Which Engine/Tranny for RV Tow Car?
#1
Which Engine/Tranny for RV Tow Car?
We need a tow car for our motorhome, and I've decided my Mini Cooper convertible is just too small (my wife needs an electric scooter to get around-- when we take that in the Mini, there's no room for anything else). So, we'll buy her a new car, with the intent to tow it. She loves the HHR, and it's listed as towable four-down in the RV magazines, even with an automatic. Is that specific to a particular engine, or are all combinations towable?
Assuming they are, just two questions: is the bigger engine highly recommended or is the standard engine adequate? As a point of reference, my Mini is a standard model, not an S, and I'm perfectly happy with the power it has for the type of driving I do.
Also, has anybody who is able to buy one at the GMS (employee discount) price found they did better by buying an HHR without using it? Some of the local dealers here in Phoenix advertise HHR's for less than the GMS price, but I've never tried to actually buy one.
Thanks!
Assuming they are, just two questions: is the bigger engine highly recommended or is the standard engine adequate? As a point of reference, my Mini is a standard model, not an S, and I'm perfectly happy with the power it has for the type of driving I do.
Also, has anybody who is able to buy one at the GMS (employee discount) price found they did better by buying an HHR without using it? Some of the local dealers here in Phoenix advertise HHR's for less than the GMS price, but I've never tried to actually buy one.
Thanks!
#2
to the best site around! My 2.2l/5-speed has plenty of power, but everyone is different concerning what they want in acceleration & fuel mileage, etc. Not sure if all drivetrain combos are flat towable, you can view the owners manuals on this site & read up on it though, or call GM.
#3
Although I drive a 2.4, I'm sure you'll find the 2.2 more than adequate.
#4
flibmeister, we use our HHR as our “toad”.
We have a 2008 1LT Touring suspension, with the standard 2.2 L engine, Sandstone Metallic, Cashmere Leather Seating Surfaces, Sunroof, Running boards, and the 4-speed automatic Transmission.
Drove a 2.4 L HHR 2LT with the sport suspension on a Friday and the following Monday I drove a 2.2 L HHR 1LT with the touring suspension, and drove another 2.4 L HHR 2LT with the sport suspension and for us the touring suspension gives us the ride we prefer with the all seasons factory standard 16” wheels and tires.
What surprised me was that I thought we wanted the 2.4 L with more horsepower, however we found the 2.2 L with less horsepower was more responsive and peppier. Maybe a better description is as I depressed the gas pedal of the 2.4 I felt a hesitation before acceleration, kind of like it was bogging down a little. I did not feel that same hesitation in the 2.2. Pat said she felt the same thing about the 2.4 as a driver and a passenger.
It has been suggested that maybe the 2.4's, with the stiffer suspension, gives the impression of not being as responsive. Also suggested that the dealer may have put 87 octane instead of the recommended preium. Not sure what it was but we are happy with the 2.2 L engine.
Baseplate and wiring; Roadmaster baseplate on-line for $289.50 net and free shipping. RV service charged $390.00 for install with him furnishing all wiring parts and diodes.
You have to pull one fuse, #8.
Bob
We have a 2008 1LT Touring suspension, with the standard 2.2 L engine, Sandstone Metallic, Cashmere Leather Seating Surfaces, Sunroof, Running boards, and the 4-speed automatic Transmission.
Drove a 2.4 L HHR 2LT with the sport suspension on a Friday and the following Monday I drove a 2.2 L HHR 1LT with the touring suspension, and drove another 2.4 L HHR 2LT with the sport suspension and for us the touring suspension gives us the ride we prefer with the all seasons factory standard 16” wheels and tires.
What surprised me was that I thought we wanted the 2.4 L with more horsepower, however we found the 2.2 L with less horsepower was more responsive and peppier. Maybe a better description is as I depressed the gas pedal of the 2.4 I felt a hesitation before acceleration, kind of like it was bogging down a little. I did not feel that same hesitation in the 2.2. Pat said she felt the same thing about the 2.4 as a driver and a passenger.
It has been suggested that maybe the 2.4's, with the stiffer suspension, gives the impression of not being as responsive. Also suggested that the dealer may have put 87 octane instead of the recommended preium. Not sure what it was but we are happy with the 2.2 L engine.
Baseplate and wiring; Roadmaster baseplate on-line for $289.50 net and free shipping. RV service charged $390.00 for install with him furnishing all wiring parts and diodes.
You have to pull one fuse, #8.
Bob
#5
Thanks for the replies. I did find the owner's manual on this site and it doesn't specify any restrictions on towing, so we should be good to go on that score. Probably just go with whatever engine happens to be in the first car we find that has the right combination of exterior color, interior color, and "dealbreaker" options (short list-- has to have an automatic, has to have the mp3 capable stereo, and can't have running boards. I'd prefer a leather interior, but they're just about impossible to find around here, have to order one if I want that).
Bob, I'm still debating Roadmaster vs. Blue Ox-- I've had Blue Ox before, very happy with it, they even did a free overhaul at a rally. Any particular reason you went with the Roadmaster over Blue Ox, or is that just the type of tow bar you had? I'll be buying a new towbar, too, trying to decide between the Sterling AT, the Aventa LX, or the Aladdin. Folks on one of the RV forums recommend the Sterling AT with Blue Ox ends, connecting to a Blue Ox baseplate, as the best combo. Decisions, decisons.....
The current round of GM rebates ends tomorrow, so we'll roll the dice a little and wait until after that to see what the new deals are-- probably either buy or order our HHR next week.
Bob, I'm still debating Roadmaster vs. Blue Ox-- I've had Blue Ox before, very happy with it, they even did a free overhaul at a rally. Any particular reason you went with the Roadmaster over Blue Ox, or is that just the type of tow bar you had? I'll be buying a new towbar, too, trying to decide between the Sterling AT, the Aventa LX, or the Aladdin. Folks on one of the RV forums recommend the Sterling AT with Blue Ox ends, connecting to a Blue Ox baseplate, as the best combo. Decisions, decisons.....
The current round of GM rebates ends tomorrow, so we'll roll the dice a little and wait until after that to see what the new deals are-- probably either buy or order our HHR next week.
#7
We had our previous toad set up with a Roadmaster baseplate and Roadmaster Steriling tow bar.
I was pleased with the delivery time, we special ordered our HHR over the phone on Tuesday October 9th and the dealer said they placed the order Wednesday October 10th and we took delivery 11/07/07. It came via rail to New Boston, MI. It was pretty quick. The dealer may have changed an existing order with GM to meet our special order options.
Bob
I was pleased with the delivery time, we special ordered our HHR over the phone on Tuesday October 9th and the dealer said they placed the order Wednesday October 10th and we took delivery 11/07/07. It came via rail to New Boston, MI. It was pretty quick. The dealer may have changed an existing order with GM to meet our special order options.
Bob
#8
Bob, that's pretty quick! I was anticipating six to eight weeks if I order one, but am leaning toward doing that, just to get the leather interior.
Re: the Sterling tow bar, do you ever have trouble disconnecting due to binding? We fulltimed for a few years with a Blue Ox Aventa (which used springloaded rings instead of the levers they use today) and our only complaint was that I sometimes had to jiggle the car some, or even use a hammer and punch, to disconnect if the tow car wasn't level with the motorhome. Hoping that the newer model tow bars have fixed that problem!
Thanks,
Denny
Re: the Sterling tow bar, do you ever have trouble disconnecting due to binding? We fulltimed for a few years with a Blue Ox Aventa (which used springloaded rings instead of the levers they use today) and our only complaint was that I sometimes had to jiggle the car some, or even use a hammer and punch, to disconnect if the tow car wasn't level with the motorhome. Hoping that the newer model tow bars have fixed that problem!
Thanks,
Denny
#10
Denny,
The aluminum Sterling tow bar has levers I pull-up to relive tension on the tow bar to disconnect. Have had a few times when the levers were very hard to lift and a couple of times I backed the car ever so slightly and set parking brake to lift the levers. The Roadmaster baseplate did not require and trimming of the fascia.
Thinking of installing a fuse switch, but for now I will leave the fuse puller tool attached to fuse #8 and pull the fuse when towing.
http://irv2.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/...2/m/5731022344 you can read the history of our HHR toad experience at the preceding link at iRV2.com
Bob
The aluminum Sterling tow bar has levers I pull-up to relive tension on the tow bar to disconnect. Have had a few times when the levers were very hard to lift and a couple of times I backed the car ever so slightly and set parking brake to lift the levers. The Roadmaster baseplate did not require and trimming of the fascia.
Thinking of installing a fuse switch, but for now I will leave the fuse puller tool attached to fuse #8 and pull the fuse when towing.
http://irv2.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/...2/m/5731022344 you can read the history of our HHR toad experience at the preceding link at iRV2.com
Bob