engine break in
#12
Ranger is too cautious and old school. Redline is available after a couple of hundred and should be used as part of the normal variation. Only reason you shouldn't redline for the first few hundred is to make sure valves are fully seated and spring retainers are seated.
Don't get me wrong, don't take to the redline and hold it there for hours or something silly. Modern engines are built to tight tolerances and need the heat and energy from some hard acceleration to scuff rings and avoid starting valleys in the cylinder walls.
Changing your oil every 4000 miles is also a waste of money and oil resources unless you are doing EXTREME driving (ie live on a dirt road and your HHR is a delivery vehicle that you shut off and start every 15 minutes) Follow the Chevrolet oil life monitor and you'll be fine.
And go to Bob is the oil guys web site to learn about oil. They have over 2000 regular members, many who are ASC mechanics, oil specialists, thermodynamic engineers etc. They know oil better than the Ranger or I ever will.
Don't get me wrong, don't take to the redline and hold it there for hours or something silly. Modern engines are built to tight tolerances and need the heat and energy from some hard acceleration to scuff rings and avoid starting valleys in the cylinder walls.
Changing your oil every 4000 miles is also a waste of money and oil resources unless you are doing EXTREME driving (ie live on a dirt road and your HHR is a delivery vehicle that you shut off and start every 15 minutes) Follow the Chevrolet oil life monitor and you'll be fine.
And go to Bob is the oil guys web site to learn about oil. They have over 2000 regular members, many who are ASC mechanics, oil specialists, thermodynamic engineers etc. They know oil better than the Ranger or I ever will.
Last edited by irloyal; 06-18-2008 at 10:43 AM. Reason: spelling
#13
Great Info Ranger, thanks not sure I want to redline it to soon anyway, but I may not be able to resist!! hahah
Thanks Again
Dan
Thanks Again
Dan
No, do not take it all the way to redline until you have at least 600 miles on the odometer. Below 600 miles, do not exceed 75% of redline rpm, but do engage in strong acceleration runs up to the speed limit, but without tire spin.
This is how I broke mine in, and using regular conventional oil (Mobil Clean 5000 5W30) the oil level on the dipstick shows no apparent drop come oil change time, which I do 4000 mile oil change intervals with the Mobil Clean 5000 (Oil Life Monitor @ about 50%). Also, the DIC is currently indicating 29.6 mpg for majority of weekly driving being the following work commute: 12 mile route each way, dotted with 14 stoplights and a couple four way stop signs, speed limits of 35mph, 45mph, and a 1/2 mile stretch of four lane w/ 55mph limit (i.e. town driving). Keeping in mind that I try to maintain about 40 or 45 except on the 1/2 mile 4 lane part, because @ exactly 40mph indicated on the speedometer the auto trans locks down the torque converter and rpm's settle @ approx 1500. 45mph seems to show about 1600 or 1700 rpm. This appears to be optimal in-town mpg speeds. Just a hair slower @ 35- 39mph and the trans does not lock down and the tach indicates around 2000 rpm, so mpg is actually worse below 40mph.
I think the whip schedule break-in worked well on mine (see sig for engine and trans config)
This is how I broke mine in, and using regular conventional oil (Mobil Clean 5000 5W30) the oil level on the dipstick shows no apparent drop come oil change time, which I do 4000 mile oil change intervals with the Mobil Clean 5000 (Oil Life Monitor @ about 50%). Also, the DIC is currently indicating 29.6 mpg for majority of weekly driving being the following work commute: 12 mile route each way, dotted with 14 stoplights and a couple four way stop signs, speed limits of 35mph, 45mph, and a 1/2 mile stretch of four lane w/ 55mph limit (i.e. town driving). Keeping in mind that I try to maintain about 40 or 45 except on the 1/2 mile 4 lane part, because @ exactly 40mph indicated on the speedometer the auto trans locks down the torque converter and rpm's settle @ approx 1500. 45mph seems to show about 1600 or 1700 rpm. This appears to be optimal in-town mpg speeds. Just a hair slower @ 35- 39mph and the trans does not lock down and the tach indicates around 2000 rpm, so mpg is actually worse below 40mph.
I think the whip schedule break-in worked well on mine (see sig for engine and trans config)
#14
P.S. If you would read my post, you would see that my work commute is a short trip with plenty of stop and go which, especially in cold months of winter, certainly qualifies as severe service schedule. So I'll stick with the 4000 mile changes when using conventional Group II base stock oils. Also, as long as you drop off your used oil at a recycling point (Advance Auto Parts is who I use), it is not wasting oil resources becuase there are legit uses for the waste oil.
#15
...snip...
P.S. If you would read my post, you would see that my work commute is a short trip with plenty of stop and go which, especially in cold months of winter, certainly qualifies as severe service schedule. So I'll stick with the 4000 mile changes when using conventional Group II base stock oils. Also, as long as you drop off your used oil at a recycling point (Advance Auto Parts is who I use), it is not wasting oil resources becuase there are legit uses for the waste oil.
P.S. If you would read my post, you would see that my work commute is a short trip with plenty of stop and go which, especially in cold months of winter, certainly qualifies as severe service schedule. So I'll stick with the 4000 mile changes when using conventional Group II base stock oils. Also, as long as you drop off your used oil at a recycling point (Advance Auto Parts is who I use), it is not wasting oil resources becuase there are legit uses for the waste oil.
With no knowledge of driving habits why do you tell Cookie to follow a schedule for severe driving?
And why don't you clearly point out that you have a severe driving schedule?
And why don't you point out that using group II conventional can still be extended beyond 4Kmi when you become an informed user. While many don't run beyond 5Kmi, with a good oil that has been analyzed you can start running it to 6K, 7K or even higher mileage.
I have no doubt that you are taking great care of your vehicle and that your schedule is right for you. I just don't think you should push it off on to someone else who can potentially get a better service life from their oil.
And BTW, yes, you are wasting oil resources if you change your oil too soon even if you recycle it (which everyone should do), since you are not maximizing the potential of the oil.
Finally a note to all:
You should never exceed manufacturer recomendations for oil use during the warranty period, you don't want to take the chance of voiding the warranty. You should become an informed consumer, and use that information to determine the most cost effective and environmentally effective uses of our oil resources that you can. Just by coming to a board like this and participating proves you are pretty sharp and are doing the right thing!
'Oyal
#17
And why don't you clearly point out that you have a severe driving schedule?
Clearly point out? If it wasn't apparent in my 8:31 am post then I can't account for reading comprehension or lack thereof on the part of critics.
And why don't you point out that using group II conventional can still be extended beyond 4Kmi when you become an informed user.
While many don't run beyond 5Kmi, with a good oil that has been analyzed you can start running it to 6K, 7K or even higher mileage.
I have no doubt that you are taking great care of your vehicle and that your schedule is right for you. I just don't think you should push it off on to someone else who can potentially get a better service life from their oil.
And BTW, yes, you are wasting oil resources if you change your oil too soon even if you recycle it (which everyone should do), since you are not maximizing the potential of the oil.
#19
Rules to follow....
1. If you are a teen or thereabouts... Do not trust your DIC!! It had been proven, without a doubt that the male of the homo sapiens species is handicapped on this issue. There is only a given amount of blood volume. If it all goes to the brain, well, everything's usually OK. But if bloodflow is redirected to the penis, the brain is virtually cut off!
2. When it comes to your car.... Trust your DIC (the one in the car, dummy!).
1. If you are a teen or thereabouts... Do not trust your DIC!! It had been proven, without a doubt that the male of the homo sapiens species is handicapped on this issue. There is only a given amount of blood volume. If it all goes to the brain, well, everything's usually OK. But if bloodflow is redirected to the penis, the brain is virtually cut off!
2. When it comes to your car.... Trust your DIC (the one in the car, dummy!).
#20
The owner's manual states that there is no break-in period. You are simply advised to vary your speed for the first 500 miles.
That seems unavoidable unless you get right out on the interstate and drive several hundred miles at a nearly constant speed.
That seems unavoidable unless you get right out on the interstate and drive several hundred miles at a nearly constant speed.