RJ_RS_SS_350

Just a thought on the rattle, have you checked the engine oil level?

Tricci1009

Yes oil is good.

Tricci1009

Update. We have been driving about 30 min including the highway at 70mph. Hard shifting is completely gone and I don't hear that noise at all anymore. Only the other 2 codes are showing. I'm stumped as to how the maf being disconnected could cause that rattling noise like a bearing somewhere on the belt. Maybe the plug itself hanging down was making noise rattling against something. Idk it really sounded like bearings.

Oldblue

Check the wiring back there and for the seal on the EVAP canister, they sometimes get forgotten on the old part and don’t come with the new part.

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0446


same up front and the relay

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0480

Tricci1009

Thank you. I did find that the 30amp fuse for the cooling fan is blown. havent replaced it yet hopefully there isnt a deeper issue that will keep blowing fuses. I've got no carpet in the car and under my floor mats just keeps getting puddles of water I'm sure that's why the speakers rotted so much. I think I found a fix to the water getting in by re sealing the patch they put under the cowel. But I'm afraid there may be other spots prone to leaking because its not just the passenger side thats getting water.

donbrew

Door window seals don't seal, water gets inside the door, kills speakers, then before the weep holes rust out the water level gets up to where it flows into the floor. Also the accordion conduits sometimes leak.

Bonez

Maybe causing an engine ping due to air/fuel ratio being off when its disconnected ?

Tricci1009

Definitely was causing something I still have not heard that noise since I plugged maf in. As for the evap purge I checked the fuses under hood they are good. I checked the plug and connections on the little canister under hood that seems good as well. Is there a charcoal canister under the car by gas tank like some other cars?

Tricci1009

Disregard that. I know there's a canister as well. What are the odds that if I test the purge valve by putting my finger on it. If I feel a vacuum does that mean definitively that its that purge vale that I'm looking at or could it be the canister? Sorry evap systems are something I don't have much experience with. I'm still learning.

Oldblue

The valve under the hood should be closed, so if you can move air thru it, it’s toast.
The canister valve under the car should be open.