more t-stat stuff
06-05-2018, 06:43 PM
#11
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-25-2018
Location: North Central Kansas
Posts: 12
Well, I don't know if that little bit of burping I did to the radiator system did this, but the temp has stayed under 223F. Highway temps are in the 216-218F area and when in town it goes up to 220-222F. When she pulls into the driveway and stops, I can hear the fan running and the temp is at 223F. The fan will stop immediately when the key it turned to the off position. I would think the fan should run a bit longer and cool the engine down more, but it don't.
I did get a AC Delco Thermostat. Only place I could get one here in my small town was at the Chevy dealership. Damm was that expensive.
What is the problem with using the MotoRad or the Stant thermostats? Is it in the materials they use? Or something different in the manufacturing process?
Here is something I found interesting...
MotoRad - made in Israel - On the outside of the box
AC Delco - made in Mexico - On the plastic bag holding the thermostat inside the ACDelco box
Stant - made in USA - stamped into the edge of the thermostat
Your thoughts, perceptions, comments???
I did get a AC Delco Thermostat. Only place I could get one here in my small town was at the Chevy dealership. Damm was that expensive.
What is the problem with using the MotoRad or the Stant thermostats? Is it in the materials they use? Or something different in the manufacturing process?
Here is something I found interesting...
MotoRad - made in Israel - On the outside of the box
AC Delco - made in Mexico - On the plastic bag holding the thermostat inside the ACDelco box
Stant - made in USA - stamped into the edge of the thermostat
Your thoughts, perceptions, comments???
06-05-2018, 07:47 PM
#13
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg,VA
Posts: 25,326
Did you read post #10? It states that only if the temp exceeds 257F the fan will continue to run for 108 seconds after turn off.
Yours is still running hot. There is the possibility that some genius thought that putting a higher temp t-stat in was a good idea, we have heard of Dealers selling 190F t-stats.
Yours is still running hot. There is the possibility that some genius thought that putting a higher temp t-stat in was a good idea, we have heard of Dealers selling 190F t-stats.
06-05-2018, 07:55 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-03-2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 247
The first thing you may want to do is to verify the temps you are seeing.
Try and get a hold of an IR Temperature gun and take readings at both the top and bottom radiator hose to verify those temps.
Because of the "cone" the gun must be held as close to the part as possible.
In S Florida, with the A/C on the most I was getting was 186°, but with the A/C off sitting at a light it would climb to 215°.
This was only because the fan was not on without A/C and turning it back on would drop the temps back down to below 190 within a minute or two.
If the temps you are seeing are real, you may want to flush the system.
Depending on the history of the car, the radiator may be partially clogged. The passages in the aluminum radiators are much narrower than in the old brass rads and clog much easier.
You never know if only distilled water was ever used over the life of the car. If not, that could be your problem. It's hard to determine because the rad cap is not on the radiator itself.
Before everyone jumps in and says that newer cars run hotter, it is true, but I have never read anywhere where the temps you are seeing is normal for one of these cars.
As inexpensive as rads are these days,Iif I was in your shoes would do a serious proper flush and then replace the radiator.
Try and get a hold of an IR Temperature gun and take readings at both the top and bottom radiator hose to verify those temps.
Because of the "cone" the gun must be held as close to the part as possible.
In S Florida, with the A/C on the most I was getting was 186°, but with the A/C off sitting at a light it would climb to 215°.
This was only because the fan was not on without A/C and turning it back on would drop the temps back down to below 190 within a minute or two.
If the temps you are seeing are real, you may want to flush the system.
Depending on the history of the car, the radiator may be partially clogged. The passages in the aluminum radiators are much narrower than in the old brass rads and clog much easier.
You never know if only distilled water was ever used over the life of the car. If not, that could be your problem. It's hard to determine because the rad cap is not on the radiator itself.
Before everyone jumps in and says that newer cars run hotter, it is true, but I have never read anywhere where the temps you are seeing is normal for one of these cars.
As inexpensive as rads are these days,Iif I was in your shoes would do a serious proper flush and then replace the radiator.
06-05-2018, 09:02 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-03-2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 247
It used oxalic acid (wood bleach) and washing soda as a neutralizer. I believe the EPA caused it to be discontinued. If I remember correctly Prestone made it for them and they themselves no longer sell that comparable kit.
A common mistake when doing a flush is to not use it with a new radiator, but with the old one that will be replaced.
Here is a link for a great price with free shipping on a rad. I've probably bought at least 15 from them in the past and never a problem.
Really a flush is for the engine and not the rad at this price.
https://www.sunbeltradiators.com/par...r/2006/22l-l4/
06-05-2018, 09:49 PM
#20
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-25-2018
Location: North Central Kansas
Posts: 12
Greybeard999 - Your statement 'don't open in a manner that the computer is programmed for'. Does that mean the t-stat opens too quickly or too slowly? That would be some interesting programing in that ECU.
Donbrew - Yes, I did read post 10. I also have that same printout on my desk. I forgot to ask if my wife had the ac switched on when she shut the car off. I will get better with my questioning.
oldblue - Yes, I do have a AC Delco t-stat. It came from a Chevrolet dealership. It has ACD#131-158 and GM# 12622410 on the box. About the only thing I can read on the t-stat itself is on the outer rim - 15/154/1/A
tiapetra - i'll look into the IR temp gun thing. I'm still hurting from the dealer cost for the t-stat. I've also been wondering about the radiator possible being clogged with dirt and cottonwood tree 'wool.' Those trees are really putting out the wool right now. Is there a 'how to remove/replace a radiator' posting on this board? If not too bad of a job, I could remove and at least clean the exterior, flushing thru the outside of the core and cover that base while on the adventure of draining the old coolant and replacing the t-stat all on the same day.
Thank you everyone
Donbrew - Yes, I did read post 10. I also have that same printout on my desk. I forgot to ask if my wife had the ac switched on when she shut the car off. I will get better with my questioning.
oldblue - Yes, I do have a AC Delco t-stat. It came from a Chevrolet dealership. It has ACD#131-158 and GM# 12622410 on the box. About the only thing I can read on the t-stat itself is on the outer rim - 15/154/1/A
tiapetra - i'll look into the IR temp gun thing. I'm still hurting from the dealer cost for the t-stat. I've also been wondering about the radiator possible being clogged with dirt and cottonwood tree 'wool.' Those trees are really putting out the wool right now. Is there a 'how to remove/replace a radiator' posting on this board? If not too bad of a job, I could remove and at least clean the exterior, flushing thru the outside of the core and cover that base while on the adventure of draining the old coolant and replacing the t-stat all on the same day.
Thank you everyone