I bought the car from a used lot this summer and honestly don’t know much of it’s previous history. I just got the remote and programmer from Autozone.

 

Why is everyone ignoring Oldblue's post #2?

 

I’ll have to try that the next time I get a spot in the garage, or it’s above freezing outside.

 

My guess would be the actuators.
Also make sure you dont have the key in the ignition when trying to lock.

 

A. can you use the remote to reset the TPM? Procedure in Owner Manual, see my sig.
Do the tire pressures display ------?
Does the remote start work? Is it turned on in the DIC?
Does the fob lock anything?
Take the fob apart as if you were replacing the battery; is there a LED on the circuit board?
Can you hear the locks trying to work?
Do the doors lock when you put it in gear?

 

My tpms light is on, flashing. Yes, all display dashes. I took it in to try and get discount tire to get rid of the light, they reprogrammed (didn’t charge me anything), supposedly the monitors all work. They told me to come back when they could reprogram with the remote. The fob doesn’t seem to lock anything. No doors don’t lock when the car is in gear, they only lock manually.

 

If you bother to look at the Owner Manual you can do the procedure to reset the positions. I am getting tired of pointing out the LINK IN MY SIG!!!!

2008 cars have a problem; if they were without power for a time the RCDLR forgets it's programming and MUST have new firmware installed by a dealer. However I don't think that accounts for all of your symptoms, but I really don't think you are stating them accurately.

 

AH, so if the TPMS system is also not working, you may just need to reset the RCDLR module as stated above. It is a transceiver that controls both the remote fobs and tire pressure monitor system.
That I believe requires a Tech2 scan tool, not every shop has one.

 

And access to tech2web it is a firmware upgrade.Last I remember that was $50 for 1 day access.

Could be the fuse marked "RDO". Not sure which box, BCM I think.

The other alternative is to get an after market remote fob system. They are cheaper than you may think. And only one secret that probably is not in the installation manual.

 

I don’t see anything inconsistent in Nasaathoff’s description of the problem and it could be the exact same problem as my 2008LS.

All my door locks gradually started hanging up. The first one was repaired under warrantee but it failed later too.

The behavior was identical whether using the fob or the buttons in the car.

The hatch lock always worked fine.

As the problems gradually worsened, sometimes one or more would only deploy part way, sometimes repeated attempts would help. To much action and the fuse would blow.

The car had a new battery and no other symptoms of low voltage.

Once, the driver door lock stuck half way and the key wouldn’t free it. For this reason I pulled the fuse (which does not affect the hatch lock) and lived with manual door locks pending repairs. But I sold the car before that happened.

I understand that lubricating them might have helped but I suspect truth to the rumor that they were underpowered to start with and intolerant of age-related stickiness. Poor connections and/or too-skinny wires were other possibilities I contemplated. Had I kept the car I hope I would have gotten around to fixing them but it was daunting, expecting to have to find and pull actuators from another year, after doing some research yielding dubious information.

No such problems with my 2008 2LT nor my 2011 LS.

ps - this car had had a firmware update at the dealer.