Catalyst/EVAP not ready for over 3,000 miles, want to get remote start to work
#12
2 presses is ti ensure the doors are locked, The required sequence is Lock then RVS, but all doors must be locked. The extra press doesn't cost as much time as starting all over. If all doors are unlocked a single press does not lock them all. Belt and suspenders. Not worth arguing about.
#13
This update is very long overdue but I finally got around to replacing my hood latch with a new one since it was pretty cheap. I still don't get a "hood open" message or remote start though It all lines up good and it latches securely and the connector made a satisfying click when it locked which is nice the old one did not and you could just pull the connector off.
After the timing chains were done the battery was reset but I'm still experiencing the EVAP not being ready like before. Catalyst shows ready now though which is new. It's been almost 2,000 miles since I had that work done I've been driving it a bunch. Purge valve was replaced but the vent valve is still old as I got the wrong part in the right box. I don't believe it has anything to do with EVAP but I think I have an exhaust leak since when I first start the car the HVAC defaults to fresh air and I get a whiff of cold start fumes immediately after the engine starts. I can also smell it when I poke my head in the engine bay and cold start it. I don't hear any exhaust leak noises just the smell.
After the timing chains were done the battery was reset but I'm still experiencing the EVAP not being ready like before. Catalyst shows ready now though which is new. It's been almost 2,000 miles since I had that work done I've been driving it a bunch. Purge valve was replaced but the vent valve is still old as I got the wrong part in the right box. I don't believe it has anything to do with EVAP but I think I have an exhaust leak since when I first start the car the HVAC defaults to fresh air and I get a whiff of cold start fumes immediately after the engine starts. I can also smell it when I poke my head in the engine bay and cold start it. I don't hear any exhaust leak noises just the smell.
#14
If the leak is not fixed you could die! Please get it fixed today! Drive with windows open until then. CO is the odorless part of the exhaust, it is deadly.
Check the motor mount, that is a cause of a cracked flex pipe. Look through the hole in the passenger side front wheel hole, you should see a bolt head centered.
Check the motor mount, that is a cause of a cracked flex pipe. Look through the hole in the passenger side front wheel hole, you should see a bolt head centered.
#15
'06 HHR 176k miles 2.4L
My car is supposed to have RVS but I have never been able to get it to work. I do the three lock presses then hold the start button and the lights flash once but that's it. I believe this is due to the EVAP/Catalyst monitors not being in the "ready" status. It's been over 3,000 miles and at least 2 months since the battery has been disconnected and all other monitors are ready. Is it possible to just take to the dealer and see if they can force the tests to run? There is no CEL and all exterior lights are OK. I have the AP3 code and the DIC has a remote start enable/disable option.
My car is supposed to have RVS but I have never been able to get it to work. I do the three lock presses then hold the start button and the lights flash once but that's it. I believe this is due to the EVAP/Catalyst monitors not being in the "ready" status. It's been over 3,000 miles and at least 2 months since the battery has been disconnected and all other monitors are ready. Is it possible to just take to the dealer and see if they can force the tests to run? There is no CEL and all exterior lights are OK. I have the AP3 code and the DIC has a remote start enable/disable option.
#17
On HHRs many are designed to alert the driver that something is wrong, not just a pretty light on the dash. How would you know your brake lights were not working? Lights on waterfall don't work.
#18
Color me shocked when I found out if you don't want to cut/weld a new flex pipe on you have to replace the entire cat assembly. Why Chevy?! I'll probably just buy one of those flex pipe only fixes that you cut off and weld on to avoid replacing the entire thing
I'll get another vent valve from AZ or O'Reilly so I don't end up with the problem I had before and I'll report back, If the new vent valve has no change could this be a messed up computer? it doesn't make much sense since the car still runs good and has no other mechanical/electrical problems (that I currently know of) All the other tests seem to complete fine just not the EVAP. I've had the car over a year now too.
I'll get another vent valve from AZ or O'Reilly so I don't end up with the problem I had before and I'll report back, If the new vent valve has no change could this be a messed up computer? it doesn't make much sense since the car still runs good and has no other mechanical/electrical problems (that I currently know of) All the other tests seem to complete fine just not the EVAP. I've had the car over a year now too.
#19
#20
Don't blame computers for everything. OBD2 is just a set of tests, they need to be run under certain circumstances. "Not ready" is not the same as "failed". Most states allow 1 incomplete.
The EVAP testing won't run if the cold start temperature is above 86F, the gas tank has to be between 15% and 85%, ambient air temp below93F. Parked over night after at least a 3 mile drive. The Intake air temp and the engine coolant temp must be within 15 degrees F of each other. The engine temp must get up to at least 158F.
If the car runs cooler that 180F the EVAP is not going to run.
The EVAP testing won't run if the cold start temperature is above 86F, the gas tank has to be between 15% and 85%, ambient air temp below93F. Parked over night after at least a 3 mile drive. The Intake air temp and the engine coolant temp must be within 15 degrees F of each other. The engine temp must get up to at least 158F.
If the car runs cooler that 180F the EVAP is not going to run.
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