right?
07-05-2024, 07:51 AM
#18
Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg,VA
Posts: 25,326
Doesn't anybody know how to explore a website?
Click on "Forums" at the top left then choose from the dropdown. You will find things like a "How to" area and an "common parts" area.
Or, gasp, use the search tool.
Click on "Forums" at the top left then choose from the dropdown. You will find things like a "How to" area and an "common parts" area.
Or, gasp, use the search tool.
07-11-2024, 08:21 PM
#19
Join Date: 06-24-2020
Location: CA
Posts: 4
Diode testing value?
Hey there Fallguy - Thanks for the post. May I ask what the ac clutch diode testing values were and/or what it should be? I tested mine and it said 5 megaohms. Thanks man!
Greetings. I have a 2011 HHR with AC issues and I need some help or suggestions. It quit blowing cold and I checked the low-pressure line and it was around 37lbs, the high side read close to the same number. The first thing I did was to change out the expansion valve, vac and refill the system and still no cold air. Feeling the lines neither one was cold and was ambient temperature. I felt like there was no flow so I changed out the compressor, vac and filled, still no cold air. The original compressor ran when I first started diagnostics and I noticed the new one was not running so checking the relays, fuses, diode, controls inside the car and finding nothing shorted or blown I got out the OEM meter and flew into action. Testing the relay and diode both were good. AC fuse is good and getting power. I checked continuity in the wiring between the fuse and the compressor and it was good but not getting power. I jumped the compressor connector with an auxiliary 12-volt source and the compressor clutch engaged. I started the engine, with the compressor engaged but there was no cold air as I would have expected, the AC lines remained warm. I checked continuity through the wire from the AC connector that I assume goes back to the BCM for the call for AC signal and calling for AC there was none. I really need a schematic for this system if anyone has one or any idea what I have going. The vehicle has 178000 miles but is in pristine shape for a 13-year-old car. I live in Texas and really need AC for this 100+ degree heat.
Thanks in advance for any help you may have.
Thanks in advance for any help you may have.
Last edited by RJ_RS_SS_350; 07-11-2024 at 10:03 PM.