I've Googled & searched around, Plug, Port, External Source, etc. and not able to find this plug.
It's next to the Battery 50Amp, it's a 10amp Capped Fuse Plug with a blank plug on other half of plug and the 10amp contacts look like they are made to contact.
Is there a GM accessory plug the creates a Source Lead that slides into this slot and drops the wire leads out the bottom?
I'm wanting to add some additional Key On power source for a few additional features... this is a pink lead 10amp.
I haven't seen this type of plug but looked useful and clean method to tap into source.

Anyone know the lead to purchase to use with this plug?



Red Plug in slot next to fuse, and fuse contacts appear to be in empty slot channel.

 

Is this a Panel HHR ?
The panel's have a slightly different wiring harness system. There is an outlet or plug in the right rear interior of the panels. Maybe it's something to do with that ?
Maybe someone with a panel can go look at theirs and see if it's the same as your's.

 

This is a 2008 Panel LT, it has a trailer plug in the harness up stream near rear lights behind OnStar mount points.
This is down at the battery, in the same loom as the 50 Amp main.

You pop open the top, and can remove a blank plug.
This has a 2 port open bottom and the opposing Fuse terminals have contact points aligned to the empty port.
It looks like you can slide a optional lead into the grove and the leads would extend out the bottom and you snap the top cap back on.

No need to use a fuse tap style, this looks to be a way to provide a accessory lead(s).

 

Omitted comment on power plug.
Yes there is a power plug on the Rt Side and it's leads appear to head off to other looms and towards the Ft. of cabin,

 

Why not just use one of the extra fuse positions on the BCM?

#4 is the 50A fuse for the BCM
#3 is the VCIM (OnStar cell phone) fuse

 

Don, I beleive you've identified the fuse... but the style of plug is different to me, still looks like it could use a drop in lead. With it being an unused OnStar, I'll use the 10amp OnStar with a fuse space tap.

Why rear source... I'd like to get the source in the rear and not run a wire up to console BCM. I've added rear camera, rear parking sonic sensors and microwave blind spot sensors. I'd like to keep their modules and power source in Rear and only run displays up ft.

thanks for the assistance... still would like to know if the blank plug has a purpose.

 

I have that on my 1/2 panel SS. If you are looking for a key on power source you can always put a fuse tap on a non essential fuse. I ran my stereo amp remote wire off of the fuse for the wipers. The amp wire is such a low amout of amperage it would have no effect on the windshield wipers and turns on only when the key is on.

 

These would be great write ups if you would like to share info on how to do.

 

What is wrong with using the back up lights, like the directions say? If you are really paranoid insert a relay. Wireless video is about $5 for both modules.

 

Correct, for the seperate systems I purchased and much more than $5. Camera is great quality with mini-connector and housed in a very small OEM housing. The camera uses Backup Light source for main. The Camera also requires the radio head's screen with trigger & video lead too. The sonic backup sensors are the 4 hardwire sonic buttons drilled & installed into bumper cover like OEM, they use the Backup source as trigger, but uses a key-on source for the controller to keep it on and instant with dash indicator / footage. Also optional, can be used with additional sets for ft or sides without backup trigger. The microwave blind spot require key-on source since they run all the time, also require turn signal triggers for side warning LED's or speaker & side warning LED's (mounted in ft pillor trim). The HHR external mirrors were not replaceable with embedded LED's.

I've tried many sonic sensors, backup cameras and blind spot detectors. Most cameras I've tried are short lived junk or use huge RCA cables for body pass through connections. The wireless systems have always been flaky, not near as reliable as hardwire and dependent on a cheap wireless circuit not failing in months ahead, wireless also more prone to problems in Cold temps, running other electronics, etc. The camera's reaction time on a hardwire is much faster and video improved. The blind spot "low end" sonic are basically worthless in operation... not sure if even offered in wireless, but the hardwire microwave are like OEM... better range, on all the time in mode 1 and if turn signals activated in mode 2. They're pricey ($300-700 range) but work as expected and mounted like OEM behind bumper on side body totally invisible to the eye.

I"m more into hardwires when possible and since I'm already running new antenna, GPS, and XM cable setting up single antenna in rear (found perfect fitting body plug for ft hole) installing phone touch screen radio, piping RCA audio from dash to aftermarket Rr sub and back to radio, etc... the interior panels, seats are all out anyway so hardwire is my best reliable option and access is relatively nice.

On the plus side in my little revamp project... found a nice set of leather seats & belts... so converting Panel box and installing leather interior. This is the Wife's so she excited.