Buying a 2009 LS Panel on Wed 8/10/11,,, advice/opinons/help wanted please
08-08-2011, 10:48 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 07-21-2011
Location: Las Vegas Nv
Posts: 87
Buying a 2009 LS Panel on Wed 8/10/11,,, advice/opinons/help wanted please
Ordered a 2009 LS white panel from CarMax, it just got delivered to my local Las Vegas CarMax today and I will be going to check it out Wen afternoon, if I like it and everything seems Ok I will complete the purchase and drive it away,,,,,(I REALLY hope I like cuz if I dont, I loose the shipping transfer fee's).
It has 24K miles on it and in the pictures it looks very clean and well taken care of.
Two things I need advice/opinons on:
Should I get the CarMax extended warranty or not ?
Will I have some GM warranty left on a 2009 panel with 24K miles ??? and if so,, how much GM warranty will be remaining ?
When I go to to check it out in person and test drive it are there any specific issue's or problems that I should look for with a 2009 LS panel ?
Thanks much in advance for any help
Cheers
Davyo
It has 24K miles on it and in the pictures it looks very clean and well taken care of.
Two things I need advice/opinons on:
Should I get the CarMax extended warranty or not ?
Will I have some GM warranty left on a 2009 panel with 24K miles ??? and if so,, how much GM warranty will be remaining ?
When I go to to check it out in person and test drive it are there any specific issue's or problems that I should look for with a 2009 LS panel ?
Thanks much in advance for any help
Cheers
Davyo
08-08-2011, 11:12 PM
#2
Platinum Member
Join Date: 01-09-2007
Location: SE USA
Posts: 15,976
Ordered a 2009 LS white panel from CarMax, it just got delivered to my local Las Vegas CarMax today and I will be going to check it out Wen afternoon, if I like it and everything seems Ok I will complete the purchase and drive it away,,,,,(I REALLY hope I like cuz if I dont, I loose the shipping transfer fee's).
It has 24K miles on it and in the pictures it looks very clean and well taken care of.
Two things I need advice/opinons on:
Should I get the CarMax extended warranty or not ? That's up to you. I would insist on seeing a CarFax report at least..
Will I have some GM warranty left on a 2009 panel with 24K miles ??? and if so,, how much GM warranty will be remaining ? Yes, day it was first titled is when the warranty clock began.. But they have 3 yr /36,000miles Bumper to bumper. & 5 yr/ 100K miles on the Powertrain warranty.. Some emissions parts are warrantied longer yet..
When I go to to check it out in person and test drive it are there any specific issue's or problems that I should look for with a 2009 LS panel ? If you are not mechanical, I would suggest having a trusted shop of your choosing do a full inspection on it.. If it needs anything, that is best time to cut a better deal..
Thanks much in advance for any help
Cheers
Davyo
It has 24K miles on it and in the pictures it looks very clean and well taken care of.
Two things I need advice/opinons on:
Should I get the CarMax extended warranty or not ? That's up to you. I would insist on seeing a CarFax report at least..
Will I have some GM warranty left on a 2009 panel with 24K miles ??? and if so,, how much GM warranty will be remaining ? Yes, day it was first titled is when the warranty clock began.. But they have 3 yr /36,000miles Bumper to bumper. & 5 yr/ 100K miles on the Powertrain warranty.. Some emissions parts are warrantied longer yet..
When I go to to check it out in person and test drive it are there any specific issue's or problems that I should look for with a 2009 LS panel ? If you are not mechanical, I would suggest having a trusted shop of your choosing do a full inspection on it.. If it needs anything, that is best time to cut a better deal..
Thanks much in advance for any help
Cheers
Davyo
sleeper, 08 Panel 2LT owner
08-08-2011, 11:26 PM
#4
Deceased
Join Date: 06-30-2010
Location: Kannapolis NC
Posts: 25,739
Ignoring Sam for a minute, hard to do because I'm still laughing over his comment, sleeper covered all the big points very concisely so take them to heart. Its always best to treat any vehicle with suspicion until everything checks out, that way you can get any surprises out in the open before you write the check.
08-09-2011, 12:49 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-22-2010
Location: Russia Ekaterinburg
Posts: 2,030
about guarantees I will not say anything (not local).
about the weaknesses of the HHR:
1. Front suspension - links and bushings constant knock, a real disease of most HHR.
2. Curvature of the front rotors, which manifests itself through vibration when braking.
3. Problems with electrical wiring in the steering wheel, rotation of steering made off lights in the display.
But in general - HHR reliable and high-quality car.
Some general guidelines:
Take a flashlight for a thorough inspection of the vehicle.
1. On a cold car!
First, open the hood. Turn on the flashlight and very carefully inspect the engine and all, that is located near the engine. Look for signs of wet places and liquids. If you see a wet spot - failure! Prepare the money for repairs!
Pull lubricant probe, carefully inspect the oil. If the oil a little - the car empty, improper engine operation. If the oil is black - the wrong engine operation. If the oil is foamed, if oil is a strong smell of gasoline - a very big problem, the refusal from the purchase.
Check the levels of other fluids: brake fluid, antifreeze. There should be enough for proper operation of the vehicle.
Open the radiator cap. (NOTE! Radiator must be cold!) Put your finger inside, swipe your finger on the inner surface. Get the finger and look down what is left on your finger. If you see a clear transparent drops of antifreeze - is good. If you see rust, dirt or sediment - a moment of reflection.
2. Turn on the car.
Come out of the car, go to the open hood. Carefully listen to the engine. It should work smoothly, without any extraneous sounds. Do you hear me knocking, strange chatter, non-rhythmic changes in tone - perhaps the problem, an occasion to reflect.
Go back inside the car. When pressed the brake test to an automatic transmission. WARNING! During the test foot only on the brake pedal! Translate selector of transmissions from one mode to the next. First with "P" to "L", then in the opposite direction. Look at the tachometer. In all modes of transmission (except "P") the same number of turns. If the strong difference - the problem. During each mode the engine speed must be stable. If it is not - a problem. If you feel a strong vibration switch to the next mode, if you switch to the next mode and engine suddenly screamed - a big problem, the refusal from the purchase.
Inspection very carefully all the shock absorbers (4 pieces). Apply a flashlight, fingers, do not be afraid to be dirty. Look for drips of fluid. If you found a wet place - shock dead, prepare money for repairs. Vigorous movements (use your body weight) download for the car "up - down" - first the front of the car, then the rear of the car (pre-lift gates). The car rises slowly and smoothly - great shock absorbers. The car go "up - down" like a dead rat on a leash - shock absorbers are dead or dying. Do you hear the abnormal knock - the problem of running gear or suspension.
3. Begin to test drive. WARNING! Turn off the radio, it prevents listen the car.
Smooth move forward. Do not develop a high speed, listening attentively. Vibration when driving - problem. Use all modes of an automatic transmission. In all modes, the car should behave properly, if not - the problem.
Check joints angular velocity. For this made turns at different speeds (low speeds, up to 25 MPH). Turn right and the left, reverse and forward movement. If you hear a ratch (as a child's ratchet) - problem, prepare the money for repairs.
Check the brakes. Vibration when braking - a problem. Banging from behind - a problem. Check works of ABS. Sharp braking at a low speed. ABS will not turn on - a problem, food for thought.
The seller is trying to avoid a test drive - a very big problem, urgent refusal from the purchase and all associated liabilities, a sharp blow to the seller in the snout.
4. The final visual inspection.
Push all the buttons, make sure that everything works.
Turn on the wipers and air conditioning.
Plug the lights on all mode, plug the Turn light and Reverse light. All lights must function. Do not be lazy to go out of the car every time to personally verify this.
Carefully inspect the floor of the car, lift the mats, lift textile floor as possible, if the humidity - the problem. If the mold - a big problem. If the rust - the immediate refusal from the purchase. If river sand and dead tadpoles - an immediate refusal from the purchase and all associated liabilities, a sharp blow to the sellers liver.
Inspect the body of the car for damage. Do not forget to check the roof, check the bottom of the car all around. Be sure to use a flashlight, including the light of day. Light flashlight helps to see small deformation and newly painted part. Found damage - a moment of reflection, a reason for further questions. Found rust - a big problem.
Make sure you have a spare wheel and jack. Do not be lazy to get to the bottom. Along the way, check the battery and the metal floor (rust or traces of heavy blow to the back).
Good luck.
about the weaknesses of the HHR:
1. Front suspension - links and bushings constant knock, a real disease of most HHR.
2. Curvature of the front rotors, which manifests itself through vibration when braking.
3. Problems with electrical wiring in the steering wheel, rotation of steering made off lights in the display.
But in general - HHR reliable and high-quality car.
Some general guidelines:
Take a flashlight for a thorough inspection of the vehicle.
1. On a cold car!
First, open the hood. Turn on the flashlight and very carefully inspect the engine and all, that is located near the engine. Look for signs of wet places and liquids. If you see a wet spot - failure! Prepare the money for repairs!
Pull lubricant probe, carefully inspect the oil. If the oil a little - the car empty, improper engine operation. If the oil is black - the wrong engine operation. If the oil is foamed, if oil is a strong smell of gasoline - a very big problem, the refusal from the purchase.
Check the levels of other fluids: brake fluid, antifreeze. There should be enough for proper operation of the vehicle.
Open the radiator cap. (NOTE! Radiator must be cold!) Put your finger inside, swipe your finger on the inner surface. Get the finger and look down what is left on your finger. If you see a clear transparent drops of antifreeze - is good. If you see rust, dirt or sediment - a moment of reflection.
2. Turn on the car.
Come out of the car, go to the open hood. Carefully listen to the engine. It should work smoothly, without any extraneous sounds. Do you hear me knocking, strange chatter, non-rhythmic changes in tone - perhaps the problem, an occasion to reflect.
Go back inside the car. When pressed the brake test to an automatic transmission. WARNING! During the test foot only on the brake pedal! Translate selector of transmissions from one mode to the next. First with "P" to "L", then in the opposite direction. Look at the tachometer. In all modes of transmission (except "P") the same number of turns. If the strong difference - the problem. During each mode the engine speed must be stable. If it is not - a problem. If you feel a strong vibration switch to the next mode, if you switch to the next mode and engine suddenly screamed - a big problem, the refusal from the purchase.
Inspection very carefully all the shock absorbers (4 pieces). Apply a flashlight, fingers, do not be afraid to be dirty. Look for drips of fluid. If you found a wet place - shock dead, prepare money for repairs. Vigorous movements (use your body weight) download for the car "up - down" - first the front of the car, then the rear of the car (pre-lift gates). The car rises slowly and smoothly - great shock absorbers. The car go "up - down" like a dead rat on a leash - shock absorbers are dead or dying. Do you hear the abnormal knock - the problem of running gear or suspension.
3. Begin to test drive. WARNING! Turn off the radio, it prevents listen the car.
Smooth move forward. Do not develop a high speed, listening attentively. Vibration when driving - problem. Use all modes of an automatic transmission. In all modes, the car should behave properly, if not - the problem.
Check joints angular velocity. For this made turns at different speeds (low speeds, up to 25 MPH). Turn right and the left, reverse and forward movement. If you hear a ratch (as a child's ratchet) - problem, prepare the money for repairs.
Check the brakes. Vibration when braking - a problem. Banging from behind - a problem. Check works of ABS. Sharp braking at a low speed. ABS will not turn on - a problem, food for thought.
The seller is trying to avoid a test drive - a very big problem, urgent refusal from the purchase and all associated liabilities, a sharp blow to the seller in the snout.
4. The final visual inspection.
Push all the buttons, make sure that everything works.
Turn on the wipers and air conditioning.
Plug the lights on all mode, plug the Turn light and Reverse light. All lights must function. Do not be lazy to go out of the car every time to personally verify this.
Carefully inspect the floor of the car, lift the mats, lift textile floor as possible, if the humidity - the problem. If the mold - a big problem. If the rust - the immediate refusal from the purchase. If river sand and dead tadpoles - an immediate refusal from the purchase and all associated liabilities, a sharp blow to the sellers liver.
Inspect the body of the car for damage. Do not forget to check the roof, check the bottom of the car all around. Be sure to use a flashlight, including the light of day. Light flashlight helps to see small deformation and newly painted part. Found damage - a moment of reflection, a reason for further questions. Found rust - a big problem.
Make sure you have a spare wheel and jack. Do not be lazy to get to the bottom. Along the way, check the battery and the metal floor (rust or traces of heavy blow to the back).
Good luck.
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