I'm sure they would sell me the switch and the harness if I really wanted it.

The hood latch with switch is around $80 and the harness was over $100.

A pack of 3M wire splice connectors is around $3 and all I have to do is not give the neighbor kids my key FOB while I have body parts in the engine compartment....seems more reasonable.

 

see my edit about Logic Level signal, maybe?

 

This has been handled before, See:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/general-hhr-4/adding-remote-start-ls-24951/

 

Come to think, if the sw just grounds the pu and pk/bl then a VOM would be pretty useless, i'd just hook up the scantool and get under the pass side BCM connectors with a jumper wire, maybe fused or with a diode, or a logic probe or some such device.

 

Right....but this is what we are not sure of and what I'd like to verify by testing a switch on an HHR that has one.

Since there is a 12V+ signal, I'd rather know for sure what the switch does with a VOM before damaging the BCM.

 

What I know about remote start is that it is standard on all A/T HHR's unless it is deleated by a Rental co. or fleet sale

The addition of option code:
Transmission, 4-speed automatic

Required to add following option:
Remote vehicle starter system
Required to remove following option M/T



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Continue>>

 

Sorry, but no it has not. The issue I'm presenting here has virtually nothing to do with that post on what models include RVS and the AP3 code.

What I'd like to know is how does the hood switch function electrically, since my test vehicle does not have that type of switch so I can continue resolving this without handing money over to Chevrolet with zero results....which I've already done to some extent and won't continue to do.

Since my vehicle now responds by blinking the running lights to the start signal after programming a FOB with remote start button, the DIC shows it is ENABLED, we've verified with a SnapOn scan tool the car is getting the remote start signal....it seems logical that the hood latch is the last part of the equation.

I'm just looking for a little HHR assistance here to avoid damaging the BCM from misunderstanding how the hood latch switch works.

A simple test to check for continuity with the switch unplugged/the hood latch closed and then testing for voltage on the two signal wires when connected and latch closed should do the trick.

If the BCM requires additional programming at that point, we should get another message on the SnapOn tool once the hood latch is resolved.

Hopefully knowing for sure how this all comes together will help other HHR owners getting the run around from Chevy on how to get RVS working.

In my case, the general manager came in with the service manager where I purchased the car 2 months ago and said "Sorry it doesn't have it and it can't be added" and walked out of the room, which is ridiculous.

I've got a 1975 GM HEI ignition powered Ford/Mazda V-6 in my garage that has run for over 100K miles. I bet Ford would have told that was impossible too, but it solved buying $300 distributors every other year for around $30.

Knowing for sure what each part does is key.

 

OK. I have reread all your posts and I understand your desire and the research you have put into this endeavor. My HHR is a 2009 and I have the FSM for reference. You will have to guess as to if your 2008 is the same or not.

I can find no schematic or description in the FSM that tells me how the circuit works.

To directly answer your questions:
The hood switch is SPDT. The BLACK Ground wire at one end of the 3-position connector is the common. The wire next to the BLACK is PURPLE and is NC in the hood locked position. The YELLOW is NO in the hood locked position. Hood open conditions are of course opposite. These are the only two positions of the switch – Ajar and Open are the same physically.


I took this further and disconnected the connector and just grounded the contact on the body side harness corresponding to the PURPLE which has the provisional 12VDC, since the switch would do this anyway and the vehicle Remote Started. I add “provisional” because the 12VDC is not always there, I will presume to save power.

I first tried this grounding of the 12 Volt signal with the switch still connected using a bed-of-nails and it did not work since the YELLOW “Hood Ajar Switch Signal” was then grounded. It turns out the vehicle for the purposes of Remote Start monitors both conditions.


If I were to do what you are trying I would go to the BCM X1 Pin 3, PURPLE wire and ground it and see what happens.

 

Thanks for testing this to help me out!

It seems we have some slight differences between our wiring. I'll have to hit the AllData system again and look at the 2009 diagrams.

The 2008 switch has 3 wires, but the 12v+ signal appears on the PK/BK wire not the purple as in your case....although I do have a purple wire as the 3rd wire. Seems like they may have swapped wire colors.

I'll check into the diagrams and post back.

 

The hood switch provides status of the hood to the BCM for RVS purposes. The switch is integrated into the hood latch assembly. The hood ajar switch provides 2 separate inputs to the BCM. These separate inputs allow the BCM to actively monitor for a hood ajar switch fault.

On a scan tool the expected parameters are:

Hood Ajar Switch If parameter = Closed then the scan tool displays Ajar or Closed. This is the state of the hood ajar switch.

Hood Closed Switch If parameter = Active then the scan tool displays Active or Inactive. This is the state of the hood closed switch.

Hood Open Switch If parameter = Inactive then the scan tool displays Active or Inactive. This is the state of the hood open switch.

Hood Switch Fault If parameter = Not Present the the scan tool displays Present or Not Present. Present is displayed if the BCM senses a hood switch fault.