Fuse block - 10 Amp accessory Plug??
01-22-2019 | 06:21 PM
#11
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Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 25,345
From: Fredericksburg,VA
If there is no problem running wires all oer the place what is wrong with doing it right an back wiring the already hot/key/RAP extra fuse positions on the BCM?
I just get confused when people declare "professional look" and "fuse tap" in the same breath.
BTW the aux power outlet in the rear is on a fuse by itself and is always hot.
I just get confused when people declare "professional look" and "fuse tap" in the same breath.
BTW the aux power outlet in the rear is on a fuse by itself and is always hot.
01-22-2019 | 10:05 PM
#12
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Joined: 11-04-2018
Posts: 273
From: Iowa
Interesting... this thread started by asking if anyone knew of this style of fuse plug, since it wasn’t the ordinary capped in-line fuse plug. The spare blank looked like a new style factory provided method for a clean way to use the inline plug by utilizing the 2nd side of block. New to me at least, was curious what plugged into it. I left the GM bays in the 80’s for new IT profession, so new devices or methods in electronics & electrical are intriguing on new vehicles.
I’m relatively new to this forum and enjoy all the wisdom, experience and suggestions everyone has shared. Also enjoy the questions, it helps think out various design thoughts. Thanks All.
Taking discussion off tangent from fuse block design to wiring, again... enjoy the questions, beats me talking to myself in my little garage and produces better results. Determing Battery hot or key-hot is quick to verify, was more intersted in the new plug design while determing my options; the use of Red vs Pink used to indicate battery hot vs key-hot for quick visual... didn’t examine circuit closely. Personally I normally splice & solder, avoid wire splice clamps and hadn’t used a “fuse tap” yet... those didn’t exist back in my days in the bay, my term of “fuse space tap” is using a blank fuse location.
Running “wires all over the place” (suggesting mess) doesn’t equate to adding required wires for new installed devices. I take the time and disassemble to route along existing factory looms to avoid possible chaffing or poor wear points; that requires additional removal, and attention to detail. Examining & learning this vehicle’s wiring & routing is new to me and enjoyable. Routing the 3 different types of antenna cables and additional wires required removing the roof liner, passenger airbag & dash top plate to follow factory routing in-dash and not under dash or behind the upper carpet edge area where chaffing eventually occurs. Didn’t express professionalism, but it’s certainly not adding wires into where it simply fits out of sight, so it would be more professional. Several professional electrical or audio shops don’t route professionally... they couldn’t make a profit on the time to follow factory channels & looms and some of the professionaly performed trailer harness, audio, and damage repair jobs I’ve redone left a lot to be desired. Selecting voltage source in Rr or Ft, is dependent on future access and location of new modules.
I purchased the 1st HHR Panel in November, for a small business I’m attempting to start because they offer a nice logo placement; a clean LT Auto. Enjoyed the “Sexy Look” of the Panel, loved the door poppers and overall build quality. Stumbled upon a great buy on a Panel LT2 5sp in December so picked it up too. They lacked a few modern electronics desired, added new clear headlights, Grill & Ft Bumper cover due to broken tabs & mount rails to tighten up fender gap and still searching for a few items.... but a fun Winter project.
The more I take apart the interior of the HHR the more interesting to see how it was built and electronics distributed in multiple locations. For a low cost vehicle, it was well thought out & built! The dash zone is already pretty tight & condensed with electronics for my large hands so rear OnStar mount location looked like a good location and relatively easy future access if needed.
Appreciate the suggestions and info!
I’m relatively new to this forum and enjoy all the wisdom, experience and suggestions everyone has shared. Also enjoy the questions, it helps think out various design thoughts. Thanks All.
Taking discussion off tangent from fuse block design to wiring, again... enjoy the questions, beats me talking to myself in my little garage and produces better results. Determing Battery hot or key-hot is quick to verify, was more intersted in the new plug design while determing my options; the use of Red vs Pink used to indicate battery hot vs key-hot for quick visual... didn’t examine circuit closely. Personally I normally splice & solder, avoid wire splice clamps and hadn’t used a “fuse tap” yet... those didn’t exist back in my days in the bay, my term of “fuse space tap” is using a blank fuse location.
Running “wires all over the place” (suggesting mess) doesn’t equate to adding required wires for new installed devices. I take the time and disassemble to route along existing factory looms to avoid possible chaffing or poor wear points; that requires additional removal, and attention to detail. Examining & learning this vehicle’s wiring & routing is new to me and enjoyable. Routing the 3 different types of antenna cables and additional wires required removing the roof liner, passenger airbag & dash top plate to follow factory routing in-dash and not under dash or behind the upper carpet edge area where chaffing eventually occurs. Didn’t express professionalism, but it’s certainly not adding wires into where it simply fits out of sight, so it would be more professional. Several professional electrical or audio shops don’t route professionally... they couldn’t make a profit on the time to follow factory channels & looms and some of the professionaly performed trailer harness, audio, and damage repair jobs I’ve redone left a lot to be desired. Selecting voltage source in Rr or Ft, is dependent on future access and location of new modules.
I purchased the 1st HHR Panel in November, for a small business I’m attempting to start because they offer a nice logo placement; a clean LT Auto. Enjoyed the “Sexy Look” of the Panel, loved the door poppers and overall build quality. Stumbled upon a great buy on a Panel LT2 5sp in December so picked it up too. They lacked a few modern electronics desired, added new clear headlights, Grill & Ft Bumper cover due to broken tabs & mount rails to tighten up fender gap and still searching for a few items.... but a fun Winter project.
The more I take apart the interior of the HHR the more interesting to see how it was built and electronics distributed in multiple locations. For a low cost vehicle, it was well thought out & built! The dash zone is already pretty tight & condensed with electronics for my large hands so rear OnStar mount location looked like a good location and relatively easy future access if needed.
Appreciate the suggestions and info!
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