ESC question
07-09-2022, 02:06 PM
#51
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Can anyone tell me the location of the BCM and ECM and which wire is the communication wire to check. I want to make sure all the plugs are secure and check voltage to the sources. Its pouring rain today but once its dries up Ill ger to the fogs and the hub wiring to set it properly. Son in law says it has to be the communication wire loose somewhere, since fogs work correctly it shouldnt be that, probly a loose plug somewhere, but I am going to check all connections. Being that the first issue was on the return trip from vacation with the fuel guage, Im thinking a loose plug possibly at the BCM ?
07-09-2022, 02:08 PM
#52
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07-09-2022, 02:10 PM
#53
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The ABS connector is supposed to be attached to the strut. There is a bracket on the strut for it. It is possible the wire is compromised.
The ambient air temp sensor is not part of the bumper cover. I think the change was either mid-year or 2010 model year.
I guess my point got lost in the ozone. The fog lights are connected to the BCM, if all of the modules don't initialize at the same time those codes are set, if you were to connect the lights wrong then start the car that might inhibit the boot process. Could be why they were removed. I would look at the fog relay and fuse #53 & #54 underhood fuse box to be sure they are wired correctly; The BCM supplies +12 to the relay. (maybe the PO decided there is no need for a relay)
The ambient air temp sensor is not part of the bumper cover. I think the change was either mid-year or 2010 model year.
I guess my point got lost in the ozone. The fog lights are connected to the BCM, if all of the modules don't initialize at the same time those codes are set, if you were to connect the lights wrong then start the car that might inhibit the boot process. Could be why they were removed. I would look at the fog relay and fuse #53 & #54 underhood fuse box to be sure they are wired correctly; The BCM supplies +12 to the relay. (maybe the PO decided there is no need for a relay)
07-09-2022, 02:24 PM
#54
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What I meant was the AAS is NOT part of the bumper cover. The wiring harness is the factor in where it is mounted. We may be wrong about the timing of the change.
The 2010-2011 sensor simply clips onto the bumper cover, not "mounted" to it.
Where the AAS is has nothing to do with the year of the bumper cover.
The 2010-2011 sensor simply clips onto the bumper cover, not "mounted" to it.
Where the AAS is has nothing to do with the year of the bumper cover.
07-09-2022, 08:51 PM
#55
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Can anyone tell me the location of the BCM and ECM and which wire is the communication wire to check. I want to make sure all the plugs are secure and check voltage to the sources. Its pouring rain today but once its dries up Ill ger to the fogs and the hub wiring to set it properly. Son in law says it has to be the communication wire loose somewhere, since fogs work correctly it shouldnt be that, probly a loose plug somewhere, but I am going to check all connections. Being that the first issue was on the return trip from vacation with the fuel guage, Im thinking a loose plug possibly at the BCM ?
07-10-2022, 07:47 AM
#57
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This kind of battery problem, low voltage, can still provide plenty of cranking and easily start the car, yet cause all kinds of electrical problems, in particular all those “communication lost” issues like the ones on the sheet you posted (which is pretty fuzzy, btw, maybe edit the post with a higher rez or better focus image?)
Those codes suggest the possibility that the alignment was bungled and the battery or some other cause of low voltage are problems.
I have read many anecdotes of various electrical problems going away when a battery like that was replaced. It also worked for me. If the battery is older, just throwing in a new one would not be wasteful. No point trying to diagnose electrical problems with an iffy battery.
Maybe snugging up those relays helped? Prolly not but at this point I might try a new battery and see what happens after a little driving and then scan again.
Assuming proper tires means P215/50R17. Much bigger diameter will scuff on the strut spring perches. Even P215/55R17 is too big. I don’t know if the driver would notice than before the esc does.
07-10-2022, 09:30 PM
#58
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07-10-2022, 09:36 PM
#59
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Down to 12.4V in less than a day suggests a bad battery, regardless of load test results, a different problem. I would check in 2-3 days and expect to find it even lower. An unequivocally good one will hold the 12.6V or so that the system charges it to for weeks or months.
This kind of battery problem, low voltage, can still provide plenty of cranking and easily start the car, yet cause all kinds of electrical problems, in particular all those “communication lost” issues like the ones on the sheet you posted (which is pretty fuzzy, btw, maybe edit the post with a higher rez or better focus image?)
Those codes suggest the possibility that the alignment was bungled and the battery or some other cause of low voltage are problems.
I have read many anecdotes of various electrical problems going away when a battery like that was replaced. It also worked for me. If the battery is older, just throwing in a new one would not be wasteful. No point trying to diagnose electrical problems with an iffy battery.
Maybe snugging up those relays helped? Prolly not but at this point I might try a new battery and see what happens after a little driving and then scan again.
Assuming proper tires means P215/50R17. Much bigger diameter will scuff on the strut spring perches. Even P215/55R17 is too big. I don’t know if the driver would notice than before the esc does.
This kind of battery problem, low voltage, can still provide plenty of cranking and easily start the car, yet cause all kinds of electrical problems, in particular all those “communication lost” issues like the ones on the sheet you posted (which is pretty fuzzy, btw, maybe edit the post with a higher rez or better focus image?)
Those codes suggest the possibility that the alignment was bungled and the battery or some other cause of low voltage are problems.
I have read many anecdotes of various electrical problems going away when a battery like that was replaced. It also worked for me. If the battery is older, just throwing in a new one would not be wasteful. No point trying to diagnose electrical problems with an iffy battery.
Maybe snugging up those relays helped? Prolly not but at this point I might try a new battery and see what happens after a little driving and then scan again.
Assuming proper tires means P215/50R17. Much bigger diameter will scuff on the strut spring perches. Even P215/55R17 is too big. I don’t know if the driver would notice than before the esc does.
07-11-2022, 10:00 AM
#60
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odd happenings today, car sat all day yesterday while having work done to the house ( blown in insulation ) just went to the store tonight, car started up...No ESC lights??? Drove to gas station pulled up to pump, shifted into reverse....ding ding ding, damn Service ESC popped up right then???? and continued with the stop at the store and back as usual, but didnt do it at first oddly...