Crashed in December, Doing the repairs myself
02-23-2012, 01:22 AM
#11
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Join Date: 01-09-2007
Location: SE USA
Posts: 15,975
I don't know what people mean by a 4 wheel alignment on these cars, there is no adjustment that can be made to the rear wheels, The rear axle does require some precision work! Even though it theoretically just bolts on, check the Service Manual for details, it's not just that easy.
That is how a 4 wheel alignment on these is done.
02-23-2012, 06:08 PM
#12
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg,VA
Posts: 25,326
On some SS models, if the tech has an inclination to learn how and can find the shims. That is what my "trusted alignment guy" told me. They do not normally stock those shims. Yes, they can hook up all of the sensors for a 4-wheel alignment machine, but he said that what you get is a toe adjustment with lots of pretty computer print outs that say absolutely nothing to the normal "D-A" that comes in for the $149.99 alignment instead of the $49 regular one. Yes, he does have the big fancy machine, but told me to save my $ and specify 2-wheel.
How, other than a damaged rear axle beam or major frame (uni-body) damage can the rear wheels become non-aligned? If either is bent or broken then they need to be replaced, not jimmied into some sense of compliance. They do not check the rear camber or caster, only that the rear wheels "track" with the fronts, rear toe I guess. Remember following a '71 Camaro going down the road "crabbing" looking like a B-52 landing sideways; that cannot easily happen on a front wheel drive vehicle.
If the frame (uni-body) is bent you need a "body pull" or a new car, if the bearings are bad you need new bearings, if the beam is bent you need a new beam. I simply don't know why you would insist on spending your money, it is yours so go ahead if you want to. I just am trying to inject some sanity into the car repair world.
Unless you are putting over sized tires & wheels on the car you should not have to do anything to the alignment other than the Toe, ever (and then you probably need to replace some parts). No exclamation marks or all caps, so don't get offended. (I recently found out that I need to add that). I am waiting to be enlightened.
What I was referring to in this particular case, is that the rear axle beam has registration pins and holes that must be positioned properly, and may not be done correctly by "some guy" like me in the home garage.
Please don't get offended by this post, spend your money the way you want to. Just get informed before you do.
02-23-2012, 07:31 PM
#13
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Join Date: 02-15-2012
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 7
You have a good point. When I was surveying the damage back in december, I was wondering if it was even possible to do alignments without bending things. Thanks for the info! Ill just take it into a body shop and have them take a look at it, just to make sure I didn't screw anything up. I need new rims too. :/ but luckily those aren't absolutely required to get the car moving.
02-23-2012, 08:37 PM
#14
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg,VA
Posts: 25,326
You have a good point. When I was surveying the damage back in december, I was wondering if it was even possible to do alignments without bending things. Thanks for the info! Ill just take it into a body shop and have them take a look at it, just to make sure I didn't screw anything up. I need new rims too. :/ but luckily those aren't absolutely required to get the car moving.
Body shop for "pull" tire shop for "alignment". A "pull" should include a lot of measuring and hydraulics i.e. ain't cheap. Insurance claims usually include a pull with a front/side impact, last one I saw was in excess of $200. Everybody should remember that Uni-Body with McPherson Struts is an entirely different animal from the iron I-beam dual wishbone suspension of yore, and that the HHR has one of the simplest of all of the "new" suspensions, it ain't exactly "multi-link front & rear etc......".
03-01-2012, 04:32 PM
#15
Thread Starter
Join Date: 02-15-2012
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 7
Update: I have the car back together, and I took it for a short drive around the neighbourhood to get it aligned and get my work checked out. Nothing is wrong with it anymore, except a slight noise from the front hub I hit. I think it is the bearing, so I will be replacing that, as well as a bent wheel. Neither issues are any cause of immediate alarm for me, and the guy at the body shop said I was extremely lucky to have not caused any more damage than I did. Thanks for helping me out and providing good info for me!
EDIT: Forgot to put a picture of the finished car up. :) http://imgur.com/2QCj7
EDIT: Forgot to put a picture of the finished car up. :) http://imgur.com/2QCj7
Last edited by jimmy9800; 03-01-2012 at 05:24 PM.
03-01-2012, 05:42 PM
#17
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Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 11,381
Good to hear it's back togeather. As I stated in my earlier posts, those hub bearings do not do well in a side impact. If it bent the rim,you should replace the hub bearing because it's not "if" but "when" is it going to crap out!
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