Doctuh

I vaguely remember something that happened when I first got my car which had been repossessed and came with only one key and one fob. The extra fobs I bought on eBay were fine, but there was something wrong with the sensor embedded in the key blanks. I believe key would open the door but not turn in the ignition and start the car. The problem had to do with a bad design, and there was a marking on the base of the metal of the key. It looked slightly different on the replacements that the eBay seller sent when I complained about it than on the ones he sent me first. He recognized the problem as soon as I complained, but in retrospect had knowingly sent the bad ones out first anyway. If the cut is physically OK, then the chip in the key may be defective.

sdafins

Good advice. Keys and fobs can easily cost $300 or more plus programming. I know the all in one key on a VW Passat I owned was $400.

Greybeard999

Mine came with two fobs and one key...... $28 at the Chevy dealer for the key/cutting/programming and I was out of there. Used car lot where I bought the car paid for it too.

I wouldn't muck around with eBay keys, personally.

RBradley

"The problem had to do with a bad design, and there was a marking on the base of the metal of the key."

Early GM passkeys (post VATS with a resistor in the blade) had the PK3 on the blade, these were fixed code transponders. The next generation passkeys had + on the blade, these are encrypted transponders. In very cold climates keys with the + on the blade caused starting problems due to reduced read range around the ignition lock cylinder. GM then introduced the + with a circle around it, these use the same chips as the standard + transponder keys but are placed closer to the blade of the key to account for the reduced range in cold climates.

If the key does not turn the ignition lock cylinder it is a bad copy.

Ron S

When I got a extra (3rd) key for my wife's HHR it took the dealer about 30 seconds to program it to the car and it works perfectly

daddy2isaiah04

On previous cars that I have had, I had a similar problem with newly cut keys. It was because of the worn cylinder, and the key not lining up inside correctly to turn it. I took a piece of sandpaper and gently rounded off the sharp edges of the newly cut key, just to smooth it out a bit like the normal wear and tear you see on your old key. I rounded off every sharp edge to make it look worn like the original and it worked like a charm. Never had another problem with them. Just a thought.

tpaul

I ended up getting another key cut and programmed from my local chevy dealer. It was $25. When i get a chance i will bring the other back to the hardware store for a second pass on the cutting machine. Maybe that will help. If not i will contact the ebay seller and let them know the problem. I have ordered keys from ebay in the past and never had a problem.

I should have insisted on a second key when i bought the car, but they gave me a GREAT price on my trade and i didn't want to loose the deal. It was also later at night when i was there and the service guys were gone for the day. I traded a 2002 Taurus with 135,000 miles that needed work and got a 2009 HHR LT2 with the chrome pkg, pioneer stereo, 17" chrome wheels with 36,000 miles. I gave them $10800 and the taurus. I thought that was a great deal, i was happy. Its a nice car, fun to drive, lots of cargo room. Only complaint is that its much more narrow than the taurus.

Greybeard999

" 2009 HHR LT2 with the chrome pkg, pioneer stereo, 17" chrome wheels"



Nice car!

tpaul

Its dark gray outside and light gray cloth inside, but it doesn't have a roof rack. I would like to get the chrome one.

DaGrinch

I would have gone for that deal, too!

The second key we got with our '08 2LT HHR would not turn the ignition either - and it appeared to be one of the original keys to the car. Dealer told me they will give me a new one, all I have to do is stop by again. I'd have to agree with many of the others; worn tumbler, newer key.