Broken guide bolt
#11
If the bolt head is down in the oil pan , there’s room for it under the wind age tray
Here’s the bottom of the block where the crankshaft is above the main bearing girdle.
Here’s the oil pan, it’s deep enough for the 10 mm bolt head to live down there, I would drop the oil pan, just to be sure.
Here’s the bottom of the block where the crankshaft is above the main bearing girdle.
Here’s the oil pan, it’s deep enough for the 10 mm bolt head to live down there, I would drop the oil pan, just to be sure.
#12
Why? How is it going to get past the screen, the pickup tube or anything to get anywhere it could possibly do damage? There is gravity to hold the bolt head down at the lowest point it can find.
Unnecessary angst.
Anybody read?
The OP stated that it broke when he was INSTALLING the guide as a final step in replacing the chain and guides.
Another argument for having a 1/4 inch torque wrench.
Unnecessary angst.
Anybody read?
The OP stated that it broke when he was INSTALLING the guide as a final step in replacing the chain and guides.
Another argument for having a 1/4 inch torque wrench.
#14
Why? How is it going to get past the screen, the pickup tube or anything to get anywhere it could possibly do damage? There is gravity to hold the bolt head down at the lowest point it can find.
Unnecessary angst.
Anybody read?
The OP stated that it broke when he was INSTALLING the guide as a final step in replacing the chain and guides.
Another argument for having a 1/4 inch torque wrench.
Unnecessary angst.
Anybody read?
The OP stated that it broke when he was INSTALLING the guide as a final step in replacing the chain and guides.
Another argument for having a 1/4 inch torque wrench.
It's more likely that the chain ground the head off, which would mean that the chain was very loose for quite a while. So I agree that the valves should be checked for damage.
I would take the chain back off, and perform a cylinder leak down test. If everything is good, continue drilling out the bolt, with the proper size drill bit, and EZ out.
If the leak down test is bad news, leakage past the valves, or into the crankcase, then you need to consider replacing the engine.
#15
Wow! You guys are amazing. I didn't even think to check back that there have been responses to my post. Turns out the notifications were going to my spam.
So. let me clear a few things up.
Everything you are looking at is new. I have completely replaced everything and was looking to button this job up when I noticed that the bolt was taken off by the original timing chain.
The original chains were in place when I started and a matter of fact the car idled perfectly and ran smooth at low speed. I did have the dreaded P0016 code and it had a clanky start. After the clanky start the engine ran very smooth.
When I opened up the plate many of the guides were broken and I had to fish out the pieces. So I never noticed that the bolt was gone until I was installing that guide.
I tried to drill out the bolt so that I can use my bolt extractor it but it seems as someone said I may have been using a bit that was a bit to big. Also The engine is dropped right now to the point that it is resting on the sub frame with the jack and block under it as back up.
Right now I can't get a straight shot at the hole and I have been drilling from an angle. So I'm thinking to drop the sub frame a bit today so that I can get straight access with the drill. I'm going to try with a smaller bit but I fear I may have damaged it beyond the point of extraction at this point so I may be looking at developing a plan B.
Again, guys thank you all for your responses and suggestions. It's so frustrating to be so close to finishing yet so far from getting this thing wrapped up.
So. let me clear a few things up.
Everything you are looking at is new. I have completely replaced everything and was looking to button this job up when I noticed that the bolt was taken off by the original timing chain.
The original chains were in place when I started and a matter of fact the car idled perfectly and ran smooth at low speed. I did have the dreaded P0016 code and it had a clanky start. After the clanky start the engine ran very smooth.
When I opened up the plate many of the guides were broken and I had to fish out the pieces. So I never noticed that the bolt was gone until I was installing that guide.
I tried to drill out the bolt so that I can use my bolt extractor it but it seems as someone said I may have been using a bit that was a bit to big. Also The engine is dropped right now to the point that it is resting on the sub frame with the jack and block under it as back up.
Right now I can't get a straight shot at the hole and I have been drilling from an angle. So I'm thinking to drop the sub frame a bit today so that I can get straight access with the drill. I'm going to try with a smaller bit but I fear I may have damaged it beyond the point of extraction at this point so I may be looking at developing a plan B.
Again, guys thank you all for your responses and suggestions. It's so frustrating to be so close to finishing yet so far from getting this thing wrapped up.
#16
BTW, I assume the broken off bolt head is in the pan I never saw it when removing all the broken guide pieces which is why I proceeded to put everything back together before discovering the broken off head