I’m hoping not, I still get P0442 every once in awhile, so I’m hoping the canister isn’t damaged, cracked or filled with crud!

 

Maybe it pretty much lasts forever so to speak... mine wants to not start once awhile and it has started to bog down for a few seconds. But hasn’t done that until the check engine light went off on its on then for a few days out of nowhere my low tire pressure started freaking out showing I had zero air in rear tire which wasn’t true.

 

It does not matter which one you choose, they come from the same factory. Get the one that does not charge for the (unneeded) pig tail.

You can look at the casting marks and see that the parts are identical.

Is the tire position set correctly? If they got rotated and not re set who knows which corner the computer thinks is low? However, the battery in the wheel is only good for about 10 years, usually that results in -- on the display.

 

Strange, I just had the DIC tell me to service tire monitor, the right rear showed —-, when I got home I relearned the TPMS and all four beeped and are now showing up with the correct tire pressure.
I’m looking into ordering a tin foil hat! Strange stuff!

 

It’s funny the battery thing only seems to show up a week after new tires then it goes away after awhile. The batteries have never been changed...

cleared the code and drove around for awhile and light came right back on large leak detected and gas cap light came back on. Saw a video online and a guy measured the ohms on the sensor and he said if it reads 1300 and lower it’s bad. Mine does and he said working on customers cars the large evap leaks are usually always evap canister. We did smell a gas smell a few times after shutting it off. No leaks anywhere.

 

That’s odd! How did you reset them? Incase mine shows up again.

 

I have a TPMS reset tool. EL- 50448

you smell gas? Look up above the canister, for the fuel lines and the insulation is that rusty and wet? Also check by the drivers rear tire were the insulation sleeve stops is it wet there?


This is by the driver’s rear tire

This is above the canister about the middle of the car.

 

Nope and I live in the south so zero rust underneath it’s spotless 😁. Only smelled it twice so not sure what was up with that. By the end of June I have to have this figured out so it will pass emissions.

Already replaced the gas cap with a acdelco one off amazon. Replaced purge solenoid and all lines and fittings are tight. So leads me to think the vent canister I bought is bad and if the new gas cap was bad it won’t cause and bog or stalling issues once awhile. Fuel pressure is good and hear the fuel pump loud and clear.

 

Perhaps a used canister from your local pick a part

 

The seal between the valve and the canister usually gets torn when the valve is replaced. Make sure it seals, RTV sometimes does the job.
Dirt and junk on the lip of the fuel fill tube can disturb the sealing.
A bent or distorted fill tube can disturb the sealing.
If the fuel pump has been replaced there are several points that could cause a large leak and odor.

It is unclear what parts you have replaced. The purge valve is under the hood; the vent valve is near the gas tank on the charcoal canister.

Some states allow a EVAP fault in the smog.

My right rear used to go --- when driving past Quantico Marine base when they were playing with the Howitzers. It is the farthest away from the RCDLR and the most stuff in line of sight.