Nice!

 

New bolts shipped separately, coming in tomorrow. I was going to get all the stuff off and ready but that back bolt will not budge, not even a crack, it is on there. Going to see if a shop will pop em out for me and slap these in real quick.... or at least pull the bolts and get them loose for me to complete at home.

 

Do not use an impact gun, they cause the cage bolt to bust loose and spin in the cage.
soak them with penetrating oil and work them with a cheater pipe on a long breaker bar.
They are torqued to 74 ft/lbs then tightened another 180 degrees, they are 21 mm but a 7/8 six point socket works .

 

a 21mm slipped over mine, a 13/16 fits the heads tightly

 

Is that 21mm socket a six or twelve point

 

12 so I wasnt going to strip the bolt. , it was loose just seeing if it fit, so I dont think mine is 21mm, there was a lot of wiggle

 

can the nut in the cage be accessed with a wrench? Getting my plan of attack ready for today.

 

I was able to jam the nut with a screwdriver, but it was not stuck really badly.

 

I’m thinking an 1/8 inch Allen wrench inserted into the cage between the nut and the cage, I’m going to be doing that tomorrow morning, if I can get my camera in to take a photo, I’ll post it. To tighten up my drivers side , I removed the sway bar bracket and bushing and was able to insert a flat blade screwdriver into the cage as Donbrew mentioned and it held while I retorqued the bolt, I was just lubing the bolt, but the ball joint is making noises and I’ve already replaced the passenger side last weekend.


As you can see from fastsuv’s photo , with the engine cradle removed there’s room in the cage, however getting in there with the cradle in place, you have the rear transmission mount, steering rack and swaybar with brackets and bushings in the way. I’m able to reach in from the wheel well enough to insert that Allen wrench.

 

yeah she aint coming loose.... now what?