Hello. I’ve had my white 2010 Chevy HHR since Sept 2022 bought with 105k on it. I love the design, the functionality
the MPG, and almost everything except all the digital stuff. Being 71 and an old school DIY mechanic I am not a big fan
of packing cars with electronics which over time, heat, etc degrade.
My issue with Gauge Bouncing, false positive warning icons staying on, and even causing hard upshifting are due
apparently to a failing CAN circuit in the gauge cluster. As the issue has progressed since Dec 2022 I have taped over
suspect sharp metal edges, cable tied harnesses more secure, redressed ground connections and more. Still with
the assistance of a mechanic friend who has a much much better OBD II code reader, we’ve determined that the
Gauge Cluster is faulty. I initially corrected it by 2-4 restarts to clear the warning icons and carry on, to being unable to clear any
codes with my hand-held OBD II reader and having the flukey bouncing gauge cluster CAUSE hard upshifting, flatlining
of the Temp, Fuel, and Tach with text loss warnings of Power Steering, Low Fuel ( (when I’m full), E-brake ON, Engine Warning
and more.
My remedy these days is to do a Hard Reset thus clearing all fault codes and making the car drive-able for a short and getting shorter time.
I have researched plenty but have NOT found if the Gauge Clusters from other years are compatable with my 2010?
I have found gauge clusters to buy from 2011, 2009, but dealerships, Chevy corporate, and most online sellers don’t seem to
know or make it clear. There’s Atlanta Speedometer that does refurbs of your cluster, but since my understanding is you do
not have to program these I want to buy, remove and replace mine with a new OEM cluster.
I wrote today to AC Delco, Watson Chevy Parts and ISS Automotive Replacement Electronics and will know more by Monday.
Just frustrated as heck right now having to Hard Reset more and more often.
Already gone through adding a 12awg ground for the TCM, and filed back paint on other Grounds as I’ve read are necessary.

 

Not the cluster or the CAN, not that ominous.
Try tightening the bolts in the under hood fuse box way beyond what you think is too far. The 2 halves tend to loosen up making for loose fuse kind of intermittent problems. You might just take it apart and look for burnt contacts, then put it back together turning the bolts until you hear a click or 2.
While you are around the fuse box make sure the battery cable is tight. There should be 2 wires on the front terminal and 1 on the rear to the power steering.
Don't fear those scary computers; they just try to tell you what is wrong.

All years instrument panels should be the same. The only thing the bozos need to do is match the VIN to the BCM so the odometer will read. No matter what anybody tells you the ODO is stored in the BCM not the I/P.

Don't listen to what this guy says just watch how to disassemble the fuse box.

 

Thanks donbrew for the good info. I followed through with removing, cleaning out what little dust there was with an aerosol
air cleaner, used contact cleaner on pins and receivers, wire brushed cable ends and attachment plates, put a light coating of
dielectric grease on all three, and some grease on the pins, reinstalled carefully, tightened the 5 ‘click’ screws until the didn’t click anymore,
made sure the fuses and relays were tight, and reconnected the NEG battery cable.
First startup was clean and clear of codes and warnings, bur a 2nd startup brought back the Security icon, bouncing gauges and so on.
I am currently doing another Hard Reset to clear codes and will recheck soon.
Atlanta Speedometer.com states that “The main problem with this instrument cluster is a total communication failure. Typical symptoms
are sudden gauge failures and warning lights turning on. This is caused by a CAN circuit failure. You will still be able to read the display
but the rest of the cluster will fail.”
That said, I still thank you kindly for your quick response and good info. Now I know the year-to-year clusters are the same. The ones
out there for sale vary but around $150. Thank you again and I will update if the last Hard Reset works and sticks. Peace.

 

How old is yer battery?

 

Yeah, 2nd startup, same gauge issue so tomorrow I’ll order one at either AC Delco or Watson Chevy Parts.
It’s all good. Whatever I’ve already done is positive and helping the HHR to be a more reliable car.
I know from working on vintage and newer tube guitar amplifiers that the mass manufactured
printed circuit boards are weak and degrade quickly over time. Not a big deal. Still love the HHR
and will update with results and what else I learned I will share that may help someone else.

 

According to Atlanta Speedometer.com 770-293-7977 you can indeed, in a pinch, drive without the
cluster connected. But like a spare tire, it’s a temporary fix.

 

Battery is practically new dated FEB 2023. Which is also when I Dremeled off the paint on
the NEG cable attachment point for good metal-to-metal contact and used some dielectric
grease on that as well. Thanks for asking.

 

Like I already said: The cluster is just a cluster, no magic all the data is stored in the BCM. The cluster HAS to be matched to the BCM if you want odometer., otherwise the I/P will display whatever was on it the last time it was matched to a BCM.
Did push on all of the fuses in both fuse boxes to be sure they are seated? Another member recently found the BCM was loose and the connectors were a mess.
The guys you are talking to don't know HHR, they think it is a C-10.
The I/P is just the display connected to the BCM on the CANbus. I have not heard of one breaking, Electrical or possibly a CAN connector. Do what you want, but I think you would be wasting money.

 

Thank you. I’ll check the BCM connectors, etc.

 

After locating the BCM, removing all three connectors, and noticing none seemed especially
loose or dirty, I blew out the pin and receiver terminals, used contact cleaner on all,
re-installed the group and at the VERY least, the HHR is NOT doing what has been
going on and my wife and I went out for a short test drive for iced coffee and NO
issues thus far. So THANK YOU for that! I did not realize the BCM was so darn
important, or that gauge bouncing is one of potential many signs of poorly
connected or dirty BCM connectors. (info easily backed up by a Goggle search)
My Dad was a career mechanic for FORD and I learned a lot by watching him, because
teaching wasn’t really his thing. And his car brand of choice was Studebaker so I grew
up around the smell of grease, rebuilds, tear-downs, and an appreciation of all things
mechanical. My first set of wheels was a ‘61 Studebaker 6 convertible with Cragar SS
wheels and one of those foot-shaped accelerator pedals. Good beach car for a teenager.
Anyhow, if this fix of cleaning and re-securing the BCM terminal connectors turns out to
be THE thing, well you’ve saved me hundreds of dollars, and if not I still thank you for
the kind guidance that EVERYONE should appreciate on this site! And I’m SO glad to have
connected with ChevyHHR.net because I was getting a ration of ****e from most everyone
I talked to, including AC Delco, Cheverolet, parts dealers, refurb specialists, GM parts rep.s
and more, so Thank You again for helping me to make what I feel is a good solid car
even better. Bless you and your family.