AUTO START run time change?
02-08-2012, 06:40 PM
#11
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Join Date: 11-23-2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 8,210
02-08-2012, 08:37 PM
#14
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg,VA
Posts: 25,326
Blend Door sounds about right. The temperature reads properly and has no issues with the old issue I had showing ( _ _ _ ) and the check engine light being on.
Both gauges have no issue reading the temperature!
Here's the thing though. Once I start driving it down the road. It gets hotter, quick. Just idling though, it stays around 162*F.
When driving, the heat coming out of the vents is normal to me. Basically the same temp as my 2008 HHR was. No difference but, my 2008 hhr would reach that temp at idle too. Never had an issue with the Run time on the 2008. It would warm up and defrost the windshield with ease.
Kinda thinking, maybe this thermostat releases prematurely causing the radiator fluid to not heat up enough. Basically, it holds enough for the hhr's computer to read the temperature but, releases sooner then a factory thermostat would. Allowing the coolant to circulate early and get prematurely cooled.
***ALSO***
Kinda wondering if maybe once, I start driving the vibration causes the blend door to open the rest of the way to full heat.
Not a big deal to me. Just would be nice to work out the bugs. I don't mind starting the car myself and heating it up by giving it a little gas. I just like things to work like they where designed to work.
Any help would be great! Thanks, in advance for your time.
Both gauges have no issue reading the temperature!
Here's the thing though. Once I start driving it down the road. It gets hotter, quick. Just idling though, it stays around 162*F.
When driving, the heat coming out of the vents is normal to me. Basically the same temp as my 2008 HHR was. No difference but, my 2008 hhr would reach that temp at idle too. Never had an issue with the Run time on the 2008. It would warm up and defrost the windshield with ease.
Kinda thinking, maybe this thermostat releases prematurely causing the radiator fluid to not heat up enough. Basically, it holds enough for the hhr's computer to read the temperature but, releases sooner then a factory thermostat would. Allowing the coolant to circulate early and get prematurely cooled.
***ALSO***
Kinda wondering if maybe once, I start driving the vibration causes the blend door to open the rest of the way to full heat.
Not a big deal to me. Just would be nice to work out the bugs. I don't mind starting the car myself and heating it up by giving it a little gas. I just like things to work like they where designed to work.
Any help would be great! Thanks, in advance for your time.
I have cleared all of my bubbles out now that I got a new engine, blown head gasket causes bubbles and high pressure = coolant low, no refill from bottle. And the mechanic that installed the new engine did not fill the coolant correctly, fixed now.
If you run the engine with the pressure cap off up to operating temp and see bubbles in the coolant, or keep being able to burp it by squeezing the hose more than a time or two. You got problems.
Having said all of that... mine goes hot and cold on the highway while the DIC temp stays constant.
02-09-2012, 09:44 AM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 11-12-2011
Location: Clear Spring, MD
Posts: 136
No issues with bubbles. Coolant is at correct levels. Inside the radiator and the Refill container. No big deal. Thanks guys for the help. I don't mind it running cold at idle.
Better then over heating I guess.
Better then over heating I guess.
02-09-2012, 10:37 AM
#16
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Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,037
02-09-2012, 03:56 PM
#17
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg,VA
Posts: 25,326
The problem is, if the coolant level is low the temp reading won't always alert you to overheating until it's too late. Refer to my "new engine", the gauge went from 196 to 240 in a blink. The temperature is the temp of whatever the probe is in; if it is air, coolant or slag.
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